C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

carb swap car quit wont start

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Old 03-07-2012, 02:00 PM
  #21  
383vett
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
Looking good. The wiring could use some work yet but I certainly understand the "good enough to get it going" approach.

I helped a friend relocate the fuse panel to the back of his Eagle Talon. All the "extensions" are the same color. The running gag now is that any electrical gremlin must have something to do with the green wire.

What sort of air cleaner do you have to run to clear the hood?
Wiring, what wiring? Looks like hedge trimmers are in order. Carbs need no wiring. As Nathon mentioned, it's going to be tough getting that under the hood with an air cleaner.
Old 03-07-2012, 02:03 PM
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Nathan Plemons
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Originally Posted by project C4
This is not a "good enough to get it going approach" by any stretch of the imagination.
I am not even close to being done yet. In fact I am just getting started. If you notice the intake is not even bolted down yet.
I am just test fitting every thing now.
Yeah I noticed there is a lot of other stuff missing. There really isn't anything wrong with a good enough to get it going approach, in fact sometimes it can be helpful. Nothing sucks worse than having to tear back into your pristine wiring because of some small detail or thing that was overlooked.

Please don't think I meant any offense by the comments, I didn't.

BTW if you haven't heard that hooker header / flowmaster combination, you're gonna love it.
Old 03-07-2012, 02:21 PM
  #23  
cv67
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I would really look into running a line from the regulator back to the tank not sure that stock pump is going to like being deadheaded like that. Longevity thing.

Good on you for getting rid of that firehazard the PO called a fuel line sheesh. Scary repairs being done out there.
Old 03-07-2012, 02:33 PM
  #24  
project C4
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
Yeah I noticed there is a lot of other stuff missing. There really isn't anything wrong with a good enough to get it going approach, in fact sometimes it can be helpful. Nothing sucks worse than having to tear back into your pristine wiring because of some small detail or thing that was overlooked.

Please don't think I meant any offense by the comments, I didn't.

BTW if you haven't heard that hooker header / flowmaster combination, you're gonna love it.
No offense taken. I was just stating the facts.
and yes I love the way it sounds. The car ran perfect before I ripped the TPI off if it.
Old 03-07-2012, 02:39 PM
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mavidatt
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car was definately flooded. got it started yesterday morning after letting sit all night. However still going to have the fuel pump changed and see how it does after this.
Old 03-07-2012, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
A car needs fuel and spark to run. Pull the air cleaner off. See if the accelerator pump squirts gas. If yes, check for spark while cranking. One of the above should be missing. If all works, your motor may be flooded. Check the float levels of the carb. When I carbed my 84, the underhood temps got so high the fuel would perculate and flood the motor.
Coolant temp has never been above 190, have a fan that kicks on at 185.
Old 03-07-2012, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mavidatt
Coolant temp has never been above 190, have a fan that kicks on at 185.
Also when it flooded and quit on me the coolant temperature was only around 130-140
Old 03-07-2012, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
Gonna go out on a limb and say it is not the fuel pump. If it was a volume problem you would have problems under load but it would idle. Sounds like you are having much the opposite problem. I am betting on a float level or a heat problem as others have mentioned.
When under load it does act up as well, it will stutter under accel and also when going up hills it will stutter and shake a bit like its having trouble. Timing may be off a few degrees, but this is not the main problem.
Old 03-07-2012, 03:54 PM
  #29  
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There is no reason why the stock pump shouldn't be able to supply the carb with a proper regulator. I'm betting on too much fuel rather than too little. Incorrect jetting, incorrect float level, too rich an idle circuit, etc, etc. Lots of things you check before throwing a pump at it.
Old 03-11-2012, 08:46 AM
  #30  
MR NICE
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Did the carb swap a couple years back,with other mods very happy you need a return reg around $100.00 i would ditch that air cleaner also,check float level and the needle and seat in the carb for hanging up flooding motor,that reg might not bring it down enough did you put a pressure gauge on it?try a 650 holley double pumper carb i posted some new pics in my corvette photos,close up of regulator setup,return line comes out the bottom i have it stainless braided with 6an fittings to the stock hard return line and to the stock fuel filter,the rubber hose is a fire waiting to happen so is the foam air cleaner,the weiand stealth intake will fit with a drop base air cleaner

Last edited by MR NICE; 03-11-2012 at 09:42 AM.
Old 03-11-2012, 11:06 AM
  #31  
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Nice carb setup Dave.

650 double pumper...

Last edited by project C4; 03-11-2012 at 11:19 AM.
Old 03-11-2012, 11:15 AM
  #32  
project C4
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Is all this stuff in your profile still underneath that carb setup now...

" Bow Tie Phase 3 heads,Comp 268 XFI Cam,Comp Mag 1.6 Rockers,Headers true duals,no cat. "

That ought to run pretty good. I have always wanted a set of those heads. I am interested in how those heads run. cant find much info about them online.
Old 03-11-2012, 11:28 AM
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its probably been suggested , but disconnect the fuel line , try to start it with the fuel in the bowls, should run for a few minutes, if it does , your issue is probably to much fuel as suggested prev. if it wont run, your issue is spark , also suggested prev. carb setups are real simple, gas ,spark,air, also probably suggested earlier.
Old 03-11-2012, 11:38 AM
  #34  
red L98
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Originally Posted by 383vett
A car needs fuel and spark to run. Pull the air cleaner off. See if the accelerator pump squirts gas. If yes, check for spark while cranking. One of the above should be missing. If all works, your motor may be flooded. Check the float levels of the carb. When I carbed my 84, the underhood temps got so high the fuel would perculate and flood the motor.

X2 ...
Old 03-17-2012, 10:33 AM
  #35  
MR NICE
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Originally Posted by project C4
Is all this stuff in your profile still underneath that carb setup now...

" Bow Tie Phase 3 heads,Comp 268 XFI Cam,Comp Mag 1.6 Rockers,Headers true duals,no cat. "

That ought to run pretty good. I have always wanted a set of those heads. I am interested in how those heads run. cant find much info about them online.
Yes same stuff, It ran great till my last fun time with a gto i hurt someting in the motor,has a rattle in front of the motor just above the timing cover?any ideas?i like the heads but i guess the aftermarket alum heads flow better unless ported,i may be going 406 or 383 depending on my problem,hope har balancer,or timing gear chain or cover issue?took left side valve cover off all good,going to look at the right side today,any suggestion would be helpful not wanting to do more than i have to.i need a younger back to bend over that car

Last edited by MR NICE; 03-17-2012 at 10:42 AM. Reason: add too
Old 03-17-2012, 11:20 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by MR NICE
Yes same stuff, It ran great till my last fun time with a gto i hurt someting in the motor,has a rattle in front of the motor just above the timing cover?any ideas?i like the heads but i guess the aftermarket alum heads flow better unless ported,i may be going 406 or 383 depending on my problem,hope har balancer,or timing gear chain or cover issue?took left side valve cover off all good,going to look at the right side today,any suggestion would be helpful not wanting to do more than i have to.i need a younger back to bend over that car

Stretched timing chain?

I can't think what would be 'above' the timing cover that would rattle unless you have a collapsed lifter.

Even then, it would be a loud 'tick'.

Get a stethoscope and listen to the engine.

If you don't have one, use a piece of 5/8 hose.

Oh.. make sure you remove the serpentine belt first.

Wouldn't want any fingers to come up missing!



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