Head Gasket Swap leads to other repairs
11-14-2013, 09:11 PM
#1
Head Gasket Swap leads to other repairs
So Im in the middle of breaking down the top half of my 88 L98, to swap out head gaskets. Amongst servicing the heads, FPR, EGR and Injectors etc etc etc... I figured I would do the timing chain as well since the car has 111k. Do I have to drop the oil pan to swap out the timing chain?
thanks
thanks
11-15-2013, 03:07 AM
#2
Race Director
Yes.
That's not 100% true. It is possible to loosen the pan and drop it down enough in the front to release the timing chain cover. I wouldn't do it that way. You might find this thread of interest:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...placement.html
That's not 100% true. It is possible to loosen the pan and drop it down enough in the front to release the timing chain cover. I wouldn't do it that way. You might find this thread of interest:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...placement.html
11-15-2013, 03:45 AM
#3
Yes.
That's not 100% true. It is possible to loosen the pan and drop it down enough in the front to release the timing chain cover. I wouldn't do it that way. You might find this thread of interest:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...placement.html
That's not 100% true. It is possible to loosen the pan and drop it down enough in the front to release the timing chain cover. I wouldn't do it that way. You might find this thread of interest:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...placement.html
- chances of dropping the pan enough to remove the timing chain cover, and getting the oil pan gasket to reseal are pretty slim, if not next to impossible. I wouldn't do it without dropping the pan and replacing the pan gasket with a 1-piece fel-pro. 
11-15-2013, 08:14 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
It would be worth pulling pan, because debris from headgasket repair can end up in oil pan. The debris sucked up by oil pump and wipes out the bearings shortly after engine is running again....ie..."Man the bottom end wasn't up to your new top end" ain't my fault. With the pan off you can wash all the trash out of the engine. Install heads and wash it down then timing chain oil pan installed last. Also don't use "Buffing pads" on aluminum heads razor blades normally due a fine job.Just my thoughts.
Last edited by Kevova; 11-15-2013 at 08:44 AM. Reason: spelling
11-15-2013, 08:42 AM
#5
Make sense...
So never having worked on a corvette..Can I remove the oil pan without having to deal with cross members or the crankshaft getting in the way?Now come to think of it... if I have to pull the oil pan, I might as well service the oil pump and distributor gear shaft....If this keeps up I might as well just rebuild the whole darn engine lololol.
11-15-2013, 04:52 PM
#6
You might as well swap in a mild cam while you are at it!!
11-16-2013, 09:19 AM
#8
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At 111K miles, (my opinion), I would change the timing chain, too. If it is not already loose, it probably will be soon.
And I agree, I'd put a better cam in.
Rings and bearings may be a good idea, too.
And I agree, I'd put a better cam in.
Rings and bearings may be a good idea, too.
11-16-2013, 11:24 AM
#9
Race Director
Since you are in ther doing the timing chain, you might as well throw in a new cam too 
11-16-2013, 12:09 PM
#10
Safety Car
If you are just doing head gaskets and not doing a valve job just leave the chain go.
If you freshen up the heads then I would do the chain, since it would put more stress on the old chain.
Be happy put the top end back together and leave the chain for another time, it's not like you have to take the heads off again to do a chain if needed.
However If you do decide to drop the pan, put in a new oil pump, when I drop any oil pan I always put in a high volume pump.
If you freshen up the heads then I would do the chain, since it would put more stress on the old chain.
Be happy put the top end back together and leave the chain for another time, it's not like you have to take the heads off again to do a chain if needed.
However If you do decide to drop the pan, put in a new oil pump, when I drop any oil pan I always put in a high volume pump.
11-17-2013, 01:26 AM
#11
Race Director
So never having worked on a corvette..Can I remove the oil pan without having to deal with cross members or the crankshaft getting in the way?Now come to think of it... if I have to pull the oil pan, I might as well service the oil pump and distributor gear shaft....If this keeps up I might as well just rebuild the whole darn engine lololol.
