vittal

Hi guys.

Well my vette is about a week out and I'm starting to pull together everything I need to do so I can get it done and onto the road as soon as possible.

But one thing that I know that's going to baffle me is putting in an aftermarket keyless entry system.

I bought something that I could find and that was in a reasonable price range.

My car is a 95 Vette.

Anyway it's something noname but I'd be very thankful if I could get some pointers on how to install this thing.
Here's what it looks like:


Here's the wiring diagram (not much of it):


Anyway my vette I think already has an alarm system by default as far as I've read on the forum. That's disabled and enabled when car is locked or unlocked. So I'm guessing this has to be wired so that it's disables the alarm.

Can I wire it onto the wire that goes to the door lock/unlock switch and to the trunk switch in the panel?

Thanks for your help.

Bye

oldalaskaman

your 95 should already have the keyless, just buy the fob

vittal

Hey... I know. I don't want a fob. I've already read on how it works and it doesn't work the way I'd like it to work.

All I need is to be able to press a button and get the doors unlocked and another for the hatch. The original fob doesn't do that or more accurately it only unlockes the passenger side door or the hatch. The driver's side door is passive entry only as I understand it.

That's why I want to wire in this system.

Any ideas on where to start. I'm guessing that it would probably not be a good idea to just wire up to the door locks since that would probably not disarm the alarm right?

Thanks again and bye

oldalaskaman

I put that same keyless in my 87, the maker has a tech sheet on the site and a tech line that they answer pretty quickly, I would take advantage of it.

vittal

Unfortunately I bought it of ebay. So the picture that you see above contains all the information I poses.
Do you maybe have a link to what you used?

Thanks for the answer.

Bye

oldalaskaman

Try bulldog keyless entry , the diagram and module are the same as mine. does that have a manufactorers name on it ? or possibly a part number or serial number?

vittal

Well I found another diagram.
Other wise the model is something called BCS-L02.

Here's the diagram:


I think I understand some of this now. I'll probably have to use the F5 diagram. If I understand things correctly.

Thanks for the help.

Powersmokin

If you wire it in just how they show you on the the diagram it will work fine. It will be just like you locked it with the switch the car will not know the difference and will not effect the factory alarm system.

vittal

Great thank you.

So I was correct in thinking of diagram F5.

But what about the hatch? What would be a good place to wire in that feature? To the door switch or the console switch?

By the way where would be the best idea to mount the receiver. I was thinking somewhere under the dash. But I'm guessing that the whole thing would mean dragging out the whole dash?

Thanks again.

Nice day to all.

oldalaskaman

you can put that whole setup in your drivers door and hook the door hatch switch there also, make sure the antenna is fully extended.

GREGGPENN

You could pull off the hush panels under the passenger side. The carpeted one is a PITA to reach the 4-bolt mounting. But, if you can get to it, the alarm module provides good access to many (if not all) the wires you need to splice into. According to Bulldog security, they feel the PS door lock is the "master" lock, so they recommend splicing into that side -- though I believe either will work.

There is a difference in the hatch triggers. For the doors, they'll trigger the relays whenever you press the keyfob. (IOW, you could open the hatch while running down the hwy.) However, the console button is grounded thru the transmission and/or the parking brake. That's designed where you can't trigger the hatch while the car is in motion. So, if you want to leverage that feature, splice into the console ground.

Easiest access to that ground wire would be to pull the PS seat and PS transmission carpet piece. It requires removal of the console lid, and plastic side piece which is attached to that carpet section. 10 screws will get you there IIRC. Maybe the seat belt receiver too. So, if you haven't figured it out yet, the door circuit is much easier to get to, but the bigger risk for connection.

One other thing worth noting...the hatch release does not require an outboard relay (if yours shows it). That's because a relay is already part of the trigger circuit. When you press any of the 3 hatch buttons, it grounds the hatch relay (adjacent to the hatch solonoid). That means another high-power circuit is activated to provide power to trigger the hatch. Just use a negative trigger.

GREGGPENN

That 2nd diagram must provide the schematic for postive, negative, or reversing polarity systems. (Not sure how the F5 pnematic differs.)

