Scary knocking
#1
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Scary knocking
I just got my vette on the road today after replacing both head gaskets. I went for a little cruise earlier and it ran fine for a while then it started running rough so I eased back home being careful and watching gauges. I opened the hood and noticed #1  cylinders plug wires were loose so I put them on and it runs fine BUT! When idling there is a noticeable knock that wasn't there earlier, it sounds like it is coming from the crank shaft pulley area, I have good oil pressure too. I'm afraid this might no be something good... Any help is much appreciated.
Andrew
Andrew
#2
Burning Brakes
I just got my vette on the road today after replacing both head gaskets. I went for a little cruise earlier and it ran fine for a while then it started running rough so I eased back home being careful and watching gauges. I opened the hood and noticed #1 cylinders plug wires were loose so I put them on and it runs fine BUT! When idling there is a noticeable knock that wasn't there earlier, it sounds like it is coming from the crank shaft pulley area, I have good oil pressure too. I'm afraid this might no be something good... Any help is much appreciated.
Andrew
Andrew
#4
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Found what is most likely the issue, one bent pushrod and one pushrod laying in the oil valley both on the passenger side... Starting to get depressed with this car I can't catch a break with it
#5
Safety Car
Everybody makes mistakes, don't worry about it, make the repair and move on, if every mechanic gave up after a mistake there would be none left in the business.
All that happened is when you put it together, you stuck the pushrod in and instead of landing on the lifter it went next to it.
The next time you won't make a mistake like that, it just go's with the busted knuckles and dirty fingernails after a job.
All that happened is when you put it together, you stuck the pushrod in and instead of landing on the lifter it went next to it.
The next time you won't make a mistake like that, it just go's with the busted knuckles and dirty fingernails after a job.
#7
Melting Slicks
Did you keep track of the pushrods when the heads were off,, did you set the Valve lifter pre load correctly? what was done to the heads?
#8
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Kept exact track of the push rods when the were off top to bottom and each valve, set the preload correctly, nothing was done to the heads except some basic cleaning for reinstall, I'm getting ready to price pushrods lol
#9
Tech Contributor
As you are finding out, there's a bit more to fixing/rebuilding engines than just spinning a few wrenches. You need to get two things before you do anything else...
- Factory Service Manual. It is the best $100 (used) - $150 (new) you can spend
- You need the following book (click on the pic for a link to Summit):
With the above two items, you can learn everything you need to know about working on these cars.
- Factory Service Manual. It is the best $100 (used) - $150 (new) you can spend
- You need the following book (click on the pic for a link to Summit):
With the above two items, you can learn everything you need to know about working on these cars.
#11
Tech Contributor
In essence, the LT1 is a 60+ year old design, tracing most of its key heritage to the Gen 1 SBC. For instance, setting valve lash on all but the LT4 has been pretty much unchanged forever. Based on your posts, trials, and tribulations, a little extra command media might be helpful....even if you just view it as a refresher.
#12
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True, I figured the lt1 couldn't be too different from the gen1 sbc I just rebuilt the 350 in my '71 chevelle with no issues. Are the stock pushrods 7.200 in length? 5/16 diameter?
#13
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Just an update and to say thanks for the help, got some new pushrods in it this morning and with some careful preloading she runs great, thanks for all the help!