T.V. cable on the nash 4+3 (84)
08-15-2012, 11:43 AM
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2001
Location: Galveston... well, Santa Fe Texas
Posts: 21,016
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Donor '03 & '06
T.V. cable on the nash 4+3 (84)
my car is carb'd, PCM has no fuse.
The TV cable was hanging under the engine, not connected.
I took some time while getting my heads redone to work on the OD, as it didn't fuction.
When I popped the pan off the od, the end of the cable that is inside the unit fell out.... it wasn't connected.
it's my understanding that the cable provides the transmission with where my throttle is so that it can turn off the OD under heavy load. (right?)
so if it's not connected, the OD would always assume that my foot is on the floor and won't engage the OD.
if I'm right, can I just attach the arm to the stop so that the OD thinks the car is always idleing? keep in mind that since I don't have PCM, the OD is going to be purely mechanical anyway.
if I'm incorrect, what do I need to do with the cable?
The TV cable was hanging under the engine, not connected.
I took some time while getting my heads redone to work on the OD, as it didn't fuction.
When I popped the pan off the od, the end of the cable that is inside the unit fell out.... it wasn't connected.
it's my understanding that the cable provides the transmission with where my throttle is so that it can turn off the OD under heavy load. (right?)
so if it's not connected, the OD would always assume that my foot is on the floor and won't engage the OD.
if I'm right, can I just attach the arm to the stop so that the OD thinks the car is always idleing? keep in mind that since I don't have PCM, the OD is going to be purely mechanical anyway.
if I'm incorrect, what do I need to do with the cable?
08-16-2012, 12:20 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
You are not correct. remove the cable and cap the hole.
I installed a 4+3 in my 57 chevy pickup, and when I determined that the pulling of the cable disengaged the overdrive, i went totally manual with it. I removed the cable, and made a blank-off plug for the hole, and sealed it with black RTV called "the right stuff".
I installed a switch in line with the first gear switch, and now I just turn it on when I want overdrive.
To use the trans as an overdrive, use it in 3rd and 4th only for longevity.
Always put in the clutch when engaging the overdrive, Disengaging it too.
If you use a common switch, the switch must energize a relay coil, and the power wire goes on one side of the relay power contact, and the trans end goes from the relay to the blade on the side of the trans. The internal pressure switch is what shifts the trans in gear at 15 mph.
My engine is not computer controlled either, and the over drive is an "on command" item.
Remember to keep the first gear switch in the circuit, as the overdrive will shift about 15 mph, and could fry it if you were running through the gears.
If you wanted to, you could get a later valve body without the cable link and shaft, and it would just be switch operated anyway.
I installed a 4+3 in my 57 chevy pickup, and when I determined that the pulling of the cable disengaged the overdrive, i went totally manual with it. I removed the cable, and made a blank-off plug for the hole, and sealed it with black RTV called "the right stuff".
I installed a switch in line with the first gear switch, and now I just turn it on when I want overdrive.
To use the trans as an overdrive, use it in 3rd and 4th only for longevity.
Always put in the clutch when engaging the overdrive, Disengaging it too.
If you use a common switch, the switch must energize a relay coil, and the power wire goes on one side of the relay power contact, and the trans end goes from the relay to the blade on the side of the trans. The internal pressure switch is what shifts the trans in gear at 15 mph.
My engine is not computer controlled either, and the over drive is an "on command" item.
Remember to keep the first gear switch in the circuit, as the overdrive will shift about 15 mph, and could fry it if you were running through the gears.
If you wanted to, you could get a later valve body without the cable link and shaft, and it would just be switch operated anyway.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; 08-16-2012 at 12:28 AM.
08-16-2012, 05:47 PM
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2001
Location: Galveston... well, Santa Fe Texas
Posts: 21,016
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Donor '03 & '06
ok. Thanks for the reply!
so i can yank the arm off the valve body, and just either leave the cable or cap it.
Then I have to run a switch, in circuit after the first gear switch?
I can just provide straight 12v to the blade on the side of the trans?
or a DPST that'll do both?
so i can yank the arm off the valve body, and just either leave the cable or cap it.
Then I have to run a switch, in circuit after the first gear switch?
I can just provide straight 12v to the blade on the side of the trans?
or a DPST that'll do both?
Last edited by MonteHall; 08-16-2012 at 06:01 PM.