1989 Corvette 2 Questions
#1
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor'13
1989 Corvette 2 Questions
I am in the process of restoring my 1989 corvette and have done almost all interior and engine work and it looks great on the inside and runs great also thanks to the help of everyone on the corvette forum.
I have bought a new steering wheel for my 1989 corvette and I can borrow a friends steering wheel puller and I know it is probably not that hard of a job to do. If anyone can explain to me how to pull it that would be great and how to put it back on to make it lined up right would be great also. Just some more information since mine is a 1989 is does not have any airbag items to worry about.
I have also had an anti-lock lock on since I got the car the previous owner said that he had it checked out and it was a bad sensor but did not know which one it was, which I believe is true since the brakes work fine and I have had no issues with them at all. How would I fix this and are there any steps I can take to diagnose which sensor is bad?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks, Stephen
EDIT: Do I have to remove the locking plate for any reason when pulling the steering wheel and replacing with a new one of the same exact original style steering wheel? Do I even have to mess with the locking plate at all?
I have bought a new steering wheel for my 1989 corvette and I can borrow a friends steering wheel puller and I know it is probably not that hard of a job to do. If anyone can explain to me how to pull it that would be great and how to put it back on to make it lined up right would be great also. Just some more information since mine is a 1989 is does not have any airbag items to worry about.
I have also had an anti-lock lock on since I got the car the previous owner said that he had it checked out and it was a bad sensor but did not know which one it was, which I believe is true since the brakes work fine and I have had no issues with them at all. How would I fix this and are there any steps I can take to diagnose which sensor is bad?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks, Stephen
EDIT: Do I have to remove the locking plate for any reason when pulling the steering wheel and replacing with a new one of the same exact original style steering wheel? Do I even have to mess with the locking plate at all?
Last edited by Red89'-L98; 01-02-2013 at 11:58 AM.
#2
Burning Brakes
As for the steering wheel I don't remember all of the steps but it is fairly simple. Pop the horn cap off and you will see the nut that has to be removed and where to put the puller. Remember the order that the tele-steering system goes so that when you put it back together it goes in right.
You can check for resistance at each wheel sensor. Disconnect it and use your DVM to check for resistance. If you get no sisgnal then you have found the problem.
Sometimes with the wheels it can also be in the wheel bearing. If you don't find a problem at the sensor then it is possible that there is some play in the wheel.
If you do a search there are a few good sites for diagnosing the problems with the ABS on those. I just can't remember then off hand.
Good luck.
You can check for resistance at each wheel sensor. Disconnect it and use your DVM to check for resistance. If you get no sisgnal then you have found the problem.
Sometimes with the wheels it can also be in the wheel bearing. If you don't find a problem at the sensor then it is possible that there is some play in the wheel.
If you do a search there are a few good sites for diagnosing the problems with the ABS on those. I just can't remember then off hand.
Good luck.
#3
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor'13
As for the steering wheel I don't remember all of the steps but it is fairly simple. Pop the horn cap off and you will see the nut that has to be removed and where to put the puller. Remember the order that the tele-steering system goes so that when you put it back together it goes in right.
You can check for resistance at each wheel sensor. Disconnect it and use your DVM to check for resistance. If you get no sisgnal then you have found the problem.
Sometimes with the wheels it can also be in the wheel bearing. If you don't find a problem at the sensor then it is possible that there is some play in the wheel.
If you do a search there are a few good sites for diagnosing the problems with the ABS on those. I just can't remember then off hand.
Good luck.
You can check for resistance at each wheel sensor. Disconnect it and use your DVM to check for resistance. If you get no sisgnal then you have found the problem.
Sometimes with the wheels it can also be in the wheel bearing. If you don't find a problem at the sensor then it is possible that there is some play in the wheel.
If you do a search there are a few good sites for diagnosing the problems with the ABS on those. I just can't remember then off hand.
Good luck.
#4
regarding the wheel puller...yes.
the puller presses against the steering shaft to lift the wheel up and off.
It grabs the wheel and from there you screw the puller in/on the shaft.
The abs sensors are more challenging. These are sometimes hard to find and you have to find the exact sensor for that wheel. They are not made anymore. You have to figure which you need then search e-bay for the right sensor. Some folks have had luck at porche and mercedes finding the parts for C4 abs since Bosch used the same system on those 2 german cars... I think caddy from the 80s had the same thing.
the puller presses against the steering shaft to lift the wheel up and off.
It grabs the wheel and from there you screw the puller in/on the shaft.
The abs sensors are more challenging. These are sometimes hard to find and you have to find the exact sensor for that wheel. They are not made anymore. You have to figure which you need then search e-bay for the right sensor. Some folks have had luck at porche and mercedes finding the parts for C4 abs since Bosch used the same system on those 2 german cars... I think caddy from the 80s had the same thing.
#5
Here's a very good "how to" for the early "tilt/travel" column:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...a-1989-c4.html
Bolt length etc is included!
