C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Ok lowered it and it's not enough. what do you think of this lowering idea?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-26-2012, 01:13 PM
  #1  
turbotim23
Pro
Thread Starter
 
turbotim23's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default Ok lowered it and it's not enough. what do you think of this lowering idea?

Hi I lowered my 93 corvette by cutting off the rubber off spring center and ends and using the plastic wedges. I sanded the spring wedges to bring it down a little more yet. I wanted it low but to be able to raise it if I wanted so I set it up like the c5 corvettes with a bolt in the spring ends that will able me to raise it maybe 1"- 1 1/2". After getting back on the road and driving it awhile, it is still too high and that is with spring directly on lower control arm. I didn't even put in the raising bolt into the spring ends yet. What I'm thinking of doing is cutting control arm where spring sits and rewelding and building it slightly lower. This will allow me to drop it as low as I want it and the bolt in spring ends will allow me to raise it where ever I want it. what do you think/ Thanks Tim

Last edited by turbotim23; 03-26-2012 at 01:41 PM.
Old 03-26-2012, 01:43 PM
  #2  
merlot566jka
Burning Brakes
 
merlot566jka's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: Burleson Texas
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 5 Posts

Default

yikes. I wouldnt do that. I have a 96, and ive cut the wedges and removed the pads on the ends of the springs, and I am about to rub the inner skirt. Maybe try a softer spring?

or coil overs.

IMO, cutting and welding the a-arms is risky business! Coil overs would be much more safe.
Old 03-26-2012, 01:50 PM
  #3  
Aardwolf
Race Director
 
Aardwolf's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: WI
Posts: 12,514
Received 377 Likes on 312 Posts

Default

Corvette challenge cars:

Old 03-26-2012, 01:55 PM
  #4  
Black89Z51
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Black89Z51's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2010
Location: Newport News Virginia
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

VB&P makes their springs with a bolt that's adjustable just like you are talking about. Plus, their springs aren't near as bowed as the factory spring. The VB&P kit also allows to adjust corner weights.
Old 03-26-2012, 01:56 PM
  #5  
Crepitus
Burning Brakes
 
Crepitus's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: East Wenatchee (2hours from n e where) WA
Posts: 1,249
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

I have seen an other member do that on this board. I like the idea it opens up a lot of possibility's like adjustable ride hight, ect. I would like to know what alloy we are working with as well as any existing heat treat (doubtful)
Old 03-26-2012, 02:01 PM
  #6  
Crepitus
Burning Brakes
 
Crepitus's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: East Wenatchee (2hours from n e where) WA
Posts: 1,249
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Hi guys! Aard and BlkZ posted while I was typing. Challange car is a very interesting photo. obviously a weldable alloy. One of the outfits that ran challange cars should have the answers. DRM, Van Steel & ?

OT:Z thanks for the fuel sys pics Thats how I am gonna do mine.
Old 03-26-2012, 02:05 PM
  #7  
PLRX
Team Owner

 
PLRX's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Riverside County Southern California
Posts: 34,988
Received 501 Likes on 342 Posts
Co-winner 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C4 of Year
2016 C7 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20


Default

-Looks like you have done all possible lowering it is to be done within the OEM front monospring.

Would be cheaper if you buy a monospring designed to execute all your goals.

Call Van Steel and speak to Paul. He will be able to help you and may recommend you the extreme adjustable front monospring.
Old 03-26-2012, 02:17 PM
  #8  
383vett
Race Director
 
383vett's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2003
Location: moraga ca
Posts: 17,572
Received 1,544 Likes on 1,044 Posts

Default

If you are going through all that to lower the car, I would just swap out the spring for a set of coilovers.
Old 03-26-2012, 05:57 PM
  #9  
littlesk8cracker
Drifting
 
littlesk8cracker's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2007
Location: woodbury new jersey
Posts: 1,315
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 11 Posts

Default

i swapped out the spring on my 94 convert with a vbandp sport spring. i had it sent with the lowering wedges. the car is slammed, i can barely fit my finger between the tire and fender. this is about as low as anyone would want to go. cars very comfortable with the stiffer springs, shocks, poly bushings, lowering
Old 03-26-2012, 07:53 PM
  #10  
turbotim23
Pro
Thread Starter
 
turbotim23's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Well my car is lowered but I couldn't call it slammed now nor is it close to rubbing the inner fender skirt yet either. I tried it this way as I didn't have to rebuild the upper shock mounts or buy coilovers. I'm not planning on riding around all the time with it slammed. I thought it might be cool to drop it down for car shows or autocross and ride high for less bottoming out around town. Thanks Aarwolf that photo shows it could be done . Plus then I could use the c5 lowering bolt,they use a plastic **** end on the lower end of bolt. Right now I just have a steel bolt. I did line the lower control arm pocket with plastic, but I'm worried the bolt will wear through the plastic and harm lower control arm.
Old 03-27-2012, 07:40 AM
  #11  
5abivt
Safety Car
 
5abivt's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2002
Location: Toronto ontario
Posts: 4,658
Received 77 Likes on 59 Posts

Default

Are you driving the car after setting it down? It could be the shock keeping the height high.

Do you have the base suspension? The softer spring also has a much more curved profile. I swapped to the stiffest spring gm made in the front and side by side the difference was dramatic. the centre of the stiff spring sat very low compared to the base spring when set side by side on the floor. i actually had to raise the car in the front and rear (swapped rear spring as well).

