Lucky Kid

Deal fell through and I ended up keeping it.

After a good 7-8 hours of working, buying tools, working, buying differnent tools, drinking, working, and working some more, the heads are off!

First off; Why do you guys put up with this car? I can't beleive how much CRAP there is on this thing, and its very difficult to work on. I used to have a ton of respect for the corvette and I thought it was the one American car that was well designed. I was very wrong. It just seems sloppy the way some of the components are placed and where bolts are located.

None the less, I am going to keep going and see if it can change my opinion when I drive it.


I will be sending pictures later tonight, it seems that all of the metal rings on the head gasket are blown. Some scraped the top of a piston. It also appears on cylinder was not firing, but I think I will get away with just a head re-fresh and maybe some injector cleaning.

Thanks,
Lucky Kid

dsandmire

Assume a head "re-fresh" will include valve guides and a valve job, in addition to checking for cracks and a remill. Opinions will vary but if yr engine was "cooked", there is better than average chance one or more rings broke and some cylinders are scored--if the pistons come out then the lower half of the engine is probably worth "re-freshing" too. Hope you name-sake is applicable.....

Signed: "Assessing my options on an 87 in Texas"

Lucky Kid

Here are the pics. It seemed that all the cylinders have a "blown" head gasket. Anyone know if this is enough to make it not run?


I am hoping that I'm not overlooking another issue.







This was unplugged under the intake manifold. Anyone knows what it is?


Thanks,
Lucky Kid

90C4sRule

If your talking about the wire connector, It looks like it plugs into the is the solenoid that controls the vacuum to the EGR valve. The heater hose connects to the throtle body. Talk to Jon at FIC (Search fuel injectors) and get a set of used Bosch injectors.

Lucky Kid

I was talking about the wire connector, A good number of connectors were brittle and broke. Anyone know a good source for replacements?

I think I will replace the injectors for grins. Anyone know how to test my injectors? It would be a good piece of mind to know if some were not working. One visibly looks burnt, and the exhaust port on one cylinder seems like it was not firing (rusted).

I am going to replace the water pump. How easy is it to swap the cam while I'm down there?

Can the auto trans handle 300HP at the crank?

I figure; Fresh head, Injectors, Cam, Rollers would but me at about 280-290, correct?

Thanks,
Lucky Kid

Lucky Kid

In reading some other threads it looks like roller rockers are out of the question because the heads are Iron and it would be a good deal of work. I figure its going to be A few hundred to get the heads freshened anyway, am I better off with some aftermarket aluminum heads like these?

http://www.jegs.com/p/Edelbrock/Edel...58343/10002/-1


Anyone have any recommendations?


Thank You,
Lucky Kid

Lemme

I am currently putting on some afr 195s on my 87 but they are more like $1300 once they are milled down to 60cc from 65cc. I believe your existing heads would be 58cc so some milling is required on the heads you are proposing too. Not sure whether the jegs ones are for the L98 corvette engine either.

Lucky Kid

Thanks for the response. I dropped my heads off at the shop today to see if they are ok. I should know tomorrow.

Honestly, I'm horribly confused as to what is standard and what is unique about the SBC 350, I thought the only difference would be the heads, but I assumed the intake and exhaust ports would all be the same.

I have another question. It appears that my valve guides which go into the block down by the cam are all different heights. Two of them seem to be sticking really far out. Is this normal? If not how do I correct it?


Also will I need new valve springs when they re-do the head?

Sorry for all the questions, but this is completely new to me.

Thanks,
Lucky Kid

Lemme

I am not an expert about exactly what is the same or different about a L98 vette head and a standard sbc head. I think the angle of the spark plug is a key issue though and the valve covers on aluminium heads are centre bolt rather than perimeter bolt.

If you are talking about the lifters being at different heights then this is normal as the cam will have some up and some down.

I had my 87 Al 128 heads serviced a year ago to stop the smoke coming out the back and I didn't have the springs changed. In retrospect I would now for the small extra cost.

Lucky Kid

The results are in from the head shop. It appears that the heads are warped. One side was 10 thousands and the other was 6 thousands. They said that is out of spec for repair but they might be able to do it. They said if they are warped that bad they must have gotten very hot and there might be something else wrong with them.

I am beginning to think new heads might be the way to go.

Does anyone know what the "warp" tolerance is that would put heads beyond repair?

Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks,
Lucky Kid

Aardwolf

I would not use them and if budget is tight pick up some low mile #113 heads and swap those on. Could be back running quickly with a little extra HP and low cost.

Lucky Kid

My buddy brought up a good point. If my heads are iron and warped. Wouldn't my block be warped as well...

Any thoughts on this?

What should I be looking to pay for a set of #113 heads? There are some on ebay but they look pretty gnarly.

This rabbit hole is getting scary!

Thanks,
Lucky Kid

F22

You might just start looking at a crate motor. Screw the warped heads and the extra cost in fixing them. Ditto the block and internals as well. By the time you're done, you could've had a fresh V8 in there. You haven't committed to fixing the heads yet and I say go with the fresh crate motor. Get a set of excellent used rebuilt injectors from FIC injectors while you're at it (search the forum here). Also replace the EGR and Fuel Pressure regulator while you're at it, because they sit under the intake plenum and you might as well do it now, than later!

From what I understand, this Ebay seller sells some great engines. $2,300 and change and just add gaskets, a new thermostat and you're good to go.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...Q5fAccessories

Lucky Kid

I got my heads milled, a valve job, and new springs and push rods. Everythings assembled except I was waiting for the Plenum gaskets. Tonight should be the night everything comes together.

The alignment pins in the block had issues lining up with the drivers side head. I actually tried both heads and they didn't want to go on. I eventually had to put a couple old head bolts in to get it started and force it down. It went down easily with the bolts. To me, I can only think that the block is warped, but my fingers are crossed that its a fluke.

I didn't mark the distributor when I took it out...I'm regretting that one. I also didn't mark any of the IAC and vaccume lines. Does anyone have a good pic?

I turned the motor over to TDC for #1 and confirmed the marking on the piston. Where should I rotate the distributor to, given the motors at TDC? Should I move the motor to 10 degrees before? What is the igition timing on this thing?

I also need to find the temp sensor connector on the drivers side. I bought a new sensor, but I can find the plug. Does anyone know where it originats from in the loom?

Thanks in advance! Wish me luck!

Lucky Kid

cumbercr

I'm sorry I didn't see this thread earlier. I have a set of almost new AFR heads from my 85. I could have given you a good deal. Good luck. Hope this works out for you.

Lucky Kid

ok, she's back together, but I ran out of time and light.

I found a ground strap that's connected to the block, but no where else. Anyone know where on the chassis this goes?

I am going to charge the battery and try to start it tomorrow after work...

Thanks,
Lucky Kid

AGENT 86

Can't see exactly, but it's mounted below brake booster. Too much stuff in the way to get a closer look.

Lucky Kid

I got my "digital FSM" today and found the location. It is supposed to be connected along with a cable to the battery ground. Perhaps that explains my starter "click" issues as well...

Thanks,
Lucky Kid...

Lucky Kid

Drove the Vette to work today! Looks like the trans works ok. It also stopped draining battery with the CABIN LIGHT fuse out.

The brakes take a good deal of force to stop, I think there is either a vaccum leak or a booster issue. Anyone know if its normal?

Repoman1

if the car sat for a while its probably froze calipers......