Fuel pressure results, should I pull my new injectors?
#21
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If you guys must know my testing procedure. I tied a string around each injector then I attached the other end of the string to a Tomato Soup can. I put my ear to the can and confirmed all the injectors were working. By the way it was a Cambell's soup can so I know my test was accurate.
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#24
If you guys must know my testing procedure. I tied a string around each injector then I attached the other end of the string to a Tomato Soup can. I put my ear to the can and confirmed all the injectors were working. By the way it was a Cambell's soup can so I know my test was accurate.
#27
Some injectors (like my 24lb SVOs) are shorter than others. (Some are longer too.) When using the shorter injectors, the clips must be used to avoid issues. I raised this issue when installing mine.
Jon assurred me they would work IF I used the clips. And, they do. Without them, I have to wonder if you were sucking air around any/all of the injectors. I don't see how you could have avoided an issue w/o the clips.
At least, that's what seems probable to me -- assuming the injector body of the problem injectors are shorter than the OEM Multecs.
Note: With shorter injectors, the clip holds the injector at a stationary depth in the rail. That, in turn, controls the depth of penetration into the manifold. As long as the injector goes into the manifold far enough to create a seal around the O-ring, you should be fine. Mine only penetrate about the thickness of the O-ring. They look like the pick of yours. And, as mentioned work fine. Jon mentioned (to me on the phone) that many cars/injectors have this configuration "issue".
Jon assurred me they would work IF I used the clips. And, they do. Without them, I have to wonder if you were sucking air around any/all of the injectors. I don't see how you could have avoided an issue w/o the clips.
At least, that's what seems probable to me -- assuming the injector body of the problem injectors are shorter than the OEM Multecs.
Note: With shorter injectors, the clip holds the injector at a stationary depth in the rail. That, in turn, controls the depth of penetration into the manifold. As long as the injector goes into the manifold far enough to create a seal around the O-ring, you should be fine. Mine only penetrate about the thickness of the O-ring. They look like the pick of yours. And, as mentioned work fine. Jon mentioned (to me on the phone) that many cars/injectors have this configuration "issue".
The shorter injector body is held down by the fuel rail itself. Push the inj all the way in and down and seat them together with the rail making them snap in place. Thats seating them. If they are not down in the hole they are unable to spray into the port properly. They can;t go anywhere with the rails bolted on top of them. The ONLY downside is that you can no longer remove runners with the rail in place. Now you have to pull the rails to get runners off with the short body inj.
RED...
You keep talking about the o2 sensor being white. I know what that means, but what do the spark plugs look like? If its all the plugs are bright white, then you have a TUNE problem. The ECM is doing its best to give fuel but it can only deliver the band width thats been tuned in. It has parameters. All this because some inj were ticking? Thats what free moving fuel injectors do...I'd be more concerned with one that did NOT tick...
Try a different chip.
Its sounds like your ECM is issuing inj pulse width based on bad data or the wrong tune.
Clean the memory and start over. The ECM uses the BLM to run/tune when real time data is not available or when the conditions have changed.
What else has been done to this motor that it gets more air? no screens? air cleaner? exhaust work? was that intake ported?
Not getting enough fuel is the same as getting too much air. Its the ratio that matters, when one changes the other HAS to. Should, if you want it to run right. Why did'nt you just get 24 lb/hr and dial down the pressure to adjust? Jon will tell you about that...
#28
Melting Slicks
#29
Le Mans Master
I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here - but unfortunately, there are 2 sides to every coin. I used this same vendor a few years ago - 2 different sets (both 3's but discovered after the fact that each set had significantly different coil resistances by design however was assured that they would work the same - not) had/have 2 totally different fully documented problems with both sets - which the vendor was & is fully aware of. Extremely frustrated, I couldn't afford to gamble on installing a 3rd set from them. Huge waste of my time, labor and money
My solution was the same as the OP's - I installed a new set of bosch IIs (from a non CF vendor) and the car ran/runs great once again.
My solution was the same as the OP's - I installed a new set of bosch IIs (from a non CF vendor) and the car ran/runs great once again.
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I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here - but unfortunately, there are 2 sides to every coin. I used this same vendor a few years ago - 2 different sets (both 3's but discovered after the fact that each set had significantly different coil resistances by design however was assured that they would work the same - not) had/have 2 totally different fully documented problems with both sets - which the vendor was & is fully aware of. Extremely frustrated, I couldn't afford to gamble on installing a 3rd set from them. Huge waste of my time, labor and money
My solution was the same as the OP's - I installed a new set of bosch IIs (from a non CF vendor) and the car ran/runs great once again.
My solution was the same as the OP's - I installed a new set of bosch IIs (from a non CF vendor) and the car ran/runs great once again.
He is going to send me some Bosch 3's. I will give them a shot because I am now an expert at swapping them out. If these don't work I will cut my losses.
This has cost me several hours of labor and frustation thinking everything, but, the brand new injectors was my problem. I also paid $200.00 to have the engine analyzed to rule out the other work I had done to the car along with the new injectors.
The last 4 weeks have been a real drag.
#31
Team Owner
I sent the Delphis back and they said they were only putting out 13# instead of 22#. Ya think that is why I was running so lean?
He is going to send me some Bosch 3's. I will give them a shot because I am now an expert at swapping them out. If these don't work I will cut my losses.
This has cost me several hours of labor and frustation thinking everything, but, the brand new injectors was my problem. I also paid $200.00 to have the engine analyzed to rule out the other work I had done to the car along with the new injectors.
The last 4 weeks have been a real drag.
He is going to send me some Bosch 3's. I will give them a shot because I am now an expert at swapping them out. If these don't work I will cut my losses.
This has cost me several hours of labor and frustation thinking everything, but, the brand new injectors was my problem. I also paid $200.00 to have the engine analyzed to rule out the other work I had done to the car along with the new injectors.
The last 4 weeks have been a real drag.
If Jon's injectors don't work, I think you have other issues. His injectors have been pretty good for me and for many others. I will suggest you send them back every 3 years or so of driving to have them cleaned and tested. No, I am NOT a fan of the "cleaner in a can" snake oil.
Get yourself a scanner. You could have read the BLM and even the O2 sensor voltage with it.
#33
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#34
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I can't remember why exactly but I think Jon said they did. If you are hunting for idle, maybe it is because your min air is not set right.