Keeping my '93, need modding advice
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Keeping my '93, need modding advice
Good news, for me, at least. I've decided to not sell my '93. I'm just going to keep it and mod it to my liking.
Anywho, I'd like some advice on the best ways to mod this car. I want to get the best bang for my buck. I don't want to tie up a ton of money, but I do want to make it the best it can. I know it's not going to be free, and I'd like some advice from guys that have done so before me. My goal is to make it stop, handle, and THEN make it go fast(er). It's mainly going to be a street car, but I'm going to occasionally track it (auto-x, drag racing, etc.).
So far my list is;
-Wilwood big brake kit ($2k )
-18" wheels
-Roll cage (not sure)
-Racing seats (under $1k)
-ZFDOC Short throw shifter ($150-ish)
What I've done so far:
-Camber Brace
-X-brace (working on a deal right now )
-Muffler eliminators
What would your suggestions/advice be?
Anywho, I'd like some advice on the best ways to mod this car. I want to get the best bang for my buck. I don't want to tie up a ton of money, but I do want to make it the best it can. I know it's not going to be free, and I'd like some advice from guys that have done so before me. My goal is to make it stop, handle, and THEN make it go fast(er). It's mainly going to be a street car, but I'm going to occasionally track it (auto-x, drag racing, etc.).
So far my list is;
-Wilwood big brake kit ($2k )
-18" wheels
-Roll cage (not sure)
-Racing seats (under $1k)
-ZFDOC Short throw shifter ($150-ish)
What I've done so far:
-Camber Brace
-X-brace (working on a deal right now )
-Muffler eliminators
What would your suggestions/advice be?
Last edited by VeryUnoriginal; 11-14-2013 at 11:54 AM.
#2
As far as handling,
install poly bushings in SOME of the suspension...not everywhere. There are a few guys that can advise on what places to do poly or leave rubber...
Springs and some custom Bilsteins will be 1/2 of what the coil-overs would be.
Upgrade the rear links, especially the rear toe rods...
adjustable upper A arms in the front
weight reduction. That's a judgment call...what you are willing to live without to go a lil faster
TIRES.....spend the money there. If the tires are marginal all the other suspension upgrades are wasted time & money.
Performance,
exhaust system, long tube headers. Heads, intake & cam. All available from people right here. Maybe stroke it unless you have a crate motor under the tree this year.
Then decals (of all the upgrade mfg) , a big mouth air dam and a X-brace underneath. If you REALLY want it to handle.......find a front brace for under the hood. They work GREAT, BUT they make some things underhood a PITA
that's only....10-$15,000 so far.
You keep telling yourself there is a budget and we'll see how long that last !
Once you start these mods....they never end
install poly bushings in SOME of the suspension...not everywhere. There are a few guys that can advise on what places to do poly or leave rubber...
Springs and some custom Bilsteins will be 1/2 of what the coil-overs would be.
Upgrade the rear links, especially the rear toe rods...
adjustable upper A arms in the front
weight reduction. That's a judgment call...what you are willing to live without to go a lil faster
TIRES.....spend the money there. If the tires are marginal all the other suspension upgrades are wasted time & money.
Performance,
exhaust system, long tube headers. Heads, intake & cam. All available from people right here. Maybe stroke it unless you have a crate motor under the tree this year.
Then decals (of all the upgrade mfg) , a big mouth air dam and a X-brace underneath. If you REALLY want it to handle.......find a front brace for under the hood. They work GREAT, BUT they make some things underhood a PITA
that's only....10-$15,000 so far.
You keep telling yourself there is a budget and we'll see how long that last !
Once you start these mods....they never end
#3
Safety Car
Good news, for me, at least. I've decided to not sell my '93. I'm just going to keep it and mod it to my liking.
Anywho, I'd like some advice on the best ways to mod this car. I want to get the best bang for my buck. I don't want to tie up a ton of money, but I do want to make it the best it can. I know it's not going to be free, and I'd like some advice from guys that have done so before me. My goal is to make it stop, handle, and THEN make it go fast(er). It's mainly going to be a street car, but I'm going to occasionally track it (auto-x, drag racing, etc.).