This is raised up a bit because doing top speed blasts the skirt was contacting pavement. not fun at 185 mph
Old 03-27-2012, 02:28 PM
  #12  
turbotim23
Pro
Thread Starter
 
turbotim23's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Yes I drove it awhile to see if it would come down any and the first thing I did when it was too high was take the shocks out to see if they were holding it up any. They were some but not a lot. I do have the base springs though,I'll look into getting some stiffer springs. I really didn't want to get too stiff a spring, I've drove cars with really stiff racing type springs before. It wasn't my idea of fun driving with them on the street.
Old 03-27-2012, 03:05 PM
  #13  
leesvet
Safety Car
 
leesvet's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Received 20 Likes on 14 Posts

Default

I can tell you from experience that you're looking at 2 possibilities...

the hard road that is expensive and even dangerous,

or

the simple route that involves swapping springs like 5abivt is talking about.
This is because the more arc the monospring has the higher the ride height will be. The stiffer the spring the flatter the spring and lower the ride height.
Easy and safe. You want stiff at high speeds and being factory components there is little question of reliability. I dropped mine a good 1.5" rear and about 1" front where it now sits level.

And I have enjoyed the sound of the air-dam grinding the pavement at high speed as the car squats and absorbs the 1" of ground clearance that it has at park......thats the quick way to adjust your new Big-Mouth scoop.......
Old 03-27-2012, 03:06 PM
  #14  
leesvet
Safety Car
 
leesvet's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Received 20 Likes on 14 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 5abivt
Are you driving the car after setting it down? It could be the shock keeping the height high.

Do you have the base suspension? The softer spring also has a much more curved profile. I swapped to the stiffest spring gm made in the front and side by side the difference was dramatic. the centre of the stiff spring sat very low compared to the base spring when set side by side on the floor. i actually had to raise the car in the front and rear (swapped rear spring as well).

This is raised up a bit because doing top speed blasts the skirt was contacting pavement. not fun at 185 mph

Gawd, I love that color !

Old 03-27-2012, 05:55 PM
  #15  
Kubs
Le Mans Master
 
Kubs's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 8,879
Received 1,773 Likes on 948 Posts
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11

Default

This is my solution to get the car lower:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...he-ground.html







This picture is with no engine, transmission, or radiator. Basically very little weight on the nose and I can still get it this low. I can Also raise it back to factory height.
Old 03-27-2012, 07:31 PM
  #16  
turbotim23
Pro
Thread Starter
 
turbotim23's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

You basicly did the same as me but left the spring below the control arm. mmm interesting I bet you didn't have to bond a t nut in the spring end either, that's much easier. I worry about the T nut cracking out when I adjust it sometime down the road. When I did mine I was sure it was going to drop like a rock almost too low. I thought I'd be riding around with all the weight on the adjusting bolt end alone, Didn't happen. I think I'll look for a stiffer spring if that doesn't drop it enough I'll try your way.
Old 03-27-2012, 07:46 PM
  #17  
Kubs
Le Mans Master
 
Kubs's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 8,879
Received 1,773 Likes on 948 Posts
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11

Default

Originally Posted by turbotim23
You basicly did the same as me but left the spring below the control arm. mmm interesting I bet you didn't have to bond a t nut in the spring end either, that's much easier. I worry about the T nut cracking out when I adjust it sometime down the road. When I did mine I was sure it was going to drop like a rock almost too low. I thought I'd be riding around with all the weight on the adjusting bolt end alone, Didn't happen. I think I'll look for a stiffer spring if that doesn't drop it enough I'll try your way.
I didnt bond anything. I used delrin spring mounts from Banski Motorsports. They are made for the rear of a C4 but I just drilled a hole in the spring and a hole in the control arm and put the spring kit on either side. Very simple.

http://banskimotorsports.com/Pin_Top...nt_description

Get notified of new replies

To Ok lowered it and it's not enough. what do you think of this lowering idea?

Old 03-27-2012, 07:54 PM
  #18  
1991Z07
Safety Car
 
1991Z07's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 4,537
Received 72 Likes on 49 Posts

Default



My Z07 with the lowering kit looks JUST like this...

Of course...mine is white and looks better



But that blue is very nice as well.

You "can" do whatever you want...it's YOUR car. But (frankly) I would never go the route of cutting the LCA and welding the pad lower OR going the route Kubs did...

Quite honestly I'd never want the spring (or the bolts) below the lower control arm. A small off-track excursion in the wrong place and you are well & truly screwed.

My new track car is getting DRM FX3 coil-overs installed. Infinite adjustment, and I can get it as low as I want.
Old 03-27-2012, 08:10 PM
  #19  
IAFF alumni
Tech Contributor
 
IAFF alumni's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Annapolis MD
Posts: 525
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1991Z07
I like that stance.
Old 03-27-2012, 08:48 PM
  #20  
Kubs
Le Mans Master
 
Kubs's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 8,879
Received 1,773 Likes on 948 Posts
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11

Default

Originally Posted by 1991Z07

Quite honestly I'd never want the spring (or the bolts) below the lower control arm. A small off-track excursion in the wrong place and you are well & truly screwed.

My new track car is getting DRM FX3 coil-overs installed. Infinite adjustment, and I can get it as low as I want.
The spring bolt is very close to, or inside the wheel barrel (depending on wheel width) and moves with the wheel over bumps and such. If something was going to take out the bolt on a off course excursion it would most likely cause damage whether the spring was above or below the arm.


Quick Reply: Ok lowered it and it's not enough. what do you think of this lowering idea?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:58 PM.