Need help interior lights won't turn off

superdave269 · 05-11-2012, 09:52 PM

I picked up my 92 corvette earlier today as I had someone put new door locks in it. One of them froze up so I bought a pair and had them replaced. Well just before dark I went to put it in my garage and the battery was dead. I noticed that the interior lights were on. What the heck did the body shop do? Pinch or short out a wire? Any ideas? Some kind of switch go bad? I pulled the ctsy fuse for tonight but that's not really the fix I was looking for. Thanks

superdave269 · 05-11-2012, 11:28 PM

When I went to put the car in my garage the alternater seized up. Looks like this new elctrical problem is real bad. The body shop did brake the passenger window while working on the locks(they did tell me and they did replace the window) I'm worried they cut a wire or something along those lines. This stinks!

superdave269 · 05-12-2012, 02:58 PM

Success! I found a skined wire in the door, all taped up and not shorting out any longer. I put it all back together and it appears that my electrical problems are gone. It cost me $169 for an alternater and new serpentine belt, plus 6 hrs troubles shooting. All I wanted to do today was play with my 73 vette. Oh well theres always tomorrow.

caddyboy84 · 05-12-2012, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superdave269

Success! I found a skined wire in the door, all taped up and not shorting out any longer. I put it all back together and it appears that my electrical problems are gone. It cost me $169 for an alternater and new serpentine belt, plus 6 hrs troubles shooting. All I wanted to do today was play with my 73 vette. Oh well theres always tomorrow.

I'd start shopping for another shop

I would've went BEZERK!!

superdave269 · 05-12-2012, 10:35 PM

Lights still won't turn off! I really thought I fixed it. I took it for a nice test drive and the interior lights are back on. The good news is after changing the alternater voltage looks good. I did some searching on old post and I have read that the switch assemble for security that attaches to the locks can cause this. THIS MUST BE the PROBLEM because I just had the locks replaced. Now that I have locked and unlocked the doors the problem is back. I don't think it's a relay unless it burned up do to the short that I fixed in the door. I need help in understanding what to do with the little switch that attaches to the lock in order to fix the problem correctly. I just pulled the fuse for tonight. Thanks!

superdave269 · 05-12-2012, 10:48 PM

I would like to add that in trouble shooting this I discovered that I can no longer make the car alarm go off(beep beep etc). This also pionts to the little switch to me.

Cliff Harris · 05-13-2012, 02:41 AM

Door jamb switch.

Are you sure the headlight switch is not in the "courtesy lights" position?

Moonlk · 05-13-2012, 09:11 AM

I am thinking it is the security switch on the key lock in the door. When the lights stayed on for me it was fixed simply by making sure the locks were in a vertical position. The key must have been pulled out with the lock a little off of vertical enough to turn on the lights. Maybe when the lock was installed the switch was put back on in the wrong position.

caddyboy84 · 05-13-2012, 09:46 AM

I'm not sure about a 92, but my 88 has an interior light timer that keeps the inside lights on for a few seconds after you leave the car. This timer (on my car) is located on the harness behind the passenger dash, it could very well be hung up or bad all together.

superdave269 · 05-13-2012, 11:46 AM

OK lets assume the problem is the alarm switch that is attached to the key lock. If I take off the door panels yet again I may be able to test this if I jumper out the switch. If the lights go out that was the problem. Of course maybe I need to open the switch and not jump it out?? This is becoming a real PITA. I don't mind putting in some labor it's just I am not sure what needs fixing.

Hooked on Vettes · 05-13-2012, 01:18 PM

The fact that you can't set the alarm would indicate one of the
door alarm key switches is closed when the door key cylinder
is in the straight up and down key insertion or removal position.

In this position the switch should be open.

The switch has two wires. A Light Green and a Black/White wire.
When the key lock cylinder is straight up and down (key removal
or insertion position) the switch should be open.

When you turn the key cylinder to the unlock position
the switch closes and you have continuity from the Light Green
wire to the Black/White wire. This ground signal is what disarms
the alarm. If the signal is always grounded the alarm can't be set
and is also probably what's keeping the interior lights on.

If you trace the wires down they go to a connector plug. A picture of
the harness is shown in the thread below. If you disconnect the
plug and close the doors and hatch, the interior lights should time out
and go off If either switch is the problem.

The Light Green wires from both doors are spliced together under the
dash and go to the CCM. Either switch could cause the problem.
The Black/White wire is ground.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...off-alarm.html

superdave269 · 05-13-2012, 03:05 PM

That last post was very helpfull! Thank you!!
I don't want to jinks it again but it's looking good . I unplugged both security switches and took the car for the same test drive around town and the interior lights did not come back on. I think I will test it for a day or two before I open the champaign this time. Now should I plug in one and test to try and determine which switch went bad or just buy 2 new ones and be done with it. I will add that they look OK so I am guessing that when the body shop pulled them off to change the locks something inside of one of them came apart. I don't think the key lock or switch can be put in upside down but I'm just guesses on that.

Hooked on Vettes · 05-13-2012, 03:49 PM

The switches are side dependent. In your case I doubt that's
your problem.

With the switch unplugged, use an ohm meter and measure the resistance
from the Light Green wire to the Black/White wire on the end of the plug going
to the switch.

Key cylinder not in the unlock position should measure Open/Infinity.

Key turned to unlock position the resistance should measure 0 ohms.

Not likely, but the Light Green wire could be shorted to ground somewhere
inside the door area.

Could also be they didn't install the switch on properly.
If you pull off one of the switches look closely at the switch.
The switch is turned by two small notches. The two raised
areas that protrude from the back of the key cylinder are plastic so
It's possible to force the switch back on so the switch doesn't
open or closed properly.

superdave269 · 05-13-2012, 04:20 PM

I just range out the switches. The one on the drivwer's side has continuity no matter what possition the key is in. Passenger's side is open. If I understand this correctly the driver's side switch is the one giving me the problem.

Hooked on Vettes · 05-13-2012, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superdave269

The one on the driver's side has continuity no matter what position the key is in.

Yes it appears something is wrong with the drivers side switch.
Pull it off and look at it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by superdave269

Passenger's side is open.

Does it close when you turn the key to the unlock position?

superdave269 · 05-13-2012, 07:46 PM

I could see the passenger's side switch open and close via my multi meter. I have to say working on my 73 vette is a lot different than this one. Thank goodness for this forum.