#6
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor'13
Not just a single bolt but not much more than!
Here's a very good "how to" for the early "tilt/travel" column:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...a-1989-c4.html
Bolt length etc is included!
Here's a very good "how to" for the early "tilt/travel" column:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...a-1989-c4.html
Bolt length etc is included!
Ok, now here is the question. What all screws do I need to remove? I know for sure the 2 phillips head screws on the star screw need to come off and the star screw. How do I get the star screw off, is it phillips head also?
Are there any more bolts that need to come off or is it just those 3 and the snap ring? Also it says to remove the steering wheel retainer nut and I can not see it or tell what it looks like. Is it the triangle looking thing?
Then when I attach the puller, where exactly does it attach to?
Thanks for all the help, Stephen
#7
Thank you for showing me this, I used the sear feature but must not have typed in the right words.
Ok, now here is the question. What all screws do I need to remove? I know for sure the 2 phillips head screws on the star screw need to come off and the star screw. How do I get the star screw off, is it phillips head also?
Are there any more bolts that need to come off or is it just those 3 and the snap ring? Also it says to remove the steering wheel retainer nut and I can not see it or tell what it looks like. Is it the triangle looking thing?
Then when I attach the puller, where exactly does it attach to?
Thanks for all the help, Stephen
Ok, now here is the question. What all screws do I need to remove? I know for sure the 2 phillips head screws on the star screw need to come off and the star screw. How do I get the star screw off, is it phillips head also?
Are there any more bolts that need to come off or is it just those 3 and the snap ring? Also it says to remove the steering wheel retainer nut and I can not see it or tell what it looks like. Is it the triangle looking thing?
Then when I attach the puller, where exactly does it attach to?
Thanks for all the help, Stephen
#8
Burning Brakes
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Ok, and is it indexed with a line on it, and if so what does it line up with so I know how to index it correctly.
One last thing, where does the puller bolt into, the 2 bolts right above and below the steering wheel retainer nut or does it go into the 3rd bolt hole to the left of the bottom bolt hole also?
Thanks again, Stephen
Last edited by Red89'-L98; 01-01-2013 at 07:48 PM.
#9
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor'13
Do I have to remove the locking plate for any reason when pulling the steering wheel and replacing with a new one of the same exact original style steering wheel? Do I even have to mess with the locking plate at all?
~Stephen
~Stephen
#10
No - you're not going that far. Use the SNAPSHOTS AS A GUIDE!
#11
Instructor
If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.
Haha, makes sense. I am guessing the "triangular thing" comes off after the snap ring right?
Ok, and is it indexed with a line on it, and if so what does it line up with so I know how to index it correctly.
One last thing, where does the puller bolt into, the 2 bolts right above and below the steering wheel retainer nut or does it go into the 3rd bolt hole to the left of the bottom bolt hole also?
Ok, and is it indexed with a line on it, and if so what does it line up with so I know how to index it correctly.
One last thing, where does the puller bolt into, the 2 bolts right above and below the steering wheel retainer nut or does it go into the 3rd bolt hole to the left of the bottom bolt hole also?
You can see in the photo, though small, that the tip of the shaft has a notch in it (12 o'clock position). The steering wheel will have a similar mark that you will see after you remove the nut.
Yes, you'll use the holes at 12 and 6.
Last edited by TTA579; 01-02-2013 at 01:37 PM.
#12
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor'13
Author of the How-To here. The job will be pretty straight forward. You'll only be going through steps 1-4, and then backwards 4-1. No need to touch the lock plate (and I wouldn't suggest it without a spare lock ring retainer on hand).
If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.
The "triangle thing" is the snap ring. You'll want snap ring pliers.
You can see in the photo, though small, that the tip of the shaft has a notch in it (12 o'clock position). The steering wheel will have a similar mark that you will see after you remove the nut.
Yes, you'll use the holes at 12 and 6.
If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.
The "triangle thing" is the snap ring. You'll want snap ring pliers.
You can see in the photo, though small, that the tip of the shaft has a notch in it (12 o'clock position). The steering wheel will have a similar mark that you will see after you remove the nut.
Yes, you'll use the holes at 12 and 6.
Thanks to everyone for the help, Stephen
#15
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#16
Burning Brakes
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I might be interested in doing that if it is cheap until when I feel like getting the actual manual.
#17
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My favorite advantage is that I can search the manual for keywords. That makes it easier to search for me. As you saw in my post I can copy images and print any section I need a hard copy of.
#18
Burning Brakes
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The CD can be had on ebay for a very reasonable price (I've purchased the full manual and supplement for my TTA, I know what they can cost).
My favorite advantage is that I can search the manual for keywords. That makes it easier to search for me. As you saw in my post I can copy images and print any section I need a hard copy of.
My favorite advantage is that I can search the manual for keywords. That makes it easier to search for me. As you saw in my post I can copy images and print any section I need a hard copy of.