C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

3,000 mi after clutch/fw swap, 1st issue

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-26-2013, 12:04 PM
  #1  
lt4obsesses
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
 
lt4obsesses's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: H-Town Texas
Posts: 5,139
Received 481 Likes on 261 Posts

Default 3,000 mi after clutch/fw swap, 1st issue

Installed Spec FW and Carolina Clutch stg II clutch kit this spring. I've put about 3,000 miles on it. Everything seems to be working great...except...This past week it has started sticking in first gear. By this I mean, if I hold it in first at around 2000-2500 rpm, it will stick, the shifter doesn't want to come out of gear, and the rev won't go down with the clutch in. But, if blip the throttle slightly, it goes back to normal. It only does it on occaision, and I cannot make it happen if I try.

Thing is, outside of these somewhat rare occurances, it shifts and drives beautifully. Clutch pedal feels normal when it happens, so I think all the hydraulics are fine. I replaced, filled the trans fluid after install, and haven't seen any leaks. I spent alot of time getting it lined up correctly when I put back in. I also replaced the pivot stud and clutch fork.

Anyone experience this or have any ideas?
Old 08-26-2013, 01:21 PM
  #2  
Klondike
Race Director
 
Klondike's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 19,930
Received 110 Likes on 89 Posts

Default

I had a similar problem with a 5.0 Mustang I used to have. It turned out that the clutch disk was sometimes binding on the transmission input splines and causing it to drag against the flywheel. Like you said, if I blipped the throttle, it would break it loose and was OK for a while. Very aggravating! Had to pull the thing out to fix it by filing out and smoothing the spline groves in the disk and test sliding it on the input splines before I re-installed it. Almost more hassle than it was worth. If you have to go as far as pulling one out, you might as well do the file fitting on a NEW disk.
Old 08-26-2013, 01:48 PM
  #3  
hemivett
Pro
 
hemivett's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2012
Location: Seattle Wa
Posts: 610
Received 12 Likes on 11 Posts

Default

Also could be the pilot bearing sticking, and turning the tranny with the clutch engaged, and when you hit the gas it releases. Especially a bronze bearing that hasn't been replaced. Thats why the needle bearing unit is so much better.

More than likely you're gonna have to take it apart. If a magnet sticks to the bronze, its bad. h
Old 08-26-2013, 02:09 PM
  #4  
pianoguy
Safety Car
 
pianoguy's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Apple Valley MN
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

Don't forget to order that counter-shaft shim from zfdoc if it turns out you need to pull it apart again ;-)
Old 08-26-2013, 02:30 PM
  #5  
lt4obsesses
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
 
lt4obsesses's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: H-Town Texas
Posts: 5,139
Received 481 Likes on 261 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by hemivett
Also could be the pilot bearing sticking, and turning the tranny with the clutch engaged, and when you hit the gas it releases. Especially a bronze bearing that hasn't been replaced. Thats why the needle bearing unit is so much better.

More than likely you're gonna have to take it apart. If a magnet sticks to the bronze, its bad. h
It has the needle bearing in it now, not a new one though. But it looked like new upon inspection. I just didn't have the right tool to remove it and was renting the lift. But I thought about that too. I'm pretty sure the clutch is releasing as it doesn't lurch when i blip it.

Originally Posted by pianoguy
Don't forget to order that counter-shaft shim from zfdoc if it turns out you need to pull it apart again ;-)
Very true.
Old 08-28-2013, 03:53 PM
  #6  
dizwiz24
Race Director
 
dizwiz24's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: NEwhere Ohio
Posts: 13,334
Received 560 Likes on 437 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by hemivett
Also could be the pilot bearing sticking, and turning the tranny with the clutch engaged, and when you hit the gas it releases. Especially a bronze bearing that hasn't been replaced. Thats why the needle bearing unit is so much better.

More than likely you're gonna have to take it apart. If a magnet sticks to the bronze, its bad. h
A million different opinions on whats better:

the bushing or the pilot bearing.

I have run both and I have never noticed any difference.

That said, I got convinced back into the bushing, this time a fluted bronze bushing.

One thing I remember hearing was dont grease the input shaft/ bronze bushing insides.

Not sure if the same applies with pilot bearings. I did grease my pilot bearing with no ill effects like you are describing.
Old 08-28-2013, 05:56 PM
  #7  
hemivett
Pro
 
hemivett's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2012
Location: Seattle Wa
Posts: 610
Received 12 Likes on 11 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by dizwiz24
no ill effects like you are describing.
Actually I was reffering to the magnatizing that occurs between the input shaft, and pilot bearing as time goes by. h
Old 08-29-2013, 12:32 AM
  #8  
lt4obsesses
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
 
lt4obsesses's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: H-Town Texas
Posts: 5,139
Received 481 Likes on 261 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by hemivett
Actually I was reffering to the magnatizing that occurs between the input shaft, and pilot bearing as time goes by. h
ooh, now that's interesting. Never thought about that. The bearing looked to be in very good shape, and I put a tough of high heat chassis grease, because, well, needle bearings like grease.

Get notified of new replies

To 3,000 mi after clutch/fw swap, 1st issue




Quick Reply: 3,000 mi after clutch/fw swap, 1st issue



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:46 PM.