TIMSPEED

Well, I was just thinking. I've heard of guys putting bags of ice on their intake and running like .2-.3 faster in the ¼. Well, I was thinking of this
Get another air intake accordion (piece that connects MAF sensor to TB) and putting it in the freezer for like..2 days, then put it in an ice chest and go to the track. Pop it on RIGHT before I'm about to make my pass (Cuz it's VERY simple to slide it on) Also, put a medical grade ice pack, right on the air intake box, right behind the Air Filter Lid. (Where the box kinda goes from a square to a tube) and run with the frozen accordion and ice right there. I also had a wild idea on using those Air Foil's. Put that in the freezer along with the according and slide it on at the same time. Think it'd actually make a difference? Hey, it'd stil be free if it DIDN'T make a difference. But I'd think since where it'd be COLD at, it would actually drop the incoming air a little(if not alot) I might even make up some sort of ice pack, that would go over the Long Tube Runners and on top of the plenum aswell. Heh, I can't wait to try...:D

OrangeC4

I don't think that would work seeing as the time in between putting the part on and staging, it would get warm again. I have been thinking of trying to rig some low profile fans that would attach to the hood just above the plenum that would not have problems with clearance, or have fans blowing from each side of the runners.


[Modified by OrangeC4, 8:38 AM 5/29/2002]

pablocruise

would frozen tater tots in the bags they come in work? How 'bout frozen peas? :crazy: -sorry....couldn't resist- :jester
What about running a mix of iso alcohol and ice water in the TB? It would already be bypassed and available anyways. Pump it by a small pump motor and run it thru a cool can.

TIMSPEED

Hmm...what about freezing the accordion and air foil using Liquid Nitrogen(or dry ice) :confused: ideas ideas ideas!!!

The Dingo

IMO, plastic is more resistant to absorbing outside temps (be they cold or hot) and you are better off cooling the metal areas of your motor that are more susceptible to heat sink.

As for the idea of cooling the plenum and runners, check this out: http://www.procooler.com/
They are a forum sponsor and I know this goes against the free part of this idea it might help you out.

Running the fuel line through something connected to the AC to cool the fuel prior to flowing to the fuel rail has been at the back of mind for a while after seeing the same thing done on the new Porsche Turbo's. They are supposedly quicker with the AC on due to the cooler fuel mix than with the AC off... :crazy:

IMO don't go too nuts with freezing/cooling parts - you might look like a ricer. :jester :):) They do that stuff because cooling and air intake temp has a more significant effect on cars with forced induction. I wouldn't expect there is as large a gain to be made on a naturally aspirated car...

Hammer

a 50 shot of nitrous would cool the off the temp :D

bill mcdonald

rocketfinger

:crazy:
That's completely inside-out. Cooler air = denser air = more oxygen = more kaboom, but my understanding is that you want the fuel HEATED to increase volatility. Pump gas is blended so that as temperature increases, more evaporates. Liquid fuel will not burn. Add to that the huge drag of the compressor, the whole thing sounds :confused:


[Modified by rocketfinger, 4:48 PM 5/29/2002]

James94LT1

Wanna cool it, spray it with nitrous! :yesnod:

OrangeC4

That would work great too, and with only doing a 50 shot there is not much risk to the motor.

vader86

dont be that crazy, the thing would probably shatter

VAHROOM

MMMMMMMMmmmmmmmm and by the second pass they would be ready to eat.

89vette

You must have alot of spare time on your hands to think stuff like this up!

TIMSPEED

Well, being vetteless for 2 months does the job nicely. (Making time to think up this stuff. haha!)

Red94Vette

First of all do NOT put a bag of ice on top of an LT1's intake. We did that to my brothers car at super chevy sunday and it fried the opti-spark and we missed the whole event in the pits. The car started running a week later after it dried out.

Secondly, My brother rigged up some tubes on the outside of an intake to spray liquid air (in the little cans) directly on the intake. Right before a burn out he opened the can and it froze the crap out of the intake. He ran a tenth or so quicker that way (his best E.T.)

There ya have it.


[Modified by Red94Vette, 2:42 PM 5/29/2002]

Red94Vette

oops double post


[Modified by Red94Vette, 4:04 PM 5/29/2002]

OrangeC4

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Things tend to sink in better when they are said more than once. :D (You only have to hit the post button once, otherwise you will get this)


[Modified by OrangeC4, 9:53 PM 5/29/2002]

Blu9T2

Good try. If it wern't for guys like you thinking outside the box, we won't find the next breakthrough in speed tips. Just be sure to pass on the ones that work. That way we won't end up putting tailpipes with red LED's in them thinking we gained a few tenths like the ricers! :lol: Keep trying. :)

88-L98-Z52

A couple of years ago, I remember seeing someone selling little fans, that installed in the finderwells (came in progressively more expensive kits that used 1, 2 or 3 fans, depending upon which version you bought) that supposedly did an amazing job of cooling down the entire engine compartment.

PurpleC4

Nice thought, but it won't provide any benefit. No matter how cold you get it (-320 degrees F. w/liquid nitrogen or even -452 degrees F. w/liquid helium) there is not enough thermal mass or contact area for the air charge to pickup the refrigeration. Couple that with the volume and velocity of the air charge and the net effect will be zero. :eek:

If it were that easy to cool a gas or liquid, then radiators would be designed like inlet air accordion tubes, with a single pass for the coolant.

~ Purp