redvett22

i was wondering how much work and or replacement parts would be needed to switch out a zf 6 speed to the 4l60e auto transmission. just seeing what my options are for either rebuilding the zf or if its not too tuff to put in the auto I would go that rout as I do the weekend drag racing and a auto might be a little better for my application. don't want to sell of the car for a different one . and if it would be a simple replacement of transmissions or is there a lot of modifying.

383vett

I swapped out my 4+3 and am now running a 4l60e. Great for bracket racing because of it's consistancy. Put it in drive, hit the go pedal and watch your opponent and the stripe. I did my conversion by myself in my garage.

redvett22

was it just a bolt in type of deal or was there any fab. work you had to do. great pic by the way. what size slicks are you running

Irishpilot03

Okay, I'm going to be that guy who asks, "why?!?" First off, only 40% of C4 Vettes were 6-speeds to begin with. The ZF6 is a great trans that can take a fair amount of beating in stock form (much more so than a T5 or even T56, IMHO). Yes, they are German engineered and are expensive to rebuild, but they are a lot of fun. I just got finished building a 700r4 for my '55 and that was big bucks and I did it myself (I built it for 500 hp with upgraded internals ).

My point is, if you have big power in your Vette (and I mean over 460 hp), you can't just simply throw in a 4L60E. You would be on borrowed time. To even find a suitable core, you will pay around $400-600 and then it needs to be built to handle the power. That means new friction plates and steels, upgraded sunshell, Transgo shift kit, a 2500+ stall, etc. If you pay someone to do the rebuild, you are looking at a few thousand, plus all the headache of making stuff fit. My guess is the price of rebuilding the ZF6 would be pretty close.

On a closing note, if you are planning on more racing, I highly suggest changing gears once you decide on a trans. I recommend 4.11s for the manual and 3.73s for auto.

I hope this sheds some light on some issues with trans swaps. Best of luck in whatever you choose!

383vett

Pretty much a bolt in. You have to get the shifter parts and you will need a transmission controller. I did not have to hack, chop or glass. I'm running 11.5x15x29 MT et drags.



If the op plans on doing some serious drag racing, it's much easier on parts and much more consistant with an auto. I raced for years with a manual but the auto was the answer for the brackets. I am now running a Rossler 4l60e with a 4.35 rear.

redvett22

383vett did you have to change the drive shaft or will the one I have work. thanks again on the info not sure what rout im going to take yet, either way im keeping the zf and maby have it rebuild down the road.

Sleazy Rider

did this to an 89' 6-speed years ago for dragging. easiest conversion ever and the 6-speed tunnel is so large you could almost throw the auto up there and bolt it together. since then we've gone back to the 6-speed. we purchased a 94' this spring that the po had converted from the auto to 6-speed and all the components related to the auto were there. pedal/cable/shifter/console top/drive shaft/cbeam.

383vett

I started with an 84 4+3 which had the dana 36. Switched to a 44 and used the manual-44 driveshaft. Then swapped to the auto. I don't remember what driveshaft was necessary since that was decades age, but I still have used them all. Someone will chime in with the correct answer.

Sleazy Rider

use your same drive shaft and c-beam. need to get an automatic -drive shaft coupling as the 6-speed is larger diameter. the reason for the two lengths drive shaft/c-beam is a difference between the d36 and d44 housings.

redvett22

Thanks to all or your inputs and advice great info sounds like I have a good winter project either way.