3,000 mi after clutch/fw swap, 1st issue
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
3,000 mi after clutch/fw swap, 1st issue
Installed Spec FW and Carolina Clutch stg II clutch kit this spring. I've put about 3,000 miles on it. Everything seems to be working great...except...This past week it has started sticking in first gear. By this I mean, if I hold it in first at around 2000-2500 rpm, it will stick, the shifter doesn't want to come out of gear, and the rev won't go down with the clutch in. But, if blip the throttle slightly, it goes back to normal. It only does it on occaision, and I cannot make it happen if I try.
Thing is, outside of these somewhat rare occurances, it shifts and drives beautifully. Clutch pedal feels normal when it happens, so I think all the hydraulics are fine. I replaced, filled the trans fluid after install, and haven't seen any leaks. I spent alot of time getting it lined up correctly when I put back in. I also replaced the pivot stud and clutch fork.
Anyone experience this or have any ideas?
Thing is, outside of these somewhat rare occurances, it shifts and drives beautifully. Clutch pedal feels normal when it happens, so I think all the hydraulics are fine. I replaced, filled the trans fluid after install, and haven't seen any leaks. I spent alot of time getting it lined up correctly when I put back in. I also replaced the pivot stud and clutch fork.
Anyone experience this or have any ideas?
#2
Race Director
I had a similar problem with a 5.0 Mustang I used to have. It turned out that the clutch disk was sometimes binding on the transmission input splines and causing it to drag against the flywheel. Like you said, if I blipped the throttle, it would break it loose and was OK for a while. Very aggravating! Had to pull the thing out to fix it by filing out and smoothing the spline groves in the disk and test sliding it on the input splines before I re-installed it. Almost more hassle than it was worth. If you have to go as far as pulling one out, you might as well do the file fitting on a NEW disk.
#3
Also could be the pilot bearing sticking, and turning the tranny with the clutch engaged, and when you hit the gas it releases. Especially a bronze bearing that hasn't been replaced. Thats why the needle bearing unit is so much better.
More than likely you're gonna have to take it apart. If a magnet sticks to the bronze, its bad. h
More than likely you're gonna have to take it apart. If a magnet sticks to the bronze, its bad. h
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Also could be the pilot bearing sticking, and turning the tranny with the clutch engaged, and when you hit the gas it releases. Especially a bronze bearing that hasn't been replaced. Thats why the needle bearing unit is so much better.
More than likely you're gonna have to take it apart. If a magnet sticks to the bronze, its bad. h
More than likely you're gonna have to take it apart. If a magnet sticks to the bronze, its bad. h
Very true.
#6
Race Director
Also could be the pilot bearing sticking, and turning the tranny with the clutch engaged, and when you hit the gas it releases. Especially a bronze bearing that hasn't been replaced. Thats why the needle bearing unit is so much better.
More than likely you're gonna have to take it apart. If a magnet sticks to the bronze, its bad. h
More than likely you're gonna have to take it apart. If a magnet sticks to the bronze, its bad. h
the bushing or the pilot bearing.
I have run both and I have never noticed any difference.
That said, I got convinced back into the bushing, this time a fluted bronze bushing.
One thing I remember hearing was dont grease the input shaft/ bronze bushing insides.
Not sure if the same applies with pilot bearings. I did grease my pilot bearing with no ill effects like you are describing.
#7
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
ooh, now that's interesting. Never thought about that. The bearing looked to be in very good shape, and I put a tough of high heat chassis grease, because, well, needle bearings like grease.