Lucky86

When starting my 86 in the morning, it cranks for 5 seconds then starts, so i was worried about leaky injectors washing the cyc walls. BUT.....even after driving it for 15 min,then shutting it down and restarting it within 30 seconds after driving, it still cranks for 5 sec then starts. IF my injectors were leaking that bad , wouldnt i have a rough idle due to very bad mist pattern from the injectors?

Aqualoo

Definitely sounds like it has to build pressure in the rail before it can fire. Rent a fuel pressure gauge from autozone and check fuel pressure at idle then with the vacuum line off the FPR. Should be somewhere around 30-35psi at idle and 40+ with vacuum line off(correct me if I'm wrong anyone). Then shut the car off and leave the gauge on and see if the rail maintains pressure. If it doesn't, turn your ignition back on to pressurize the rail again, pinch the return line, then shut it back off. If it maintains pressure then it's the FPR that has failed. Also check for fuel in the vacuum line of the FPR as that is a tell tale sign of a failed regulator. If the pressure still drops after the last test it's either a leaking injector or failing fuel pump.

davewhtt

Aqualoo is right on. I just went through this. Hard starting but ran fine after. I checked my FPR for gas or the smell of gas,it seemed clear. I got injectors from Jon@ FIC and also replaced the FPR.It starts right up everytime now. The FPR can be bad with no gas in line. Since then ive replaced fuel pump and sock,that made a difference also. Mine is a 93. Dave

Lucky86

Is the fpr ,whats holds pressure in the rail, sorta like a check valve? My big concern was a leaky injector, because im afraid of washing the cyl down.

davewhtt

Yes it maintains fuel pressure. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge turn on the key check your pressure around 40 then shut off key and see if it holds. Mine didnt hold dropped down fast. I had white smoke when it started ran like it was flooded for a few secounds till it cleared. Im no expert on fuel injectors but i changed mine out and because i was doing this and had rails off and the fuel pressure regulator is cheap i did that to.Cost under 200$ for the injectors from FIC and he will answer e mails if you have any questions.I learned from doing and my forum brothers!

edobernig

First I thought I had a cold start valve issue, so I sent the cold start valve along with all 8 injector to FIC for a refurbishment, flow and leak tests. FIC told me they were performing perfectly now and did not need replacement. Along with a fuel filter and a tune-up of plugs, cap, rotor and wires it ran like it was supercharged. Performance and throttle response is spectacular.

I still would have starting issues particularly when warm. Cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body and I replaced some inexpensive sensors: coolant temperature and O2. The fuel pressure would build to 40 psi then quickly drop within a minute or two to 6 psi. When running it would maintain about 39 psi. To further test the fuel pump and isolate the leak I needed to find the fuel pump lines where they could be pinched off.

Got great help from the a forum member. To access the fuel pressure and return lines, you remove the gas tank lid and the panel under it which exposes the filler neck and fuel pump mounting panel. The top hose on the right with two hose clamps is the supply and the lower right hose is the return.

It was obvious that the fuel regulator was not leaking into the vacuum line, because when the vacuum line was removed and the system pressurized no fuel leaked out of the vacuum fitting on the regulator. (So I thought)

Pressurized system and clamped supply hose above the tank and pressure held so no leaking injectors or cold start valve.. Removed clamp pressure dropped immediately indicating bad fuel pump.

Replaced the fuel pump. Very simple to do by removing 8 bolts around filler neck and entire unit just lifts right out. Installed new pump in minutes. Also replaced the strainer and fuel filter. The system now holds pressure after cycling.

This solved my problems. I thought!

Then after the system was now holding pressure, it started great but after a long period it was again requiring a long crank, but restarting after a short period no problem. Now I smelled a slight gas odor under the hood. When I removed the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line I found it wet with gas and gas now weeping out of the regulator. It was not obvious and did not occur immediately after removing the vacuum line.

The now 40 psi static pressure, that was now holding after shut- down, was very slowly bleeding gas past the regulator diaphragm into the vacuum line and allowed it to be be sucked down the vacuum line. Since my primary pressure loss was from the bad fuel pump, it masked the slow leaking fuel pressure regulator diaphragm.

I am very confident that multiple issues were contributing to my starting problem. The replacement diaphragm is on order and now this should fix the starting issue!

j-wireman

Great advice here. You would be wise to use it.

My situation: One of the injectors stuck open. The pressure on the system caused raw gas to run down the cylinder walls and fill the block with a gas and oil mixture. It was hydro-locked. Drained it all out, let it air out for 3 days, filled it up with 10 quarts of cheap oil, let it set a couple of days, drained and filled with good oil (5 qts.), ran it for about two minutes (to get any remaining gas out of any bearing surfaces), drained and refilled again (each time with a new filter, too).

It was a scary situation, but, I've got the cleanest motor around. LOL