alexmurphy

When I got the car I was aware that the previous owner left the car sitting for a long time, and they told me that sometimes it doesn't start right away. After driving a few days, I learned that when the engine is hot, it usually starts right up, but after 3 or 4 hours, it will take a couple turns of the key to get it going.

I first thought it could just be because the car hasn't seen much road lately, and a fresh tank of gas and some miles would fix it. After 2 weeks and 2 tanks of gas, nothing's changed. I replaced the starter after it broke, and I was hoping that would solve the problem too, and it didn't in the least bit.

I was thinking it's a fuel pump or fuel line issue, but I'm not sure if there are any more common reasons this would happen. Could anyone help me out here?



Also while I'm at it, the brake pedal is really stiff, and I am actually not able to lock the wheels. I think this is a common problem, because all 3 C4's i test drove did the same thing. Anything specific to check?

caddyboy84

Start with a tune-up, cap, rotor, plugs ect. See what the plugs look like, check the timing, fuel pressure. The car has ABS, the wheels aren't supposed to lock.

alexmurphy

I've already gone over most of that. None of it has really helped.

No, I mean the brakes don't slow down the car fast enough. You can tell the general performance of the brakes has gone down a lot. ABS has yet to kick in (I've tested by going to 45mph and just slamming the brakes, it takes a while to stop)

ejscarfo

What's the mileage on the car? Could be leaking injectors too. Visual inspection of the spark plugs will be a good clue.

caddyboy84

Have you checked the timing? I keep mine at 8 degrees. Maybe you just need a brake job, cut rotors new pads and a bleed. I don't remember what the skid-pad is but ABS don't stop or feel like regular brakes. You said other C4's you drove felt the same, I'm guessing all those cars didn't have bad brakes.

alexmurphy

148000. I plan on taking her to 200k at least

The last owner said they replaced the spark plugs a few months before they decided to sell (maybe in january) so I never thought to check them. I'll get on that though

caddyboy84

Once you confirm the timing is good, move to fuel pressure at the rail to see if injectors are bleeding down. If thats ok move to dialing in the TPS and Air/Idle valve with eachother. First check the TPS with a volt/ohm-meter, than adjust the Air/Idle by removing it and checking the distance from gasget to plunger tip, should be 1 1/8". Get this far and see what you got.

alexmurphy

I know little about brakes, All I checked was the rotors and the pads. I'll probably take it in to a brake shop eventually, but after paying 600 bucks for a new starter and "diagnostic fees", i'm not too trusting in other people with my car.
I'm not necessarily saying they are necessarily broken or anything, but all I know is that its flat out scary to drive in traffic. If this is how they are supposed to be, I'm going aftermarket.

ejscarfo

For the brakes, start with bleeding them and replacing the fluid. Check vacuum to the power booster as well.

If the car has ABS, there is a specific pattern for bleeding, its NOT the typical "start with the wheel furtherest away from the m/c and work towards it."

pcolt94

Check the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line for fuel. If it is wet, then fuel is leaking back into the engine and loading it up. Makes it crank a long time and is a pretty common problem.

You can put a small hose on the FPR and put the other end in a cup. Pressurize the system, shut down and watch. If the cup fills up, that’s your problem.

I just changed my FPR for the second time for the same symptom.

TTOP350

If the vettes are wired like the Fbody, (I think they are) the fuel pump relay may be going bad or is bad if it doesnt kick on right away. In the case of a relay failure, the Oil psi sending unit will kick the fuelpump on when a certain oil PSI is reached.

This may or may not be the problem but something to check out if other things don't checkout.

caddyboy84

If that fluid is really thick and black, bleeding or changing the fluid will most likely blow the rear seal of the master. Also remember that changing old fluids can sometimes make a part go bad, so be careful with that tranny. Do what I recommended first, then move on from there, get it running right first and don't drive it if you think the brakes need work. I bought my car and ran it through my paces, when I got to the brakes I changed the fluid and blew the master, so be careful. With that kind of mileage your bound to need some new stuff, do alot of reading (Like I did) and pose questions here. I rufuse to bring any of my cars to "Clip Joints", I do all my own work and what I don't know I teach myself.

caddyboy84

This is another thing to check as well. Also get a shrader valve gauge and check pressure at the rail with the key on/not running and see if it stays between 40 and 45 after the motor gets hot. It should stay at pressure for a while, mine stays at pressure for hours.

overdrawn

Sounds like your pads are glazed...

alexmurphy

you know, thats what I was thinking. I was gonna say the rotors felt like they were covered in ice, and that would fit the description.

caddyboy84

Cut the rotors or buy new ones and hit the pads with a whiz-wheel or buy new ones.

alexmurphy

ill fix the pads, I don't think the rotors are the issue.

caddyboy84

It upsets me when I hear about somebody going to a shop and spending $600 for something they could've done themselves for around $150 or so. My advice to you is this; buy tools and equipment and do it yourself. For $600 you could've bought a decent socket set, a floor jack and a starter. You would've had enough money left over to put towards a OBDII scanner that's OBDI compatable. Whenever you feel the need to involve a shop, ask your self if it's something you can do yourself, if the answer is "YES", than buy the tools you need to do the job and read-up on what's involved. The tools, equipment and knowledge are yours forever

alexmurphy

It may or may not sound like it, but I'm working on that. I'm not the most mechanically savvy but I love cars, so sooner or later I want to get to the point where I can do anything on my car myself, and if not that, the mechanic where I work knows a lot about chevy v8's, and he wouldn't charge me anything to do a little work. Only problem is that I can't diagnose problems, things a check engine scan doesn't recognize.

PMARTINEZ92126

My car wouldnt start after being warm. Started great when cold. It turned out to be a leaking fuel pressure regulator