Dana 44 builders please

[C4vettrn]

I am rebuilding my new D44 and so far I have acheived what I believe to be the best pattern I will get with used gears. The cost side hits from the toe to the middle and is a little below center. The drive side goes from heel to toe and again is a little lower than center. Backlash is at .008. What you think ???????? My big question is I don't have the correct spreader for the case but believe I can achieve the proper main bearing preload by adding .010 to a "snug" setup ??????????????????? Also does anyone locktite the main bearing cap bolts? Diff fluid? I have reed that Redline or Roya lPurple 78-140W are used by most builders on hear. I can get Royal Purple or Lucas Synthetic local both 75-140W. The Lucas is $7 a bottle cheaper? Also do you all add limited slip additive even if the oil has it already in it? Please share your wisdom. This is my first D44 build. I have reuild one other rear end and learn mostly by reading and aking questions.

[rklessdriver]

Your pattern and B/L sound OK for a used gear.

Be double sure of your pinion brg pre-load (shims or crush sleeve if it's that type of gear).

Personally I don't try to get the case spread more than "pretty snug" with the ring gear carrier... .005 extra on both sides of the ring gear carrier is crap load... If right now your requiring a firm shove or rubber/plastic dead blow hammer to get the ring gear carrier/posi back in the case and a pry bar to get it out (cold) your fine.... Alum expands when it gets hot - so it will get tighter as you drive.

If the ring gear carrier just falls in the housing that's another story and .005 on each side is probally a good starting point.

The Lucas 75-140 is good gear dope. You do not need to add any additional posi additive.... doing so is not good for the clutches in a high preformance application.

No - locktite on the brg cap bolts.

Yes - locktite on the ring gear bolts.
Will

[C4vettrn]

Thanks's Will!
What do you use for pinion preload? FSM says 30 in. lbs. and Yukon manual say's 16-20 for new bearings. That seems like a big difference?
What is to much backlash for the street? My pattern actually looks a little better with .013 but the FSM say's .006-.009 and YUKON
.008-.010 so I thought I should lower it some. I assume once the bearings settle the backlash would increase a hair?

Randy

[rklessdriver]

Originally Posted by C4vettrn

Thanks's Will!
What do you use for pinion preload? FSM says 30 in. lbs. and Yukon manual say's 16-20 for new bearings. That seems like a big difference?
What is to much backlash for the street? My pattern actually looks a little better with .013 but the FSM say's .006-.009 and YUKON
.008-.010 so I thought I should lower it some. I assume once the bearings settle the backlash would increase a hair?

Randy

It depends on what type of pinion you have.... All the Yukon gears I have set up in D44HD's are the crush sleeve style pinion and they are 16-20 inch LBS....

The factory gear is a shim type and they can probably get away with more (30inch LBS) initial pre load on the pinion brg because the flat shims will grow less with heat (than a tubular crush sleeve).

The D44HD has a very tight B/L spec IMO... I set my personal Yukon 4.11 in my 92 up at .008 (you want tight B/L for drag racing with a stick shift) and it howls a little bit on deceleration once it's hot driving on the hwy...

If I were setting a gear up for a milder car I would probably set B/L up towards the looser end of the spec... but that also depends on how long I screwed around with pressing/pulling those carrier brgs to get the pattern and then B/L anywhere in the spec...
Will

[C4vettrn]

OK I have the gears dialed in and am ready to install stub axles. The FSM says .0001 min. to .0085 max end play. What is desirable less or more end play? I only have the c-clips that came out of it and the set from YUKON .85 & .90 but can order another if needed. Is there anything wrong with reusing the old C-clips?

Side note: This rearend had a broke a c-clip at one time. I found the parts when I opened it up. They replaced the C-clip but never bothered to take out the broken pieces What usualy causes a broken C-clip?

THANKS!

[Glenno]

Following

[rklessdriver]

Originally Posted by C4vettrn

OK I have the gears dialed in and am ready to install stub axles. The FSM says .0001 min. to .0085 max end play. What is desirable less or more end play? I only have the c-clips that came out of it and the set from YUKON .85 & .90 but can order another if needed. Is there anything wrong with reusing the old C-clips?

Side note: This rearend had a broke a c-clip at one time. I found the parts when I opened it up. They replaced the C-clip but never bothered to take out the broken pieces What usualy causes a broken C-clip?

THANKS!

Nothing wrong with reusing the C clips, if they get the end play where you want it to be.

The less end play the better....

As far as what can break C clips. You can damage them during installation and then they fail... You can also put undo stress on them by having no end play and then they fail.
Will

[C4vettrn]

Is there a GM or Dana part number for the snap rings on the stub axles. Did some measuring today and it looks like .085 will work on the ring side but I need a .090 on the long axle. YUKON kit only came with PINK or .085's. Does anyone have a .090 for sale or trade for a new
085 ? THANKS!

Randy

[rklessdriver]

Originally Posted by C4vettrn

Is there a GM or Dana part number for the snap rings on the stub axles. Did some measuring today and it looks like .085 will work on the ring side but I need a .090 on the long axle. YUKON kit only came with PINK or .085's. Does anyone have a .090 for sale or trade for a new
085 ? THANKS!

Randy

I buy mine from Toms Differentials. Bottom of Page 27

http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/201...Pages25-28.pdf

Will