Weatherstrip Glue
09-29-2013, 01:10 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Weatherstrip Glue
I have and recieved my weatherstrip set from Wilcox and am ready to install. (Quality looks nice by the way!!). My question is under which strips was glue origionally used? My present weatherstrips are not origional and I just want to be sure to use it where it was intended.
09-29-2013, 01:13 PM
#2
I just replaced my original stripping and the glue was pretty much under all of them. Most people don't bother using the glue when they install new stripping but I did. I'm hoping that I wont need to do it again.
09-29-2013, 02:37 PM
#3
IF your tracks are perfectly clean, and they should be for the new rubber to fit and SEAL, then you do a DRY fit to test the length so you do not have stretched rubber OR left over at the end of a track...
During the "Dry-Fit" you will see spots that pucker or try to lift off the track...usually at corners or bends. Use glue THERE....sparingly. Very sparingly. DO NOT use the 3M everywhere. There is no benefit to that AND you would want to sell the car before having to deal with that again, KNOWING the glue was in there...
3M is often referred to as "yellow peril". It comes in black now.. Still nasty stuff.
Sometimes where there were screws, there needs to be a spot to help hold the rubber in place.
use a 4 to 6" bondo spreader to press the rubber edges down without breaking the 'skin' on the seal. This is closed cell foam, and that skin is all that's between you and the wet.
The test fit or dry fit is to make sure of position and to learn things BEFORE the glue comes out...'cause once the glue is used, that's where its gonna stay forever.
During the "Dry-Fit" you will see spots that pucker or try to lift off the track...usually at corners or bends. Use glue THERE....sparingly. Very sparingly. DO NOT use the 3M everywhere. There is no benefit to that AND you would want to sell the car before having to deal with that again, KNOWING the glue was in there...
3M is often referred to as "yellow peril". It comes in black now.. Still nasty stuff.
Sometimes where there were screws, there needs to be a spot to help hold the rubber in place.
use a 4 to 6" bondo spreader to press the rubber edges down without breaking the 'skin' on the seal. This is closed cell foam, and that skin is all that's between you and the wet.
The test fit or dry fit is to make sure of position and to learn things BEFORE the glue comes out...'cause once the glue is used, that's where its gonna stay forever.
Last edited by leesvet; 09-29-2013 at 02:42 PM.
09-29-2013, 03:44 PM
#4
Instructor
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I used glue on the doors but not on the windshield or the rear conv cover. I also replaced the wheel well strips at the engine and did not glue them either. No leaks under high pressure test.
10-01-2013, 01:06 AM
#7
Tech Contributor
OP...In general the glue is used on the B-pillar sides, ~2"-3" on either side of the A-pillars/windshield header corners, and the upper corners on the door weatherstripping. There was no glue on the rear window weatherstripping...there is a grease that's used so that the weatherstrip floats. I believe this grease was used across the top of the windshield header on some years.
You will find that Chevy changed what/where glue and grease was applied depending on year, but the above will get you pretty darn close. C4 weatherstripping has always been an issue. I think GM treated it as a long term science experiment rather than redesigning it.
10-01-2013, 03:05 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
IF your tracks are perfectly clean, and they should be for the new rubber to fit and SEAL, then you do a DRY fit to test the length so you do not have stretched rubber OR left over at the end of a track...
During the "Dry-Fit" you will see spots that pucker or try to lift off the track...usually at corners or bends. Use glue THERE....sparingly. Very sparingly. DO NOT use the 3M everywhere. There is no benefit to that AND you would want to sell the car before having to deal with that again, KNOWING the glue was in there...
3M is often referred to as "yellow peril". It comes in black now.. Still nasty stuff.
Sometimes where there were screws, there needs to be a spot to help hold the rubber in place.
use a 4 to 6" bondo spreader to press the rubber edges down without breaking the 'skin' on the seal. This is closed cell foam, and that skin is all that's between you and the wet.
The test fit or dry fit is to make sure of position and to learn things BEFORE the glue comes out...'cause once the glue is used, that's where its gonna stay forever.
During the "Dry-Fit" you will see spots that pucker or try to lift off the track...usually at corners or bends. Use glue THERE....sparingly. Very sparingly. DO NOT use the 3M everywhere. There is no benefit to that AND you would want to sell the car before having to deal with that again, KNOWING the glue was in there...
3M is often referred to as "yellow peril". It comes in black now.. Still nasty stuff.
Sometimes where there were screws, there needs to be a spot to help hold the rubber in place.
use a 4 to 6" bondo spreader to press the rubber edges down without breaking the 'skin' on the seal. This is closed cell foam, and that skin is all that's between you and the wet.
The test fit or dry fit is to make sure of position and to learn things BEFORE the glue comes out...'cause once the glue is used, that's where its gonna stay forever.
