84 won't shift into 3rd or overdrive. What did I do?
06-26-2013, 08:27 AM
#1
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84 won't shift into 3rd or overdrive. What did I do?
Yesterday on the way home, about a mile from my driveway, I had a little Honda Civic riding my bumper, so in defense of America I floored it, left him of course, coasted down turned on my roadand pulled right into my driveway without speeding back up and shut if off.
This morning I get in it to go to work, and it won't shift. It will shift from 1st to 2nd but not go into 2nd OD will not go into 3rd and won't go into 3rd OD. But here's the kicker. It's still SOMEWHAT going into OD. Like I could speed up to 55 in 2nd and let off and it would coast as it was in nuetral, but if I moved the shifter out of OD into D it would downshift all the way to second. I had to get to work so I limped in and the longer I went the more it seemed to want to slip before shifting from first to second. Did I fry it? Please say no
This morning I get in it to go to work, and it won't shift. It will shift from 1st to 2nd but not go into 2nd OD will not go into 3rd and won't go into 3rd OD. But here's the kicker. It's still SOMEWHAT going into OD. Like I could speed up to 55 in 2nd and let off and it would coast as it was in nuetral, but if I moved the shifter out of OD into D it would downshift all the way to second. I had to get to work so I limped in and the longer I went the more it seemed to want to slip before shifting from first to second. Did I fry it? Please say no
06-26-2013, 11:35 AM
#2
Yesterday on the way home, about a mile from my driveway, I had a little Honda Civic riding my bumper, so in defense of America I floored it, left him of course, coasted down turned on my roadand pulled right into my driveway without speeding back up and shut if off.
This morning I get in it to go to work, and it won't shift. It will shift from 1st to 2nd but not go into 2nd OD will not go into 3rd and won't go into 3rd OD. But here's the kicker. It's still SOMEWHAT going into OD. Like I could speed up to 55 in 2nd and let off and it would coast as it was in nuetral, but if I moved the shifter out of OD into D it would downshift all the way to second. I had to get to work so I limped in and the longer I went the more it seemed to want to slip before shifting from first to second. Did I fry it? Please say no
This morning I get in it to go to work, and it won't shift. It will shift from 1st to 2nd but not go into 2nd OD will not go into 3rd and won't go into 3rd OD. But here's the kicker. It's still SOMEWHAT going into OD. Like I could speed up to 55 in 2nd and let off and it would coast as it was in nuetral, but if I moved the shifter out of OD into D it would downshift all the way to second. I had to get to work so I limped in and the longer I went the more it seemed to want to slip before shifting from first to second. Did I fry it? Please say no
06-26-2013, 11:43 AM
#3
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06-26-2013, 12:41 PM
#4
It's possible that a clutch pack could have gone. It's also possible that you may be low on fluid. I don't have much experience with Automatic Transmissions, since I only had time to take a Manual Transmissions class. But I got part of the A/T class. But another thing is is that you could have a bad shift solenoid.
I would take it to a transmission shop and see what they think.
Sorry man, but this is why I don't like automatics, too many problems. :p
I would take it to a transmission shop and see what they think.
Sorry man, but this is why I don't like automatics, too many problems. :p
06-26-2013, 12:52 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
It's possible that a clutch pack could have gone. It's also possible that you may be low on fluid. I don't have much experience with Automatic Transmissions, since I only had time to take a Manual Transmissions class. But I got part of the A/T class. But another thing is is that you could have a bad shift solenoid.
I would take it to a transmission shop and see what they think.
Sorry man, but this is why I don't like automatics, too many problems. :p
I would take it to a transmission shop and see what they think.
Sorry man, but this is why I don't like automatics, too many problems. :p
06-26-2013, 01:55 PM
#6
There are no shift solenoids in a 700R4, shifting is controlled by the hydraulic governor located in the tailshaft housing. The only electrical solenoid in the valve body controls torque converter lockup. Since the trans does upshift from first to second, I doubt the governor is at fault.
Some of us did finish the class and pass the test.
Some of us did finish the class and pass the test.
06-26-2013, 02:16 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
There are no shift solenoids in a 700R4, shifting is controlled by the hydraulic governor located in the tailshaft housing. The only electrical solenoid in the valve body controls torque converter lockup. Since the trans does upshift from first to second, I doubt the governor is at fault.
Some of us did finish the class and pass the test.
Some of us did finish the class and pass the test.
06-27-2013, 09:26 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Okay guys, one more question... What's a fair price? I got two guys saying $1500 with a new torque converter and going from 6 to 14 clutches(?) Another saying $950 plus hard parts if needed with 12/12k warranty. I'm in Central Fl, anyone know where I can find a deal? What's this job worth?
06-27-2013, 10:41 AM
#10
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My suggestion is to find a complete trans purchase. There are a number of nationally reputable trans suppliers that will cost a bit more but well worth the cost. I tried the overhaul route and spent more money (2300) than buying a performance tranny (1700) outright. The biggest plus is that the performance trannys are runup on a trans dyno that programs the governor and valve body correctly.
The warranty will be better and you have your old trans to salvage the speedometer drive gear.
Others will chime in with vendor recommendations soon.
The warranty will be better and you have your old trans to salvage the speedometer drive gear.
Others will chime in with vendor recommendations soon.
06-27-2013, 11:13 AM
#11
Race Director
The transmission Gods are punishing you for even attempting to put a way a Honda Civic.
06-27-2013, 01:15 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
My suggestion is to find a complete trans purchase. There are a number of nationally reputable trans suppliers that will cost a bit more but well worth the cost. I tried the overhaul route and spent more money (2300) than buying a performance tranny (1700) outright. The biggest plus is that the performance trannys are runup on a trans dyno that programs the governor and valve body correctly.
The warranty will be better and you have your old trans to salvage the speedometer drive gear.
Others will chime in with vendor recommendations soon.
The warranty will be better and you have your old trans to salvage the speedometer drive gear.
Others will chime in with vendor recommendations soon.
06-27-2013, 01:16 PM
#13
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07-07-2013, 10:54 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Around here, I can get one rebuilt for around $600, and I always R&R it myself. If they do it all, should be around $1200. If you do an exchange, make sure you get your Corvette governor, a regular is different.
I would rebuild your original to keep numbers matching.
shawn
I would rebuild your original to keep numbers matching.
shawn
07-08-2013, 03:17 AM
#15
Race Director
Try adjusting the TV cable first, but it sounds like a trans rebuild is in your near future.
I know this is for a L98, but it should give you the idea:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1583935895-post4.html
I know this is for a L98, but it should give you the idea:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1583935895-post4.html
07-08-2013, 08:49 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
I got it all done for $950 including tow and glad I did. I asked the mechanic about a shift kit or aftermarket rebuild kit, he said he'd be happy to get me one, but the corvette rebuild kit it pretty "aggressive" (his terms) So I went with that. I didn't realize how bad it was slipping before 3/4 clutch pack went out on me. It's like a whole new car now. I had come to terms with the fact that this car would never be my old 5.0, now with the motor tuned up and this new transmission, this thing would dust that old Stang. All buyer remorse is gone 
09-28-2013, 04:49 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
I drive both, the civic auto has had a transmission problem for three years (hard shift first to second) it throws a code once in a while but clears eventually. Mechanic says it will fall out one day, I'm waiting it out, 250K on the odometer (kilometers) 150k mikes!I lent my 88 Vert to my son(26 yrs old) trying to be a nice dad! that will be the last time he drives it!!!!!!!!!! Took it out this morning and it won't shift out of first. I'm pissed!!!!!!!!!
Don't know where to start?
John