Head Gasket Swap leads to other repairs
11-30-2013, 03:35 AM
#21
Race Director
That's normal. The head bolts go into the water jackets. You need to put sealer on the head bolt threads when you install them. I used Aviation Permatex on mine.
11-30-2013, 03:44 AM
#22
Melting Slicks
[QUOTE=Supahone;1585555656]While I was removing the two rear lower bolts to both heads on my L98 I noticed that water poured out of the holes from which the bolts came out of.QUOTE]
Did you drain the cooling system?
Did you drain the cooling system?
12-01-2013, 12:20 AM
#23
I did drain the system, but clearly within the block was remnants of antifreeze. Thanks for the tip regarding the sealant. Do any of those gasket removing sprays work? How best do I prepare the exposed pistons being that the car wont be put back together till the weather gets warmer here in the northeast....would mystery oil help?
12-01-2013, 07:26 PM
#24
Le Mans Master
Most gasket removers work, not necessary scotch brite and razor blades work ok. wheel bearing grease does good for long term delays.WD40 would help displace coolant before lubing cylinders while waiting for better weather. plastic with whatever your have to hold it down over short block.
02-21-2014, 10:50 AM
#25
Update
So Im about two weeks away from starting my head gasket repair on my 1988. The last few parts I need to get is the Head gasket set and replacement bolts for the plenum and intake. Any vendors that have those bolts can you please forward them to me. Also Autozone has a head gasket set #Part Number: felpro HS7733PT-9 has all the the gaskets I need.. but should I also get their heavier duty head gasket felpro 501SD?
thanks for your help.
thanks for your help.
03-05-2014, 10:57 PM
#26
Head Back From Machine shop.
Just got my zz4 heads back from R&L Engines in NH in record time shipped back to my home in three days. They welded on more aluminum then decked the heads. Along those lines...
As I prepare to reinstall these heads should I add any pre gasket material on the block if Im using the Blue Felpro gasket that comes in their complete kit?
As I prepare to reinstall these heads should I add any pre gasket material on the block if Im using the Blue Felpro gasket that comes in their complete kit?
03-17-2014, 12:35 AM
#27
Update.
This past Friday I completed the head gasket and overall tune up on my 88 l98. It took me a week of my vacation to work on it taking my time and I enjoyed every moment of it. It's been a long six months of research and gathering of parts. Actually it's been a perfect way to learn about this car. I chose to run 22lbs injectors. All that is left is to time and set the tps. On that note once I disconnect the signal to the ECM what's the best timing for this car.? Thus far I've gathered its 8degrees? Thanks to all who helped to sort out the cars multiple issues these past months
03-17-2014, 04:04 AM
#29
Race Director
That said, I have heard of many people setting their base advance to 8° or 10° and have never heard of any problems (that doesn't mean there haven't been any...).
03-17-2014, 11:39 AM
#32
Melting Slicks
cam changes fall into one of two categories:
(1) do I want to ? or
(2) do I need to ?
pull your lifters one by one, if the rollers show ANY evidence of wear or damage, then that cam lobe is shot and you fall into category (2);
every thing else, and you're in category (1);
as to timing chains, I can guarantee that the original pin and link chain has stretched and it can be replaced with another similar chain, or for a few bucks more can be replaced with a double "true roller" style of chain which is a substantial upgrade over the OEM chain.
removing the timing chain cover with out disturbing the pan gasket is possible IF, once the damper is removed from the crankshaft, the crankshaft seal is then removed; with the seal removed from the timing chain cover, there will be enough clearance to lift the timing chain cover up and over the pan gasket; reassembly is just the opposite; install the timing chain cover (use some rtv in the bottom channel where it contacts the pan gasket) without the seal; once the cover is installed, THEN install the seal.
(1) do I want to ? or
(2) do I need to ?
pull your lifters one by one, if the rollers show ANY evidence of wear or damage, then that cam lobe is shot and you fall into category (2);
every thing else, and you're in category (1);
as to timing chains, I can guarantee that the original pin and link chain has stretched and it can be replaced with another similar chain, or for a few bucks more can be replaced with a double "true roller" style of chain which is a substantial upgrade over the OEM chain.
removing the timing chain cover with out disturbing the pan gasket is possible IF, once the damper is removed from the crankshaft, the crankshaft seal is then removed; with the seal removed from the timing chain cover, there will be enough clearance to lift the timing chain cover up and over the pan gasket; reassembly is just the opposite; install the timing chain cover (use some rtv in the bottom channel where it contacts the pan gasket) without the seal; once the cover is installed, THEN install the seal.
04-15-2014, 07:36 PM
#34
I am also replacing my head gaskets after doing head work on my 1988 Vette. I have heard that the blue Felpro is the gasket I want -- could someone provide a part number as I have seen more than one Felpro set listed for my L98. Any suggestions on replacing the head bolts, i.e., whether to do so and/or vendors? Finally, any other comments on reassembly. After all this effort taking it apart and then putting it back together, I don't want to overlook something like using the wrong sealer, etc. BTW, I have the FSM but realize that sealers, etc. have changed a lot in 25 years. Thanks for any words of wisdom!
04-16-2014, 01:38 AM
#35
Race Director
I am also replacing my head gaskets after doing head work on my 1988 Vette. I have heard that the blue Felpro is the gasket I want -- could someone provide a part number as I have seen more than one Felpro set listed for my L98. Any suggestions on replacing the head bolts, i.e., whether to do so and/or vendors? Finally, any other comments on reassembly. After all this effort taking it apart and then putting it back together, I don't want to overlook something like using the wrong sealer, etc. BTW, I have the FSM but realize that sealers, etc. have changed a lot in 25 years. Thanks for any words of wisdom!
The FSM does not mention replacing the bolts, so I didn't see any reason to do that. Maybe new ones come with sealer on the threads? Mine were in good shape, but I suppose it's possible that they might be rusted if the coolant leaked into the bolt area.
04-23-2014, 12:13 AM
#37
First drive.
Drove my 88 for the first time and was well worth the wait. Noticed though that when cold takes four key turns before it starts then once warmed up only takes one. Any ideas to improve this?
04-23-2014, 03:56 AM
#38
Team Owner
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: SE NY
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 0
Received 300 Likes
on
274 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
Noticed though that when cold takes four key turns before it starts then once warmed up only takes one. Any ideas to improve this?
04-23-2014, 07:46 PM
#39
04-24-2014, 02:30 AM
#40
Race Director
It gets its power from the ignition switch, but only when it is in the CRANK position. It has a thermal element inside it that heats up and times out after 8 seconds. It will also not work if the coolant temperature is over 95°F.
Because of all this, it's kind of hard to measure voltages unless you have somebody to turn the key while you're making measurements.
You can measure the resistance of the cold start injector. It should measure around 5 ohms. The thermo switch will measure close to zero ohms when it's cold and very high when it's open (it is a switch, so it's either open or closed).