Brake/wheel/suspension parts
06-19-2011, 12:49 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Brake/wheel/suspension parts
Thought I would pass long some of these parts and part numbers that worked well.
Lug nuts (threaded the whole way) and 1/2" longer ARP wheel studs:
I use C5 rear thin spokes (18x9.5") all around and have Toyo 888 shaved scrubs on there (275/35/18) and added 1/2" spacers. The C5 wheels sit inboard compared to stock (back space I believe is 65 mm compared to 56 mm on the stock 17" wheels) and I wanted to try having extra track width. For wheel spacers I used part ALL44121 1/2" spacers, $19 from Summit.
Decided to try (C5 fit) Pronto rotors, they were $30. I used some BBQ paint to keep the rust at bay.
They have been good so far. I had been using Centric but for some reason they had a good price on one side but were double in cost on the other side.
Custom rotor black out kit!
Pic of the stud fitment also note finish machining on rotor after paint was professionally removed.
Why not to use drilled rotors:
I know, not good at the track! But I got them for free so decided to use them up.
Spindle ducts have been doing well. The madvet brake duct is still hanging in there. I needed a new front spoiler quite awhile ago so went with the ducted one. The tubes are half electrical tape by now.
Since I started tuning I replaced the high mileage 28 lbs LT4 injectors with Bosch III 32 lbs from FIC. $200 shipped, they have been working well. Tuning has been fun!
Edit, after cutting down the alignment spacers for more camber the car really handles much better. Around 2.5° for no cost, all shims are removed and the conical spacers I cut down around 1/8". Do this first! I also put poly bushings in the front control arms and zerks.
Also got some heim links for the rear suspension. Kits are pretty expensive ($1,000+) and you can save $600 by ordering parts yourself and making spacers. The drivers side install on my car was easy. The passenger side camber rod was froze in place. That was a joy, it had to be cut, and the bushing sleeve pounded open. The camber bushings were toast. They were the second worst bushing on my car after the rear sway bar end links. Rubber bushings should not have been used there. With the heim links the suspension is working way better!!!
Lug nuts (threaded the whole way) and 1/2" longer ARP wheel studs:
I use C5 rear thin spokes (18x9.5") all around and have Toyo 888 shaved scrubs on there (275/35/18) and added 1/2" spacers. The C5 wheels sit inboard compared to stock (back space I believe is 65 mm compared to 56 mm on the stock 17" wheels) and I wanted to try having extra track width. For wheel spacers I used part ALL44121 1/2" spacers, $19 from Summit.
Decided to try (C5 fit) Pronto rotors, they were $30. I used some BBQ paint to keep the rust at bay.
They have been good so far. I had been using Centric but for some reason they had a good price on one side but were double in cost on the other side.
Custom rotor black out kit!
Pic of the stud fitment also note finish machining on rotor after paint was professionally removed.
Why not to use drilled rotors:
I know, not good at the track! But I got them for free so decided to use them up.
Spindle ducts have been doing well. The madvet brake duct is still hanging in there. I needed a new front spoiler quite awhile ago so went with the ducted one. The tubes are half electrical tape by now.
Since I started tuning I replaced the high mileage 28 lbs LT4 injectors with Bosch III 32 lbs from FIC. $200 shipped, they have been working well. Tuning has been fun!
Edit, after cutting down the alignment spacers for more camber the car really handles much better. Around 2.5° for no cost, all shims are removed and the conical spacers I cut down around 1/8". Do this first! I also put poly bushings in the front control arms and zerks.
Also got some heim links for the rear suspension. Kits are pretty expensive ($1,000+) and you can save $600 by ordering parts yourself and making spacers. The drivers side install on my car was easy. The passenger side camber rod was froze in place. That was a joy, it had to be cut, and the bushing sleeve pounded open. The camber bushings were toast. They were the second worst bushing on my car after the rear sway bar end links. Rubber bushings should not have been used there. With the heim links the suspension is working way better!!!
Last edited by Aardwolf; 02-06-2012 at 08:17 AM.