So far my list is;
-Coil-overs ($2k)
-Big brake kit (more than the coil overs)
-Roll cage (not sure)
-Racing seats (under $1k)
-ZFDOC Short throw shifter ($150-ish)
What would your suggestions/advice be?
Anywho, I'd like some advice on the best ways to mod this car. I want to get the best bang for my buck. I don't want to tie up a ton of money, but I do want to make it the best it can. I know it's not going to be free, and I'd like some advice from guys that have done so before me. My goal is to make it stop, handle, and THEN make it go fast(er). It's mainly going to be a street car, but I'm going to occasionally track it (auto-x, drag racing, etc.).
So far my list is;
-Coil-overs ($2k)
-Big brake kit (more than the coil overs)
-Roll cage (not sure)
-Racing seats (under $1k)
-ZFDOC Short throw shifter ($150-ish)
What would your suggestions/advice be?
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
I'm keeping the C4 and modding it. I've driven newer Corvettes and I don't like them nearly as much as my C4.
#6
Burning Brakes
Brakes and suspension will get you a long way. If you are not going to heavily track the car I would not go coilovers or “big brake kit” that a lot of money that you may never see the full benefit of. A good set of sway bars does wonders for the car and is budget friendly. Change the shocks and springs along with bushings. Change the dog bones and camber rods as leesvet said. Consider a set of the DRM camber rod brackets and trailing arm brackets. VB&P is a good vendor along with Doug Rippie; I have used DRM primarily for years and cannot ask for better service! You could go to a set of C5 brakes with an F body master and have a very good track day and street set up for very little money compared to the big brake set ups. The C6Z stuff will be coming down in price also and if swapping to 18’s is an option maybe look at going that route? When you say “Roll cage” what do you mean? If you are driving this car on the street, for safety reasons, I would not do a full cage. You could go with an autopower, kirk, exotic muscle, or Rippie 4 point “rollbar”. Welding this in will help sure up the rear of the car greatly. Racing seats will be a personal preference as to style, and fit. Maybe consider going to a single mass flywheel with c-beam plates when you do your shifter install. There are lots of options think about what direction you want to go and how much real track use you will be doing verses the DD aspect of the car.
-Daniel
-Daniel
#7
I have a 93 also.
1. skip the coil overs and get all new bilistein shocks (unless they have already been updated), made a world of difference on my 93 with 100,000+ miles. Coil overs add more unsprung weight.
2. tires-get some really good, high performance tires.
3. you can do the c4 to c5 brake upgrade for less than 1000, I did it and really like it, you must have a-mold wheels though. Get new rotors for the rear to complete the update and high performance hawk pads.
1. skip the coil overs and get all new bilistein shocks (unless they have already been updated), made a world of difference on my 93 with 100,000+ miles. Coil overs add more unsprung weight.
2. tires-get some really good, high performance tires.
3. you can do the c4 to c5 brake upgrade for less than 1000, I did it and really like it, you must have a-mold wheels though. Get new rotors for the rear to complete the update and high performance hawk pads.
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Brakes and suspension will get you a long way. If you are not going to heavily track the car I would not go coilovers or “big brake kit” that a lot of money that you may never see the full benefit of. A good set of sway bars does wonders for the car and is budget friendly. Change the shocks and springs along with bushings. Change the dog bones and camber rods as leesvet said. Consider a set of the DRM camber rod brackets and trailing arm brackets. VB&P is a good vendor along with Doug Rippie; I have used DRM primarily for years and cannot ask for better service! You could go to a set of C5 brakes with an F body master and have a very good track day and street set up for very little money compared to the big brake set ups. The C6Z stuff will be coming down in price also and if swapping to 18’s is an option maybe look at going that route? When you say “Roll cage” what do you mean? If you are driving this car on the street, for safety reasons, I would not do a full cage. You could go with an autopower, kirk, exotic muscle, or Rippie 4 point “rollbar”. Welding this in will help sure up the rear of the car greatly. Racing seats will be a personal preference as to style, and fit. Maybe consider going to a single mass flywheel with c-beam plates when you do your shifter install. There are lots of options think about what direction you want to go and how much real track use you will be doing verses the DD aspect of the car.
-Daniel
-Daniel
I have a 93 also.
