scorp508

I've run primarily Mobil 1 5W30 oil in my car since I got it. I've noticed that sine the rebuild that the car loses oil pressure above 5000 RPM in 1st and 2nd gear when the acceleration is very hard unless I run about 3/4 qt extra. The car never saw over 5000 before, so it was never noticed. The pressure would get down to 18psi and then jump right back up to the 50s as soon as I saw it and let off the gas.

I'm assuming the oil is just too watery and is thrown around too easily and cannot be scavanged back into the pan quick enough.

So.....

Last night I changed over to 10W30. I figured any added parasitic loss is so minimal at this stage of the game, and it probably is better for the ole 169,960 mile gal' anyways.

A few WOT blasts in 1st and 2nd up to 6000 with a 5 quart fill showed no loss of pressure anymore. We'll be sticking with this! :cheers:

lampedusa

Good call, I dunno if I'd have thought of that...nice going.

Frank Zeman

5/30 and 10/30 should be different only at the cold start condition. The 5 of course will be thinner at that time. Once up to normal temperatures, they should both be the same.

scorp508

Agreed, but the 5 seemed noticeably thinner even pouring straight out of the bottle. Also this is that new Mobil super-syn whatever it is junk, maybe the new stuff runs a little more.

J Z06

That is all that has been used in mine since I broke in the engine. Seems to work well.

Glad to hear it helped you out.

cajun86

I would think you might be sucking the pan almost dry at high RPM's and the additional 3/4 quart helped that situation.

GlockLT4

Now ya need 15w50 :jester . My pressure is usually around 50psi now (any oil temp). Idle is about 25psi when hot, 45-55psi when cold. It definitely holds pressure with higher rpm's. I haven't run 5w30 in my car, ever. 10w30 in the new engine is too thin. It would only have 45-50psi as high as i revved it. That's ok according to GM, but not to me!


[Modified by Glock'94, 12:20 PM 6/20/2002]

65Z01

I too can't get into a full engine rebuild just now, so I just switched to a 10W40 blend from 5W30 full synthetic.

I'm still struggling with the smoking issue at the top end of the strip and thought it might help. I don't realy beat on it so much except at the strip so thought it would be fine for summer and stip use.

James94LT1

This is what I run in the summer!

Bender

It sure would be nice if you could get a bigger oil pan on it. Even an additional quart would go a long way. Does such a thing exist that wouldn’t sit clear down to the ground?

GlockLT4

You can get a 7qt. Canteen pan... or a 9qt too i think.

scorp508

They do, I wonder what sort of header clearance issues there are.

GlockLT4

Good question... I'll get Chris Houston to reply.. he has the Canton 7qt pan.

SPD DMN

There is zero clearance issues with the Canton pan. The only issue you have is installing the pan with the motor in. It can be done, but is more tricky than installing the stock one because of the different designs in the front pan. The front of the stock pan is rounded whereas the Canton is squared off. I had to use an engine hoist and jack the engine up a litttle to get it on and off with the engine in the bay. Once the pan is one, everything has plenty of room to breathe.

I have my car on jackstands right now doing a cam swap. I will try and remember to take a picture tonight when I try and finish up the work. Should show how well it really fits.

The Canton pan is a good idea for anyone that revs their motor up. Especially for extended periods. A stock pan for extended 4000 rpm plus is just asking for a spun bearing (especially in an LT1 which are real bad for this).

SPD DMN

FWIW, I run either 10w30 or 10w40 whatever I pick up that day.

I have a Melling high volume high pressure pump and my oil pressure never goes below 40 after it is fully warmed up and generally stays above 65 or pegged when at higher rpms. I would never use this pump without the Canton pan.

Chris

SPD DMN

Took a couple of pics tonight...
http://www.xtremecorvettes.com/image...learance_1.jpg
http://www.xtremecorvettes.com/image...learance_2.jpg


[Modified by Vette92, 3:00 AM 6/28/2002]

0ski_dwn_it

That is what I run in mine. Never had a problem. Except the hole in my timing cover that allowed oil to freely spill out! :lol:

Alex D

Your oil pressure problem is not a viscosity issue. You may be scavenging at high rpm or actually start sucking air . Did you correctly position the pick-up tube in the rebuild? I have also seen the pickup tube fall out of the pump if it wasn't pressed in right. It should be soldered/welded/brazed in anyway.....you have a bigger problem than oil viscosity !!

Black87c4

10W30 :yesnod:

GlockLT4

That thing looks weird on there, hehe :jester