Primary fan control by ECM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Primary fan control by ECM
L98 in a 58 vette w/no A/C and no speed sensor. C1 of the ECM provides ground to the primary fan (I am using two aftermarket fans). 12 VDC to B8 of the ECM emulates the A/C being turned on which should ground C1 and turn on the fan. Is that correct or am I missing something? Also the stock fans shut down at 35 MPH if temp is under control. Is that because the fans actually restrict airflow above 35 MPH?
#2
Drifting
L98 in a 58 vette w/no A/C and no speed sensor. C1 of the ECM provides ground to the primary fan (I am using two aftermarket fans). 12 VDC to B8 of the ECM emulates the A/C being turned on which should ground C1 and turn on the fan. Is that correct or am I missing something? Also the stock fans shut down at 35 MPH if temp is under control. Is that because the fans actually restrict airflow above 35 MPH?
http://www.chevythunder.com/fuel%20i...ts.htm#1986-89 pinouts (ecm #1227165)
A VSS circuit should be used, and is really quite simple to hook up. See here:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/SpeedSensors_Order.html
You need the first one for a 7165 ECM, and it screws on to your speedometer output. Keep these wires away from other ignition wires as much as possible.
You should consider having a competent programmer redo what you have to optimize your vehicle.
#4
Le Mans Master
#5
There are well documented problems resulting from no VSS input
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/di...-cell-4-a.html
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/po...162-post2.html
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
First, if you're using pin C1 you must have a 1227165 ECM? Pin C1 is the primary fan relay only, and does not turn of at 35 mph like the later model speed density units do. Pin B8 sends a signal to the ECM that says AC has been turned on, so add 50 rpm to idle to make up for an additional load.
http://www.chevythunder.com/fuel%20i...ts.htm#1986-89 pinouts (ecm #1227165)
A VSS circuit should be used, and is really quite simple to hook up. See here:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/SpeedSensors_Order.html
You need the first one for a 7165 ECM, and it screws on to your speedometer output. Keep these wires away from other ignition wires as much as possible.
You should consider having a competent programmer redo what you have to optimize your vehicle.
http://www.chevythunder.com/fuel%20i...ts.htm#1986-89 pinouts (ecm #1227165)
A VSS circuit should be used, and is really quite simple to hook up. See here:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/SpeedSensors_Order.html
You need the first one for a 7165 ECM, and it screws on to your speedometer output. Keep these wires away from other ignition wires as much as possible.
You should consider having a competent programmer redo what you have to optimize your vehicle.
#7
Burning Brakes
While I'm waiting for a VSS to arrive and install I'm still thinking my ECM is kaput. I'm not getting ground on C1 when B8 is getting 12 VDC. Switching the 12 VDC on and off causes the idle speed to change as it should. Is there anything I'm missing to get C1 grounded?
#8
Drifting
What BCC (broadcast code) are you using? IE: ARAP? In a stock memcal the fans won't be called for until 108 C or 226 F. GM manuals show 228 F, but the programming and my conversion says otherwise. Are you not getting a ground signal after it reaches this temp? This can be lowered if you like. Call me at (775) 530-5892 if you'd like to discuss.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Correct I'm not getting ground at C1 when the engine is up to temp - even when applying 12VDC to pin B8. I'm reading 2.5 volts out of the temp sensor at the front of the intake. I don't have a scan tool but from what I understand that voltage is higher than normal at operating temp.
#11
#13
Do you have the numbers reversed ?
CTS resistance (Ohms) should be reducing at the temp rises
http://www.chevythunder.com/cts_diagnostics.htm
CTS resistance (Ohms) should be reducing at the temp rises
http://www.chevythunder.com/cts_diagnostics.htm
#14
Race Director
I like this chart from the FSM (simple):
The only temperatures you really care about are cold and hot, which would be somewhere around 70° and somewhere around 200° (depending on your thermostat and how good your cooling system is).
You can remove the connector on the CTS and simulate the extremes: open = -40°. Shorted = 300°F.
The only temperatures you really care about are cold and hot, which would be somewhere around 70° and somewhere around 200° (depending on your thermostat and how good your cooling system is).
You can remove the connector on the CTS and simulate the extremes: open = -40°. Shorted = 300°F.
Last edited by Cliff Harris; 08-29-2013 at 02:31 AM. Reason: Clarified CTS temperature extremes.
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter