C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

700R4 yoke, ring

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Old 11-29-2011, 08:42 PM
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anesthes
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Default 700R4 yoke, ring

Can someone please remind me what the purpose of this ring is on a 700R4 yoke?



Thinking of using the yoke for a different application and want to press that ring off. It can't be a balance ring because it's not offset in any way, i'm thinking it's just a vibration damper?

-- Joe
Old 11-29-2011, 09:01 PM
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WVZR-1
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Originally Posted by anesthes
Can someone please remind me what the purpose of this ring is on a 700R4 yoke?



Thinking of using the yoke for a different application and want to press that ring off. It can't be a balance ring because it's not offset in any way, i'm thinking it's just a vibration damper?

-- Joe
A 700R4 27 spline yoke is rather inexpensive. Why wouldn't you just buy new? You'll need a balance anyway and you'll have a much better sealing surface!! I don't understand the significance of the tape, if you need a longer barrel, removing the ring won't accomplish what you want.
Old 11-29-2011, 09:08 PM
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anesthes
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
A 700R4 27 spline yoke is rather inexpensive. Why wouldn't you just buy new? You'll need a balance anyway and you'll have a much better sealing surface!! I don't understand the significance of the tape, if you need a longer barrel, removing the ring won't accomplish what you want.
The purpose was for another forum, comparing the yoke to another yoke commonly found on a 70s TH350



The C4 yoke, if I remove the ring (I actually did remove it), and put it in my lathe to true the surface will give me more clearance. (vs shortening the driveshaft). It would give me 3/4" more room before the knuckle of the yoke crashes into the seal.

I was told the same thing by a forum buddy, so driveshafts are really balanced to the yoke huh? You would think both would be neutral balance!

-- Joe
Old 11-29-2011, 10:20 PM
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The drive shaft assembly needs "the balance"! That's why it's recommended that when you do u-joints you make sure it's assembled just like it was previously to avoid an issue. I've worked with techs that have a drive-shaft rebalanced every time they do u-joints. Overkill? I never thought so!

The dampener is put on the yoke to help relieve vibrations that are inherent to all rotating shafts, balanced or not. A smaller diameter aluminum tube that is short will generally have either a dampener or a cardboard tube inside of the drive-shaft tube that absorbs vibrations and and reduces an audible clunk/thud from a hollow tube when stressed.

A D44 - ZF drive-shaft is done with the cardboard liner. You can "rattle" them!

I've been told you don't just swap a slip-yoke to alter the length of a drive-shaft for an application. You use the required slip-yoke and weld the tube and end-yokes to length. This I believe should be "your" approach! Think!!

In a strictly performance application many feel there's no need for the dampner. If it's professionally balanced on a quality machine it likely isn't!

Last edited by WVZR-1; 11-29-2011 at 10:23 PM.
Old 11-29-2011, 11:46 PM
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I wish I took a picture of the slip yoke that came off my 86 - it was worn on one side.
kinda like it was offset machined from use.
Old 11-30-2011, 12:31 AM
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383vett
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I removed mine when I was running the stock drivetrain. No ill effects.
Old 11-30-2011, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
The dampener is put on the yoke to help relieve vibrations that are inherent to all rotating shafts, balanced or not. A smaller diameter aluminum tube that is short will generally have either a dampener or a cardboard tube inside of the drive-shaft tube that absorbs vibrations and and reduces an audible clunk/thud from a hollow tube when stressed.
BINGO!
The dampener is the GM version of a band-aid. From what I understand its purpose was/is to reduce the "clunk" noise which is generated from "backlash" (within the transmission) under low speed conditions. I've removed them without issue other than the low speed "clunk".

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