1. skip the coil overs and get all new bilistein shocks (unless they have already been updated), made a world of difference on my 93 with 100,000+ miles. Coil overs add more unsprung weight.
2. tires-get some really good, high performance tires.
3. you can do the c4 to c5 brake upgrade for less than 1000, I did it and really like it, you must have a-mold wheels though. Get new rotors for the rear to complete the update and high performance hawk pads.
1. skip the coil overs and get all new bilistein shocks (unless they have already been updated), made a world of difference on my 93 with 100,000+ miles. Coil overs add more unsprung weight.
2. tires-get some really good, high performance tires.
3. you can do the c4 to c5 brake upgrade for less than 1000, I did it and really like it, you must have a-mold wheels though. Get new rotors for the rear to complete the update and high performance hawk pads.
2. I've got Nitto NT555's on it now, which are doing a pretty good job at the moment. I'll upgrade to NT-05's when I get bigger wheels for brake clearance.
3. I'm moving up to 18's all around or 18's in front/19's in rear. I'm not a big rim guy by ANY means, but if it's necessary for brake clearance I'll do it. I'm probably going to somehow work the Wilwood BB front and rear kit from my Grandfather's C5 into my car. Don't know exactly how that will work, but where there's a will, there's a way.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ramen noodles for the next couple years doesn't sound like a bad thing at all...
#10
Burning Brakes
If you are really looking for handling performance a good adjustable non coil over shock would be my choice. The factory ones are fine but leave you no room to adjust for different track or parking lot conditions. Secondly, if you are going to drive this car at all on the street do not put a full cage in it. Here's why; on the street you and your passengers will not want to wear a helmet...you and your passengers will also not want to be strapped into six point restraints super tight, and at least your passenger will not be fitted up properly into a containment seat... The problem when looking at the above is this; in the event of any kind of accident the human body is now impacting STEEL...the human head versus a roll bar...the head loses 10 out of 10 times.
It's a huge safety issue driving a caged race car on the street. You can take the stand of it won't happen to me and that's your call but I would not.
Also, have you ever had to live and deal with a heavily modified car before? If you have not I would suggest spending some time around someone who does...it isn't what most people think it is and you must remember one thing. As performance goes higher and higher your maintenance time goes higher and higher.... It may look super cool from the outside to fly the old F-14 Tomcat...but for every hour of flight there were 40 man hours of maintenance put into the jet. Now a car won't get that extreme at our level but you will find that the more you mod, the faster the car, the less you will drive it and more you will work on it. Now that seems all too easy and fun in the beginning, but you can probably figure out why my 685hp C3 sits in the garage and the bone stock 93 goes out every nice weekend. Just my .02
It's a huge safety issue driving a caged race car on the street. You can take the stand of it won't happen to me and that's your call but I would not.
Also, have you ever had to live and deal with a heavily modified car before? If you have not I would suggest spending some time around someone who does...it isn't what most people think it is and you must remember one thing. As performance goes higher and higher your maintenance time goes higher and higher.... It may look super cool from the outside to fly the old F-14 Tomcat...but for every hour of flight there were 40 man hours of maintenance put into the jet. Now a car won't get that extreme at our level but you will find that the more you mod, the faster the car, the less you will drive it and more you will work on it. Now that seems all too easy and fun in the beginning, but you can probably figure out why my 685hp C3 sits in the garage and the bone stock 93 goes out every nice weekend. Just my .02
#11
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
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St. Jude Donor '05
The problem when looking at the above is this; in the event of any kind of accident the human body is now impacting STEEL...the human head versus a roll bar...the head loses 10 out of 10 times.
If you must get a 4 pt thats heavily padded and not right up against your noggin
Highway patrol doesnt like cages either depending on your state they can give you grief. Insurance companies, too. Something to consider.
Regardless there will be a 4 pt in my future depending on track times this fall .
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
If you are really looking for handling performance a good adjustable non coil over shock would be my choice. The factory ones are fine but leave you no room to adjust for different track or parking lot conditions. Secondly, if you are going to drive this car at all on the street do not put a full cage in it. Here's why; on the street you and your passengers will not want to wear a helmet...you and your passengers will also not want to be strapped into six point restraints super tight, and at least your passenger will not be fitted up properly into a containment seat... The problem when looking at the above is this; in the event of any kind of accident the human body is now impacting STEEL...the human head versus a roll bar...the head loses 10 out of 10 times.
