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harmonic balancer install question

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Old 12-21-2012, 01:01 PM
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The Plastic Lizard
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Default harmonic balancer install question

how close to the timing cover should the flywheel of the harmonic balancer be?

conversly, how far on the crankshaft? end of crank shaft flush with end of balancer?

I am using the proper tool from advance auto and it was going on fine, then bam...hard as a rock. I can't turn it without a TON of force. and I'm afraid of stripping out crankshaft.

so looking for some guidence.
Old 12-21-2012, 01:09 PM
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TorchRedlt4man
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Harmonic balancer should be installed until the balancer stops.

I believe you might have the balancer on far enough.

The balancer butts right up to the crank gear.
Old 12-21-2012, 01:13 PM
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The Plastic Lizard
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but how do you know if it's butted up....or you just don't have enough torque to get on?

I think I have about a quarter inch between the outside of the damper and the end of the crankshaft.

I weigh 180lbs and have a 12in tool....that didn't sound right....12 in wrench. but I can't tell if it's just "stuck" or in place.
Old 12-21-2012, 01:17 PM
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How can you see that you have 1/4" before contacting the crankshaft?
Old 12-21-2012, 01:28 PM
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The Plastic Lizard
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Originally Posted by TorchRedlt4man
How can you see that you have 1/4" before contacting the crankshaft?
removing the install tool and looking in. thats from the front of the car looking to the end of the crankshaft
Old 12-21-2012, 01:50 PM
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Then based on what you are saying, I would say you still need to go that last 1/4".

The damper should positively butt up against the end of the crank gear.

If you want to, you could also use a 2X4 piece of wood with a hammer. A couple of really good whacks would move the damper the rest of the way.
Old 12-21-2012, 02:19 PM
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The Plastic Lizard
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I would say mine looks just like this...
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sbc-...ll-131203.html
Old 12-21-2012, 03:01 PM
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Vett1990
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[QUOTE=The Plastic Lizard;1582625832]how close to the timing cover should the flywheel of the harmonic balancer be?

conversly, how far on the crankshaft? end of crank shaft flush with end of balancer?

I am using the proper tool from advance auto and it was going on fine, then bam...hard as a rock. I can't turn it without a TON of force. and I'm afraid of stripping out crankshaft.

so looking for some guidence.

The proper torque spec on that dampener (balancer) is 60 ft-lbs, if it takes more then that to get the dampener seated in the proper position, you may have other issues that you need to address. Is this the original dampener or after market (size difference)? Gouges on the crankshaft or internal bore of the dampener. And leave the hammer in the tool box.
Old 12-21-2012, 07:10 PM
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Hey! A hammer, used in the correct way, is fine!

Why do you think they have so many types and they sell so many?

I did not say to use a 5lb sledge.

A little nudge with a piece of wood laid across the damper might work.

Although, taking the damper off now would probably be a better thing to do.

There must be a burr of some sort which is stopping the progress.

Upon further deliberation...................

The keyway might not be parallel to the centerline of the crankshaft. That would definitely stop the installation.
Old 12-21-2012, 08:05 PM
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l98tpi
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When you knock the rubber seal loose from the balancer and then your your crank vibrates and you spin a bearing, you will then learn why there are some applications that don't call for the use of a hammer. Why don't you get a pulley install tool and do it right?
Old 12-21-2012, 09:43 PM
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Ok guys, stay on target....stay on target.....

I'm going to have to just install the pulley and water pump and see if they line up.

Then if not pull the balancer off and start again
Old 12-22-2012, 02:28 AM
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FWIW and considering what's at stake, I'd pull the dampener and using a piece of welding rod or something similar, record the length of the crank snout from the crank gear face to the end and record the length of the dampener tunnel. Those will tell you when you've butted up to the gear.

Check your key like someone said, for alignment and even-depth.
Old 12-22-2012, 02:47 AM
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I use a longer bolt with the thick flat washer first, also i put some wd40 on the balancer before fitting it, then put the correct bolt in to get the balancer home all the way. Just hold your crank pulley up against the balancer and see how it lines up with the water pump pulley.
Old 12-22-2012, 02:41 PM
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what year engine? I only ask because on a 96 the reluctor ring could dislodge from the shoulder of the key that it sits on, and then there would be all sorts of mischief to pay.

by the way I agree, if the balancer stopped suddenly; its probably on.
Old 12-22-2012, 05:04 PM
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Just closing the loop ...it was on all the way.

Look at the picture in post 7. That's what it looked like when stopped. I confirmed this by installing the water pump and everything lined up perfectly. I strongly suggest getting the install tool from the auto parts store. It doesn't cost anything at the stores here to borrow the tool for a couple days.

Thanks to all and Merry Christmas.
Old 12-22-2012, 07:52 PM
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l98tpi
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Originally Posted by The Plastic Lizard
I strongly suggest getting the install tool from the auto parts store. It doesn't cost anything at the stores here to borrow the tool for a couple days.

Thanks to all and Merry Christmas.

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