What oil do you use and how many miles do you have
#23
96 lt1, 5w30 mobile one synthetic. Changed religiously every 3000 miles (daily driver year round) Opti spark leaked at 103k miles. Just changed that out so leak is gone up front. Now to deal with the transmission output shaft seal.
#24
Melting Slicks
Mobil 1 5w30 full synthetic and M1-102 filter
Changed every year or 7500 miles, whichever came first
106000 miles
This info according to previous owner, one of those honest good old boys, and the engine runs and sounds fantastic -- no ticking or knocking or problems of any kind.
Not sure about the Valvoline engine guarantee, haven't heard of anyone bothering to keep the records required by the program let alone actually trying to cash in on a new engine (or repair of damage due to oil-related failure). But I suppose any modern engine oil could guarantee that an engine will run for a certain number of miles if it's changed regularly. Heck, some engines have gone 300k miles running only store-brand petroleum engine oil -- Flag, O'Reilly, etc. -- so long as it has the API donut and starburst symbols on the bottle. The key is regular maintenance.
Changed every year or 7500 miles, whichever came first
106000 miles
This info according to previous owner, one of those honest good old boys, and the engine runs and sounds fantastic -- no ticking or knocking or problems of any kind.
Not sure about the Valvoline engine guarantee, haven't heard of anyone bothering to keep the records required by the program let alone actually trying to cash in on a new engine (or repair of damage due to oil-related failure). But I suppose any modern engine oil could guarantee that an engine will run for a certain number of miles if it's changed regularly. Heck, some engines have gone 300k miles running only store-brand petroleum engine oil -- Flag, O'Reilly, etc. -- so long as it has the API donut and starburst symbols on the bottle. The key is regular maintenance.
#26
Mobil 1 10w-30 in the 96 Vette(73000) and the 2004 Ram 1500! changed every 3000 miles religiously!!! Never any leaks caused by oil! Intake is leaking on the car but not the oils fault!!!
#27
Drifting
Castrol 20W-50 K&N filter. Filter is IMPORTANT. No $4 Fram ! Change every 2000 miles. I run this thicker oil in the summer due to my oil temps running as high as 260 degrees. I can't find thicker synthetic. Not one store carries it. Besides the owner of the shop who rebuilt my motor said it doesnt matter synthetic or regular oil just change it !!!!
#28
Team Owner
Castrol 20W-50 K&N filter. Filter is IMPORTANT. No $4 Fram ! Change every 2000 miles. I run this thicker oil in the summer due to my oil temps running as high as 260 degrees. I can't find thicker synthetic. Not one store carries it. Besides the owner of the shop who rebuilt my motor said it doesnt matter synthetic or regular oil just change it !!!!
#29
Drifting
I totally agree ! However ny oil temps climb to 260 degrees on HOT days. I feel 20W-50 is a better choice under those conditions. All I can find at Walmart or Autozone is 5W-30 or 10-30 Mobil 1
#30
Le Mans Master
The heavier 20/50's in hot climates may be good for the Gen I L98 cars, but for those with the LTx cars I don't think it would be a good idea. The clearances and tolerances are alot tighter in these engines, not to mention the roller lifters. It just seems if the oil is too thick you'd be risking oil starvation at the crank and lifters.
#31
Team Owner
I still think the best test for whether the oil is worth is is with an analysis. That way, you are not throwing oil out that can go further or using oil longer than it should.
#32
Drifting
The heavier 20/50's in hot climates may be good for the Gen I L98 cars, but for those with the LTx cars I don't think it would be a good idea. The clearances and tolerances are alot tighter in these engines, not to mention the roller lifters. It just seems if the oil is too thick you'd be risking oil starvation at the crank and lifters.
#33
Safety Car
I use 20W50 full synthetic in mine...have for the entire life of the car. My "race motor" has over 45k on it, and it's strong. No oil blow by in the valve train or past the rings.
One of our club members has an old 70's Impala wagon he uses to tow to events. It has over 300k miles on the original block. It's had 2 head rebuilds...for guides/seals and putting hardened seats so it could run unleaded fuel. Last time I saw him fooling with it he had the pan off and was checking the bearings...they still looked fresh.
In Stillwater at the Mercury Marine plant they used to have an LT5 test engine on display cut up...they had the equivalent of 300k miles on the dyno with it, and the bearings showed ZERO wear. You could still see the cross hatches in the liners from the honing.
Synthetic is THE way to go if your seals are up to it...as long as they don't leak it out, use it.
One of our club members has an old 70's Impala wagon he uses to tow to events. It has over 300k miles on the original block. It's had 2 head rebuilds...for guides/seals and putting hardened seats so it could run unleaded fuel. Last time I saw him fooling with it he had the pan off and was checking the bearings...they still looked fresh.
In Stillwater at the Mercury Marine plant they used to have an LT5 test engine on display cut up...they had the equivalent of 300k miles on the dyno with it, and the bearings showed ZERO wear. You could still see the cross hatches in the liners from the honing.
Synthetic is THE way to go if your seals are up to it...as long as they don't leak it out, use it.
Last edited by 1991Z07; 07-23-2013 at 05:05 PM.
#34
Safety Car
The heavier 20/50's in hot climates may be good for the Gen I L98 cars, but for those with the LTx cars I don't think it would be a good idea. The clearances and tolerances are alot tighter in these engines, not to mention the roller lifters. It just seems if the oil is too thick you'd be risking oil starvation at the crank and lifters.