It's a huge safety issue driving a caged race car on the street. You can take the stand of it won't happen to me and that's your call but I would not.
Also, have you ever had to live and deal with a heavily modified car before? If you have not I would suggest spending some time around someone who does...it isn't what most people think it is and you must remember one thing. As performance goes higher and higher your maintenance time goes higher and higher.... It may look super cool from the outside to fly the old F-14 Tomcat...but for every hour of flight there were 40 man hours of maintenance put into the jet. Now a car won't get that extreme at our level but you will find that the more you mod, the faster the car, the less you will drive it and more you will work on it. Now that seems all too easy and fun in the beginning, but you can probably figure out why my 685hp C3 sits in the garage and the bone stock 93 goes out every nice weekend. Just my .02
It's a huge safety issue driving a caged race car on the street. You can take the stand of it won't happen to me and that's your call but I would not.
Also, have you ever had to live and deal with a heavily modified car before? If you have not I would suggest spending some time around someone who does...it isn't what most people think it is and you must remember one thing. As performance goes higher and higher your maintenance time goes higher and higher.... It may look super cool from the outside to fly the old F-14 Tomcat...but for every hour of flight there were 40 man hours of maintenance put into the jet. Now a car won't get that extreme at our level but you will find that the more you mod, the faster the car, the less you will drive it and more you will work on it. Now that seems all too easy and fun in the beginning, but you can probably figure out why my 685hp C3 sits in the garage and the bone stock 93 goes out every nice weekend. Just my .02
Basically I want a C4 version of Matt's C5:
I want this car to be a mean street car. Not a full blown track car, but not just the stock sorta low miles cream puff it is now. I want to find a happy medium and make it great. I've been around heavily modified cars for a while, and I know how much of a hassle they are. Creature comforts aren't a priority, but I plan to keep as much of the original car intact as possible (interior, creature comforts, etc.). I don't plan on it being anywhere near as comfortable as it is now. When I want comfort, I'll have the Blazer. The Vette is only to make me happy and to give me the biggest perma-grin when I drive it. It's not to make a passenger happy or the Fiancee happy when she rides in it.
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hey guys, I have a friend that's willing to help me out by making a half cage for me. Specifically more like this design; http://www.andysautosport.com/chevro...w00000217.html
Anybody here have any experience with them and what they'll do to the car and what I should expect?
Anybody here have any experience with them and what they'll do to the car and what I should expect?
#14
Burning Brakes
Without spars going out into the engine bay you won't see a huge improvement in chassis rigidity. With that said it will decrease the chance of the pillar folding up on you and allow you to properly anchor your containment seat/restraints. Like I said just keep in mind that you need to keep the bars as far away from your body as you can if you will be using this car on the street (or if you won't be spending big money on a real containment seat). Just my .02
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
Without spars going out into the engine bay you won't see a huge improvement in chassis rigidity. With that said it will decrease the chance of the pillar folding up on you and allow you to properly anchor your containment seat/restraints. Like I said just keep in mind that you need to keep the bars as far away from your body as you can if you will be using this car on the street (or if you won't be spending big money on a real containment seat). Just my .02
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Bought my first mod..
50 Cents on Amazon so I couldn't pass them up. I'm working on getting the half cage made with my friend's dad. I'm also looking for some good seats while I'm at it...
50 Cents on Amazon so I couldn't pass them up. I'm working on getting the half cage made with my friend's dad. I'm also looking for some good seats while I'm at it...
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
I had my local muffler shop make muffler eliminators for me, and I'm in love with the car all over again! It sounds great with only a tiny amount of drone. I'll upload a video tomorrow.
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
http://instagram.com/p/fgH2Qgi_IG/
I had my girlfriend attempt to take the video, and she did pretty good for the first time ever using instagram video. Haha. I'll get a better one this weekend, but it sounds nice and throaty.
I had my girlfriend attempt to take the video, and she did pretty good for the first time ever using instagram video. Haha. I'll get a better one this weekend, but it sounds nice and throaty.