1985 rear hub and u-joint replacement
03-29-2012, 07:14 PM
#21
Instructor
Thats true about stuck parts slowing things down. The bolt holding the bottom control arm to the knuckle would not come out on one side (had the nut off but the bolt is frozen) so I had to take off most of the other arms to do the u joints on that side, and it took much longer than the other.
I still never managed to change one of the axle washers either. I got one side by putting a jack under the breaker bar to get the 36mm nut loose, but snapped my bar trying to get the other side. I may need a real torch.
That big C clamp tool that Advance Auto rents works amazingly well for pressing the u joints.
I still never managed to change one of the axle washers either. I got one side by putting a jack under the breaker bar to get the 36mm nut loose, but snapped my bar trying to get the other side. I may need a real torch.
That big C clamp tool that Advance Auto rents works amazingly well for pressing the u joints.
03-30-2012, 07:00 AM
#22
Drifting
when i changed out bearing/hubs on my 85, the easiest way for me was to remove the half shaft first, then, i could get in there with my 1/2 drive impact wrench. i did not have to remove the knuckle. overall, a piece of cake, although, there is no way in hell i could do that job in 35 minutes. seems to me it took me 3 weeks (working a couple hours per day) - BUT, i did all 6 u-joints, replaced all four bearing/hub assemblies, rebuilt 4 calipers, and in general, overhauled the complete brake system, including the emergency brake, installed new shocks, and cleaned and detailed the suspension 
03-30-2012, 07:35 AM
#23
i bought them years ago on fleabay from a company called iRotors. they were zinc plated (silver finish), but i gave them a bath in a yellow di-chromate solution that i had left over from my old days restoring/coloring carburetor castings. that's what gave them the gold finish. i was visiting my son a couple weeks ago, and he now owns my 85. the rotors still have the gold finish, and are not showing any signs of corrosion on surfaces outside the pad contact area. those rotors have to be 6-7 years old, and over 50K miles on them. they never warped, and are still running true. seems to me, the boxes were marked "made in canada". as i recall, i paid $230-$250 for 4 rotors and ceramic pads
Last edited by Joe C; 03-30-2012 at 07:45 AM.
10-11-2013, 09:12 AM
#25
Advanced
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Ontario. 85, 523cid BBC ,C4-ZR2,Z51, DRippie's actual '87 SCCA Fox RShox, ZF6, HoosierR6, Plated.
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Spicer Part Numbers and Additional Operational Info. for this repair
After roughly 15 seasons or so, the grease-able U-joints
in the rear axle of my ZR-2, 523 C.I.D.,ZF-6, '85 C-4
chassis finally need to be replaced because one of them,
the outboard passenger side, was not accessible, and is now
showing signs of excessive wear.
Extensive homework supports other contributors on this
thread who choose the non-grease-able replacement
components due to the facts that:
1) The life expectancy of the grease-able U-joints are
less than 10% longer than the Solid ones, IF they are
properly lubricated on a regular basis.
1.a)If NOT serviced properly, the life expectancy of the
grease-able units is LESS than the solid ones by up to 50%
depending on applied torque loads, operating RPM and
deflected ranges of motion.
2) The Grease-able lubrication specification from Spicer
requires that new grease is emitted from All 4 Corners to
properly evacuate air, debris, old grease. Very messy.
3) As soon as you drive with your freshly greased units,
heat, expansion, rotational forces almost immediately
can cause grease to be thrown 360 degrees around the
circumference of the rotating parts. Very, very messy.
4) The torque capacity of the hollow, grease-able units
is roughly 35% LESS than the solid units due to the
superior strength of the Non-grease-able solid core.
5) The solid units are maintenance free and clean from day one.
Have had the Solid, High Performance, Non-grease-able
U-Joints in stock for a long time and was just scanning
threads for the latest service tips/tricks available and
found this source.
Many of those aspects of this repair are discussed here, but
there are no part numbers to aid current or future readers,
so here is a secure link to another thread for the same repair
that includes Part Numbers for this repair, accurate to this date.
http://tinyurl.com/ky2b5tk
Please Note: Before you assume it's your U-joints
or rear axle bearings that need replacing and you
automatically diss-assemble everything, you may want
to review the diagnostic process contained in the above
link.
Many of the symptoms described in all these threads
can be just a loose, Out-Board, rear axle nut that only
needs 20 minutes to be re-torque'd.
........................................ ............
in the rear axle of my ZR-2, 523 C.I.D.,ZF-6, '85 C-4
chassis finally need to be replaced because one of them,
the outboard passenger side, was not accessible, and is now
showing signs of excessive wear.
Extensive homework supports other contributors on this
thread who choose the non-grease-able replacement
components due to the facts that:
1) The life expectancy of the grease-able U-joints are
less than 10% longer than the Solid ones, IF they are
properly lubricated on a regular basis.
1.a)If NOT serviced properly, the life expectancy of the
grease-able units is LESS than the solid ones by up to 50%
depending on applied torque loads, operating RPM and
deflected ranges of motion.
2) The Grease-able lubrication specification from Spicer
requires that new grease is emitted from All 4 Corners to
properly evacuate air, debris, old grease. Very messy.
3) As soon as you drive with your freshly greased units,
heat, expansion, rotational forces almost immediately
can cause grease to be thrown 360 degrees around the
circumference of the rotating parts. Very, very messy.
4) The torque capacity of the hollow, grease-able units
is roughly 35% LESS than the solid units due to the
superior strength of the Non-grease-able solid core.
5) The solid units are maintenance free and clean from day one.
Have had the Solid, High Performance, Non-grease-able
U-Joints in stock for a long time and was just scanning
threads for the latest service tips/tricks available and
found this source.
Many of those aspects of this repair are discussed here, but
there are no part numbers to aid current or future readers,
so here is a secure link to another thread for the same repair
that includes Part Numbers for this repair, accurate to this date.
http://tinyurl.com/ky2b5tk
Please Note: Before you assume it's your U-joints
or rear axle bearings that need replacing and you
automatically diss-assemble everything, you may want
to review the diagnostic process contained in the above
link.
Many of the symptoms described in all these threads
can be just a loose, Out-Board, rear axle nut that only
needs 20 minutes to be re-torque'd.
........................................ ............
03-31-2016, 11:11 AM
#27
