Iown1badvette

As a L98 383 owner it can be done!

Marv02

Sorry about the tune injectors for me it gets very hot where I live in the summer so I had to up grade the cooling bigger radiator etc the list go's on it more than just dropping a stroker kit.

If your car just a toy you can put up on jack stands a take your time building it a good thing but it a DD and it need to get done in a weekend get all your ducks in a row before you start.

I had a flat tappet block in my 86 I took it out and put a truck 4 bolt main roller block in I would go with a roller block for many reasons plus with a roller block you don't have to buy those high cost retro lifters to make it a roller motor.

Flat tappet works but roller the way to go if your going do all that work.

When I had the 355 motor it was a flat tappet I regretted not going to a roller motor when that motor went bad athen put the 383 I made sure it was a roller motor.

Marv02

I was thinking about what you have to spend if you have a low milage motor you could think about a good set of heads LT-4hot type cam and a good intake and cat bat exhaust, It might be a couple hundred more than you have but you make some more power.

Heads for a good price that work:
http://www.profilerperformance.com/r.../sbc-23-degree

Lt4 type Falt tappet Cam:
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2324&gid=297

Intake:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-3860/

Runners:
http://ws6project.com/user_stor/cata...th=237_246_148

Cat Back:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050F

As for Rocker Arms I would use full roller Rocker arms These are the ones I like to Use No there not cheep but they will last you:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-1602-16/
If you look around you can find a better pirice I did when I purchased my set.

Chip set:
http://www.pcmforless.com/index.php?...pper&Itemid=76

Davejs

Swapping to Vortec heads and Intake manifold and runners will add some power. Now if the bottom end is weak or rings are worn your looking at even more money. Check ThirdGen.ORG in the for sale section, I did see a used ZZ4 383 for $1000 long block. Getting that with new rings and bearings, gaskets and your halfway done.

cumbercr

I've seen some posts here that claim converting to a factory roller cam block will save money because of the cost of retofit roller lifters. I did the research when I built my 396 and I found the cost difference to be almost zero. When you convert to a factory roller block, you also have to consider the cost of a block ($200), 1 piece rear main seal oil pan ($100), flex plate ($60), and lifter retainer ($100). Add them up and that's the cost of retrofit lifters.

I went with a factory roller block because I was replacing the block, flex plate and oil pan anyway. My block had already been bored .060 over, so it was finished. If you intend to upgrade to a 4 bolt main block, then by all means go with a factory roller. Your performance goals will dictate if you need a 4 bolt main block.

Marv02

If you build from a 1986 block and Newer you can use the same flex plate same 1 piece main seal retainer oil pan ect.

But if you going to run a high flow oil pump, you going to need a bigger oil pan you going to have get a new pan anyways

As for the lifters, lifter spider comes with cam plate all OEM you can pick all up in a set for $200.00 new.

If you use a truck block 4 bolt main or some 1986 block and newer have the boss in them you just need to tap the bosses for the spider plate and the cam walk plate.

I think my stock 1986 L98 block had the bosses in it but I sold it I didn't look They say the 2 bolt main can hold up to to 500 HP I read some where.

The Block I used was out of a truck 4 bolt main with the bosses I had to suface the bosses to make sure they were flat with a die grinder lay the spider plate on top of the bosses made sure the fingers for the lifters were over the lifter bores.

Drill and tap the bosses, installed the cam so you cam put the cam plate over the cam center the plate drill and tap those hole there you go a roller block.

cv67

only cost difference between the two is some mock up/clearancing for the rods other than that parts are the SAME cost as a 350. I spent roughly $100+-

Lotta bang for the buck right there.

More than any bolt on, air foil K and N all the basic do next to nothing mods that cost close to that..



If you are searching for more power youd be buying cam/head anyway for the 350 so whats the difference really? Almost nothing.