I take it you connect F1 to [the appropriate] one of F2, F3, F4, or F5 wiring schemes to complete you're lock/unlock function. When I'm more awake, I might come back and cogitate further. I can tell you our vettes use reversing polarity to lock/unlock the doors (which means F4 or F5 might be the right hook-up.)

oldalaskaman

Bulldog has a menu that wiil tell you the right diagram to use , if you found this you can find that, its on their site also.

GREGGPENN

I've done some thinking but need to know how your system works. Do a test to confirm....

After hooking up the power/ground, apply 12V to the yellow and yellow/black wires of the central door lock. Observe if the white wire goes to 12V when you press lock and the white/black wire goes to 12V when you press the unlock button.

If so, I will suggest how I would hook the system up. If not, report what you observe. (Check the orange and orange/black wires during the test.)

Note: This test can be done with any 12V power supply. You do not need to use the car/car battery as your supply. You could even use a 12V charger if you have one. The goal is to see if the two internal relays operate independently.

Chuck Tribolet

At least on an '87,
You'll need a relay if you want to parallel with the
console switch which is in the middle of the circuit:
+12 to hatch relay coil to console switch to safety
switch in transmission/parking brake to ground.

oldalaskaman

not to flog a dead horse, but I put this same setup in my 87, it has an internal relay, It only uses bout half the wires on the module, the others are for different cars. It all hooked up in the passenger door including the power and ground and antenna, and it all fits in the passenger door and works great. I'm hesitant to advise him cause the color codes between my year to his are different. Bulldog has a list on their site that will tell him which diagram to use with his year . Its a real simple setup.

GREGGPENN

Yeah... Since the consol hatch release button is at the start of that circuit, it would need to be pressed/closed to hook in anywhere downstream. And, you don't want that. Yeah, you would need another relay to parallel around that button/relay combo.

I opted for the easier route and spliced in before a hatch release button. That creates a ground for the hatch relay/solonoid pair. But, it will open if pressed out on the road. My particular fob has a slider cover to protect against unwanted hatch triggers though.

GREGGPENN

According to the schematic, there are at least two internal relays...probably three if you count the hatch trigger. I looked at the 1702 instructions for my install and today. It's pretty hard to correlate their pins to the one shown here. Wiring codes are different and the Bulldog doesn't picture what colors correspond to the legs of the internal relays.

You could get by with 4 of the 6 lead if you splice vs cutting the blue and black lock/unlock wires in. If you cut them, all 6 leads are necessary. Blue and Black are the colors used on the 89 setup and are the two main wires connecting the right/left door switches. If those aren't the same colors for your year, substitute them in this post.

The test I listed above is not only to determine if the two relays are independent, but that they are momentatary -- just like the connection for the door switches in your car. You wouldn't want to keep pumping 12V to your lock/unlock motor after the key fob is pressed. So, one relay gets the lock function, the other unlock. The normally closed loop (to common) is provided to maintain continuity thru your blue and black wires. When triggered, the normally open contact is where you'll bring in 12V to trigger the lock or unlock side of the motor circuit.

vittal

Hi guys.

Thanks for your replies.

I've done a partial hookup of the unit to a power supply and I could hear clicking inside when I pressed the remote buttons (so relays are definitely doing something).
Now I'll have to find some bulbs or something so that I can hook them up and see what happens on those wires.

There is an -/+ option for the hatch release. I'm guessing that's if you need a positive or a negative loop.
I was hoping to hookup the system so that it works like the console button (doesn't open when not in P or N) but if it complicates things I can just as well have it hooked up to the door hatch switch.
I'm not sure do both doors have the hatch switch?
(my car isn't here yet... so I can't go and check)

I'll try to report back tomorrow with results.

So as you guys recommend it would be best if I installed the system inside the door driver or passenger?

Thanks again guys I really appreciate the help.

Bye

RickTheRuler727

Will the aftermarket keyless dissarm the factory security system, or does it have to be by-passed? I just bought a '95 with no fobs, and the cheapest one I found is $200 from ecklers...