conv90

In order to do the rebuild to my L98 (1990 stock convertible automatic transm), I’m searching on the net some supplier with all parts I need.
Parts will be :
Scat Crank, srp flat top pistons or Silvolite KB flat w/4 valve relief, eagle or scat rods ( … bushed pin type), clevite 77 bearings…….
I ‘have some doubt about oil pump, water pump, gaskets, heads bolt and timing chain/Sprocket.
Timing chain:
On all catalogs I searched, all timing chain are with the addiction : “ not for factory roller cam”
I know my block (638 casting) is a roller block. Is it a roller block because lifters are with roller tip??? This means that my engine is with roller cam?? So, if I say: “Lifters with roller tip” I can say “ Roller camshaft”?
All catalogs (Summitracing …) have so many water pumps and oil pumps:
Water pump:
Wich kind of water pump I need? A generic short style small block chevy is good?
Oil pump: a generic oil pump for small block chevy with welded pickup is good?
I need also a set of 16 valve guides……impossible to find it (for aluminium heads).
Help me!!
Thanks Beppe.

Rich B.

Yes (although I don't have one). The roller cam will also have a "step" in the 1st bearing journal, to accomodate the retainer plate used on OEM roller cams.

Not to be confused with "roller rockers", which are completely different.

I believe I've read here that the roller cam timing gear/chain sets are thinner than non-roller sets...But I can't say for sure...

Check Scorp's buildup posts; I think he may have mentioned it...

lcvette

as stated above.. just a quick blurb.. If your not familiar.. the Keith Black pistons are great for daily driven commuter vehicles, but if your planning on making some power you may want to consider some other options... the SRP forgings are better.. JE, Ross, etc... I'm sure money is a deciding factor as with most of us.. but the pistons take the brunt.. and if you ever decide to try nitrous you can do so with more security knowing your not using a hypereutectic piston which is super saturated with silicon to add scuff and expansion resisitance, but degredates fail point inegrity significantly under high cylinder pressures. just some opinionated advice.. but wasn't sure what you intentions were.. if you have any specific questions feel free to email me!

Best Regards,
Chris

conv90

My rebuild is a 'stock like rebuild' ....
I found the culprit of my spun bearings. (6 of 8 !!)
Ther'is a oil filter adapter (I think it is a oil filter adapter.... is a circular plate approx 2" diameter with a spring valve in it). This valve (I don't know why..) was open allowing NO pressure of oil :mad :cry :cry :cry :cry :cry
This plate has stamped GM 3952302. I need one of this also....
Thanks
Beppe

scorp508

Rich is correct (as usual). The first journal has a step in it. You can see the plate installed over the cam in one of my pictures. I'll have to find it.

conv90

Scorp, I'll thank you.

scorp508

I looked through the pictures, and it appears the only one I had taken already has the timing gear installed. Sorry. :(

Rich B.

Didn't you have a pic of your old cam lying on the ground??? I thought I saved it, but I can't find it...One of the "Teardown" posts, maybe???

gcrouse

Get the SRP pistons if you can afford them!

You definitely need a timing set designed for "factory roller cam." They're harder to find but I think Tru-Roller and Edelbrock make them.

All those generic Chevy short/long water pumps spin the wrong direction!!! You specifically need a "reverse rotation water pump for Corvette 84-96 with serpentine belt". Not too many in the hi-perf aftermarket: Stewart or Edelbrock.

Standard oil pump is fine.

Doesn't your machine shop have a source for valve guides??

conv90

I'm in italy ... I must buy all part in the USA...
Thanks.
Beppe