VeryUnoriginal

I think 4:10's are a little too much for a street car that you want to drive everyday. I personally think 3:73's would be just fine.

I've owned the car for a little over 4 months now, and I've loved every moment of it. But after daily driving my Grandfather's C5, the stock 269hp doesn't feel quite as fun as it used too!

RVY

The primary question is "How much $$$$ is too much?" You can't achieve all your set goals. There is no simple economical answer to your question. If your unable to do your own work expect to pay. A set of 4:10's in the rear may be your best bang for the buck. Other than that it appears this game is not suited to your wallet. Stop while your ahead. Ask me how I know.

STL94LT1

With a ZF6, NO WAY!! My 94 with 4.10's is only turning ~1800 rpms in sixth gear at 70 mph.

VeryUnoriginal

Really? So only about a 200 rpm difference? Then how much faster would the gears make the car if there's barely a difference over stock?

VeryUnoriginal

Okay, let me change the question up a bit. What should I do to get at least 350rwhp, that will still be reliable and will still get around the same gas mileage as my car does stock? Not the cheapest way, but the way that will make the car the most reliable.

STL94LT1

Ported heads/roller rockers, the right camshaft, and a good tune will get you ~350 rwhp. With very little or any decrease in fuel mileage.

96GS#007

dolbnyc

Here ya go

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_10..._end_upgrades/

cv67

Dreams are for free....

Bandit's C4

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_10...e/viewall.html

Saw that - sounded interesting... in the beginning.

Heads + cam = $2,500
Add timing chain, injectors, 1.6" rockers and pushrods - add another $1,000.

According to the article is 430 at the flywheel- might be 325/340 at the wheels.
Sounds a little disheartening after that kind of money spent.
Then headers, hi-flo cats, and exhaust is roughly another $3,000 to feel a measurable increase in HP.

93 ragtop

see my signature. with ported factory heads, hot cam kit. and headers I got 362 hp through a automatic with a 3000 stall converter. See signature.

VeryUnoriginal

I like the looks and power of the C5's. But I daily drove my grandfather's C5 6-speed for a week. I absolutely HATE the clutch and gear shift. The clutch was way too soft and the gear shift is very sloppy and takes too much muscle to get it in gear. The steering is also way too soft for me. I'll just stick with my LT1.

VeryUnoriginal

I think I've found my answer. I think my best bet is a cam, heads, etc. A blower might come later. I love my C4 too much to take the easy way out and sell it for a C5 or LS2 C6.

Butter

Add a simple 125 hp nitrous kit...The GM engineers actually did this to stock vettes to see if the vettes powertrain could handle the extra power.The nitrous was the easiest & cheapest way to do it...7-10 second burst is all U really need. Just priced it.under 800.Including plate.The plate is from Nitrous Outlet.

Mr.Bear

Hello:

There are a lot of good ideas in this thread so far.
One question that I would like to ask BEFORE you spend any money is what is the emissions testing like in your state?
I feel that long tube headers are a must however they will not pass a visual smog check.
No sense spending money and then being forced to return the car to stock just to get insurance.
I have a supercharger on my 96 with a meth kit - it runs strong but needs headers very badly. The mods done by the previous owner were done to pass emissions in WA state, and the long tube headers were never an option. Now that things have changed I am looking to install long tube headers - but we are talking over $2,000.00 just for the headers.
The blower / meth combo on my car is big $$ and as others have pointed out there are costs involved with maintenance. I am looking to replace the seal on my head unit and the other day I was doing some spirited driving when suddenly the supercharger belt decided to self destruct at about 100 mph.
A good set of heads (AFR), a properly port matched intake manifold (LT4), a modern cam that is not too big, and a set of long tube headers will do wonders for the car without killing the mileage.
Unfortunately the above list is NOT cheap. Good parts always = Big $$$$. There is no free lunch, and a low budget will always be a compromise.
Cheap headers = Poor fit, and after applying a sledge hammer to install them, and after you cave-in half of the pipes from the poor ground clearance you have gained almost nothing in flow, and hurt your wallet in the process.
Cheap heads = Poor flow, junk valves which can fall apart and ruin your motor, weak springs that will lead to valve float the first time you miss a shift, and a pile of work to install.
Cheap cam = Old technology with dated cam lobe ramp angles, poor mileage, poor throttle response, poor vacuum, and poor idle and drivability.
The most cost effective way to make power is to spend the money on good parts and install them yourself - provided you know what you are doing.
Best wishes on your quest for more power for a great price.

Mr.Bear is online now Report Post

Tom400CFI

The OP posted his question.....10 years ago.

I bet he either already got his 350 RWHP or moved on.

Mr.Bear

Wow! I never checked the date from the original posting and thought I was adding to a current thread - boy did I fall for that one.....
I agree, the OP has certainly moved on by now. A good lesson learned for me.

Tom400CFI

I've done it too.

Easy mistake.