I replaced my timing chain "since I was in there", but I have seen info that said it can easily go 200K miles without replacement. Mine seemed to have some slack in it when I checked it, but the new one was the same.
Last edited by Cliff Harris; 11-17-2013 at 01:29 AM.
11-17-2013, 01:40 AM
#12
Drifting
So as I was removing the headers to get to the lower head bolts....; of the six bolts that hold the down pipes, 4 snapped and 2 came out of the header itself instead of the nut. Which means I might as well upgrade the headers since Im doing the y pipe as the pre cats are cooked...and BTW Looking at the oil pan its all dinged up a sorta flexes to the touch....which means I might as well change to an oem pan when I swap to the high volume pump in order to do the timing chain service and might as well do the cam and rollers since I'm doing the timing chain...since I removed the front accessories to swap out a new water pump since Im doing the Intake, fpr, stat, egr, Iac, and tps and don't forget head gaskets and sending the heads to be squared....cool thing is all can be done for under a $1,500. Gotta love GM products!
11-17-2013, 07:52 AM
#13
Safety Car
Man these cars are dangerous "while I am in there" cars. That $300 head gasket replacement and valve job escalates quick, doesnt it? I was broke (luckily??) when I did mine so the only extra thing I did was replace the leaking water pump.
11-17-2013, 10:14 AM
#14
Le Mans Master
Not big on High Volume oil pumps, many time they can pump pan dry when playing a little hard. Oil can't return to pan fast enough....sometimes leading to "Rattle, Rattle, Boom" Standard volume high pressure pump tends to do better with a stock oil pan. Larger capacity oil pan should be used with high volume pump.
11-17-2013, 11:55 AM
#15
If you just have a bad head gasket and want to save money, I would just stick to the head gasket change. If you have extra money just pull the engine out and do it all at once. A nice cam, some mild porting, new rings, bearings, and a chain. Atleast then you know what you have.
11-17-2013, 01:18 PM
#16
Race Director
Not big on High Volume oil pumps, many time they can pump pan dry when playing a little hard. Oil can't return to pan fast enough....sometimes leading to "Rattle, Rattle, Boom" Standard volume high pressure pump tends to do better with a stock oil pan. Larger capacity oil pan should be used with high volume pump.
11-17-2013, 02:20 PM
#17
Winters coming.
So I too have been figuring whats best to do. So Ive concluded I will do the head gasket swap, Water pump, timing chain, and oil pump. I'm going to hold off on the cam and lifter swap. But I will also do the customary top end services spark, IAC FPR TPS etc. Funny thing is I can get a stock complete L98 for about $300 which is the cost for an head gasket kit and having the heads squared. Looking down the road if the engine in the car goes Id rather do a complete rebuild on a donor engine and start fresh. With the cold months coming up, Im going to spend the winter cleaning parts and gathering new parts. Come spring start putting it all back together. Truth be told Im loving every minute of it!
11-30-2013, 12:01 AM
#18
88 head gasket repair update and cleaning question
While I was removing the two rear lower bolts to both heads on my L98 I noticed that water poured out of the holes from which the bolts came out of. Is this normal for a blown head gasket? It was clear that the right side head gasket was toast and the heads nor block didn't show any signs of being cracked. I'm sending the heads to the machine shop. My question is this though...How best to clean the block so that the resurfaced heads will have a clean block to match up with?
11-30-2013, 01:03 AM
#19
I think while you're in there you should put a mini ram, cam, headers, and performance heads. Get rid of those old ones. If you pull off the oil pan you might as well do a 383 stroker. You have everything apart already!
11-30-2013, 01:05 AM
#20
While I was removing the two rear lower bolts to both heads on my L98 I noticed that water poured out of the holes from which the bolts came out of. Is this normal for a blown head gasket? It was clear that the right side head gasket was toast and the heads nor block didn't show any signs of being cracked. I'm sending the heads to the machine shop. My question is this though...How best to clean the block so that the resurfaced heads will have a clean block to match up with?