Impala Balko

alright I am at the last end of my project which is swapping out the rubber lines for braided stainless ones. My question is does anyone have any tricks on how to remove the rubber lines from the steel ones. I am putting a 12mm wrench on them and when I turn it the bolt doesnt loosen and it almost feels like its going to round off the nut. is there a special tool and procedure for getting these brake lines off

Muffin

First use a Flare wrench, that is one made or hydraulic fittings. Second, P B Blaster or similar plus time and patience. When I did mine i was forced to resort to some heat, as nervous as a fluffy tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs, but it got the job done.

WVZR-1

You need 6-point flare-nut wrenches to do this effectively! You might also find it beneficial to hold the brake hose hex to steady it. The OE hose is indexed with locating tabs to the frame bracket. These might be 16mm.

A search for flare nut wrench will yield many, many results. You might just find it very beneficial to buy a set.

Since you're not rushed, soak everything down today, again in the AM and tackle the removal later that evening. I wouldn't think heat should be required.

Churchkey

The flare nut may be rusted to the steel line.

What I do: If the rubber line is still attached to the caliper cut it. Remove the hose retaining clip at the frame bracket. Push the fitting down & unscrew the rubber line from the fitting. Normally heat will free the flare nut & allow it to turn = good to go.
In severe cases of rusted flare nut & you do not want to change the hard line attach the hose to the hard line & tighten then screw the caliper on the hose.

Impala Balko

I guess I will have to go to the tool store and get some hydraulic wrenched and some PB Blast... all I have is WD40

QZRBLU

A full set of flare-nut wrenches should do the trick. WD-40 is NOT a lubricant OR a good penetrant. Liquid wrench is almost as good as PB blaster at 1/3 the cost. A mixture of ATF /Acetone works great too.

Impala Balko

I used PB blast and a wrench for disconnecting hydraulic lines and it still feels like its not budging... plus its starting to round off a couple of them.... what can I do to get the ones out that have started rounding off and can I replace the ends once I finally have them disconnected

93 ragtop

Quote:

Originally Posted by Churchkey

The flare nut may be rusted to the steel line.

What I do: If the rubber line is still attached to the caliper cut it. Remove the hose retaining clip at the frame bracket. Push the fitting down & unscrew the rubber line from the fitting. Normally heat will free the flare nut & allow it to turn = good to go.
In severe cases of rusted flare nut & you do not want to change the hard line attach the hose to the hard line & tighten then screw the caliper on the hose.

This will keep from twisting the steel line. Hold the steel line nut stationary and turn the rubber line fitting.

WVZR-1

It sounds like you tried to accomplish all of this in a matter of minutes. Look back at my post and see where I mentioned soak, soak again next day and THEN later disassemble. If you've nearly rounded them off you're down to the procedure "Churchkey" mentions. It's quite effective and your only alternative presently. I maybe needed to pay closer attention to your location.

Hindsight and maybe a lesson for others is to soak all of this down days in advance of disassembly. You've had your suspension apart for quite some time, this all needed to have been or could have been planned in advance.

How many have you ruined?

93 ragtop

And if you have rounded the nut, lock on it with vise grips. Again, do not turn the nut, turn the hose assy.

Impala Balko

I let it sit for about an hour... they aren't completely rounded however but the fronts have started to round off.... I will soak them even over night and see what happens tomorrow.... is there a way I can get a new flare nut on there one I do get it apart

QZRBLU

Not unless you replace that section of steel line. Sorry.

Impala Balko

I can't cut the flare off buy a new bolt and re-flare it

WVZR-1

NO - I'd say your well beyond that. Do the "vise grips" and turn the hose procedure and hope for the best. You do still need to soak the he!! out of the nut before the attempt.

Impala Balko

so then how am I supposed to bolt it back up with visegrips?.... I can't replace these bolts with new ones without redoing the lines

QZRBLU

If you can find the correct flare nut (not a bolt) and have the proper flaring tool (single? double?) then you 'could' replace the damaged nut.
Replacing that section of steel line might be easier and more bulletproof.

93 ragtop

[QUOTE=Impala Balko;1584293668]so then how am I supposed to bolt it back up with visegrips?.... I can't replace these bolts with new ones without redoing the lines[/QUOTE]

Once you get the hose assy off of the nut usually you can work them loose from the pipe. The problem is the nut seizes to the pipe and will not turn. But yes, if it was mine, I would reuse the old nut by re attaching it with vise grips.

Edit to say, double flare on steel is not easy to do. That being said, after cutting the old nut off, you would need at least 1.5 to 2 in. of straight pipe to lock the flaring tool on with the new nut and re flare

WVZR-1

The flares are "bubble" NOT inverted or double and I can't imagine the OP can save enough of the tube to accomplish a good bubble flare. It might be possible for a talented person to go further on the tube and create something to work but it would require someone that was very confident and capable.

Cunifer alloy tubing forms very easily and would be a much better repair doing the complete section of tube from the ABS to the wheel. Bubble flares are quite easy with an inexpensive bar type flaring tool but I believe I'd like to have it done with a later hydraulic flaring device after it was formed. The OP would need metric "bubble" nuts also.

QZRBLU

Thanks WV,
Learn something every day!

Impala Balko

I guess I will re attach the old line with vicegrips once I get them apart