ivan

I have been fighting blackened clutch fluid and poor clutch engaging performance since i installed a Cat-back flowmaster system on my 96 CE.

Anybody else experience the same???

The clutch hyd hose is nowhere near the exhaust, yet the clutch fluid blackens after a few drives. Both the master and slave have been replaced.

Was there a heat shield (in the clutch slave cylinder area) on the original exhaust?

:confused:

94-LT1

I've had the flowmaster cat backs for about three months. gutted converters also.
No problems yet. Maybe the left converter is clogging, generating too much heat. There wasn.t any sort of heat shield on my original.


[Modified by 94-LT1, 9:30 PM 5/20/2002]

GlockLT4

no heat shield up there, but there is one behind each cat on top of the pipe.

Ikester

That is just a serious coincidence. In no way can an exhaust kit affect a clutch.. Sounds like you may have some air in the hyd system and may need bleeding. Or have the clutch checked out by a trans shop

SpedRacr93

I would say you have a leak, check the connections. I just did exactly what you said, replaced it all. New line, new save, new master. Somehow I didn't get the bleeder tight enough or didn't tighten it back up. Anyway, fluid turned black and slowly went away until it didn't have enough pressure to remove the disk from the flywheel. Smoke! Crap!

But all is well now. When you bleed the system with new fluid, just take the slave off, and push it in while somebody up top sucks out the old fluid, and puts more in as you let it out. It gets the job done pretty quick.

Your exhuast/clutch thing is most likely bizarre timing, but I could be wrong.
:seeya

vetsvette

I've had the Flowmaster system for 4 years and have had no problems.

GS-598

I don't think you're burning the clutch fluid. My guess is that you are seeing contamination in the fluid. Are you using GM hydraulic clutch fluid?

Dennis

ivan

Ok!! Thanks for the good feedback.

I used GM fluid for the first two times the clutch was bled (sp?). It blackened within two days.

The last two time it has been just DOT 3 fluid (that the GM dealership reccomended.... :smash: )

I am open to the idea that it was just a wicked coincidence, about the exhaust and clutch at the same time.... but we are always supposed to look for coincidences, right???

If the blackening is caused buy air contamination, could you elaborate on the best method of bleeding??? I had always thought it would be using a mighty vac, and pulling the air up, but maybe not :bb :cuss .......

I would love to try it once more myself before i :mad and take it to the dealer (again) :cry

What is the rest of this method??? When you bleed the system with new fluid, just take the slave off, and push it in while somebody up top sucks out the old fluid, and puts more in as you let it out. It gets the job done pretty quick...............

Thanks for the great responses so far!!!!

Ivan


[Modified by ivan, 4:33 PM 5/21/2002]

ivan

Come on!!! Anybody know the best way of bleeding your clutch??? Before i have to :U to the dealer again!!!!!

guywade

when you say gutted converter do you mean you took the inside of the cat converter out and then put them back on the car? if so thats cool , just wondering how legal everything is thats done on some of the rides here, do you guys switch things back around for smog inspections , is that what alot of you guys are doing?

trying to get my car faster! thanks :cheers:

silver & red CE

I bled mine using the FSM technique, BTW the cheapy Helms manual has the same technique:

Remove PCM so you can access the clutch master cylinder (on a LT1/4, not sure about L-98).

Open up the MC and use a turkey baster to remove as much old fluid as possible.

Refill MC with new fluid.

Remove the slave cylinder.

Hold the slave so the bleeder is the highest point of the slave cylinder and attach a hose to the bleed screw, have the other end of the hose in a cup or bottle (to collect the old fluid coming out of the bleed screw).

Have the helper in the car apply pressure to the clutch pedal.

Crack the bleed screw. The clutch pedal should drop to the floor.

Seal the bleed screw.

Have the in-car helper release the clutch pedal, it will return to the up position.

Repeat until the fluid is clear.

Be sure to have a second helper watching the fluid level in the MC, don't let it go dry.

Reinstall slave cylinderand seal MC.

Reinstall PCM.

Hope this helps.

Eric