How much is a 383 crate start to finish?
#2
Instructor
There are a lot of variables that would affect costs.
The first question is, what are you going to do with this engine?
What I mean is it a cruiser, a low speed autocrosser, High Speed Autocrosser/HPDE's, Wheel to Wheel Competition, Drag Racer, or Top Speed Events (Bonneville or Silver State Classic for examples)
I have one that is set up to be durable for cruising with some Road Course Track Day Events in mind. My shift point is set for 6000 RPM.
Upgrading the EFI with a Mini Ram, using the 113 heads that flow 185 CFM. Upping the compression ratio to 10.5:1. Bored .030 over to have 355 CUI. Dyno on combination came out to be 424 HP with 497 ft/lbs. of Torque.
The bill for me having a professional engine Builder $ 5,500.00. Includes all of the machine work and balancing done to it
Add the cost of a 383 Stroker kit, and the heads you wish to use to my bill.
If you go to carb; add for new hood, intake, and carb to the above.
I hope that helps to get you in a ball park fiqure.
The first question is, what are you going to do with this engine?
What I mean is it a cruiser, a low speed autocrosser, High Speed Autocrosser/HPDE's, Wheel to Wheel Competition, Drag Racer, or Top Speed Events (Bonneville or Silver State Classic for examples)
I have one that is set up to be durable for cruising with some Road Course Track Day Events in mind. My shift point is set for 6000 RPM.
Upgrading the EFI with a Mini Ram, using the 113 heads that flow 185 CFM. Upping the compression ratio to 10.5:1. Bored .030 over to have 355 CUI. Dyno on combination came out to be 424 HP with 497 ft/lbs. of Torque.
The bill for me having a professional engine Builder $ 5,500.00. Includes all of the machine work and balancing done to it
Add the cost of a 383 Stroker kit, and the heads you wish to use to my bill.
If you go to carb; add for new hood, intake, and carb to the above.
I hope that helps to get you in a ball park fiqure.
#3
Tech Contributor
Like the poster above said, there are too many variables to make a blanket statement. Plenty of low buck $3k 383s have been built. In my '96, the bill for parts and machine work was $10k. That netted me a bullet proof engine that would run all day between 4500 and 6500rpm on road courses and it produced >500hp. If you have to pay for the labor, add another $2k for a reputable shop to remove the old engine, assemble the new one, and install it.
You need to figure out usage...street, 1/4 mile, road courses, standing mile, etc...then figure out desired power levels and the rpm range. Now ask yourself "Fast, cheap, or reliable?" and pick any two. Next go shopping for parts and add up the bills to figure out if it's in your budget.
If you have a dollar amount you want to spend, you can work the equation in reverse.
#4
Racer
From experience, I would say more expensive than you will budget. The odds and ends plus the unexpected costs will add up. When the others are asking about usage, they are seeing if you need a cast or forged crank, cast, hypertectic or forged pistons, etc. What compression, what heads, full roller rockers or stock stamped? It really never ends. Here is my recommendation based off of three driving types:
1. Weekend driver with more power - cast stroker rebuild - 1k-1,500
2. Hot street engine - cast crank, hyper pistons (moderate cam and reworked heads)- 3-5k
3. High compression, boost or lots of racing - forged stroker rebuild - 5-15k
Good luck!
1. Weekend driver with more power - cast stroker rebuild - 1k-1,500
2. Hot street engine - cast crank, hyper pistons (moderate cam and reworked heads)- 3-5k
3. High compression, boost or lots of racing - forged stroker rebuild - 5-15k
Good luck!
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Athens AL
Posts: 59,673
Received 1,404 Likes
on
1,019 Posts
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
My 398 probably ran up to 12K with the parts, build, shipping, installation.
I decided a long time ago that if you were going to do this, better do it right from the ground up and not have to replace a $1500 build again in a couple years. Now I can beat on the engine without excessive worry.
I decided a long time ago that if you were going to do this, better do it right from the ground up and not have to replace a $1500 build again in a couple years. Now I can beat on the engine without excessive worry.
#6
Tech Contributor
From experience, I would say more expensive than you will budget. The odds and ends plus the unexpected costs will add up. When the others are asking about usage, they are seeing if you need a cast or forged crank, cast, hypertectic or forged pistons, etc. What compression, what heads, full roller rockers or stock stamped? It really never ends. Here is my recommendation based off of three driving types:
1. Weekend driver with more power - cast stroker rebuild - 1k-1,500
2. Hot street engine - cast crank, hyper pistons (moderate cam and reworked heads)- 3-5k
3. High compression, boost or lots of racing - forged stroker rebuild - 5-15k
Good luck!
1. Weekend driver with more power - cast stroker rebuild - 1k-1,500
2. Hot street engine - cast crank, hyper pistons (moderate cam and reworked heads)- 3-5k
3. High compression, boost or lots of racing - forged stroker rebuild - 5-15k
Good luck!