96 C4 Ignition Key Problem
#1
96 C4 Ignition Key Problem
Hi All. I have a 1996 C4 with an Autotrans and 92K on the odometer.
Recently my car has not been starting when I turn the ignition key. I get all the lights to come on the dash instrument panel and I can hear the fuel relay turn on, but when I turn the key all the way the engine will not crank. I first thought my starter sylinoid was going out, but I found that if I jiggle the key I can get the engine to turn over and the car starts right up. My question is, does the little anti-thieft button on the key ever wear out?
I only have one set of keys so I can't try another set.
I really appreciate everyone's help.
Robin F.
Recently my car has not been starting when I turn the ignition key. I get all the lights to come on the dash instrument panel and I can hear the fuel relay turn on, but when I turn the key all the way the engine will not crank. I first thought my starter sylinoid was going out, but I found that if I jiggle the key I can get the engine to turn over and the car starts right up. My question is, does the little anti-thieft button on the key ever wear out?
I only have one set of keys so I can't try another set.
I really appreciate everyone's help.
Robin F.
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Puyallup Washington
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The first thing anyone with one set of keys should do is go to a competant locksmith and have one or two more keys made. What you should do now, in my opinion, is use a pencil eraser to clean the pellet contacts on the key on both sides. Then try it. If it works, and even if it does not, get your car started and drive to the locksmith and get a new key made and try it. If you still need to wiggle the key to get your car to start then it is probably time for a new ignition switch.
#4
Racer
Member Since: Oct 2010
Location: Clarksville Tennessee
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Measure the resistance across the pellet...
then cross reference to the VATS codes. I have 2 HATA brand #2 blanks for sale in the for sale forum and the resistance chart is there. If your resistance is off by more than 5%, it very possibly could be the key, otherwise, I'd guess ignition switch or it's wiring.
#5
Racer
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Flint MI: Birthplace of the Corvette
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I would guess it's more likely bad contacts in the ignition cylinder than the resistor pellet on the key. The fix is either a new ignition cylinder which involves taking the steering column apart and an expensive part or you could bypass the system with a 20 cent resistor. Here's a link to the procedure. (I've done this on several vehicles. If you get the correct resistor value, it works great!)
http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
Definitely clean your key contacts before doing anything drastic. Just use some electrical contact cleaner (brake clean) sparingly on the key and insert it in the cylinder a couple of times. Don't squirt it in to the key switch! You could also add the resistor temporally and see if it fixes your problem.
Good Luck!
Dave T.
http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
Definitely clean your key contacts before doing anything drastic. Just use some electrical contact cleaner (brake clean) sparingly on the key and insert it in the cylinder a couple of times. Don't squirt it in to the key switch! You could also add the resistor temporally and see if it fixes your problem.
Good Luck!
Dave T.
#6
Le Mans Master
You can use a Q-tip (wood ones are best because they are thinner) soak it in alcohol, put it in the lock about 1/4 inch or so and clean the contacts. You can see the contacts with a good flashlight. Don't over clean it because you don’t want to leave the fibers in the lock. That may help out in addition to cleaning the key.
And having only one key is living dangerously. If you lose, break it or if the pellet goes bad it will cost you big bucks. A whole lot more than the price of 2 keys and a ton of lost time and effort.
And having only one key is living dangerously. If you lose, break it or if the pellet goes bad it will cost you big bucks. A whole lot more than the price of 2 keys and a ton of lost time and effort.
#7
Racer
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Flint MI: Birthplace of the Corvette
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You can use a Q-tip (wood ones are best because they are thinner) soak it in alcohol, put it in the lock about 1/4 inch or so and clean the contacts. You can see the contacts with a good flashlight. Don't over clean it because you don’t want to leave the fibers in the lock. That may help out in addition to cleaning the key.
And having only one key is living dangerously. If you lose, break it or if the pellet goes bad it will cost you big bucks. A whole lot more than the price of 2 keys and a ton of lost time and effort.
And having only one key is living dangerously. If you lose, break it or if the pellet goes bad it will cost you big bucks. A whole lot more than the price of 2 keys and a ton of lost time and effort.
#8
Also, if you check the resistance, you can easily go to fleabay and order a couple of new keys, usually about $12. Then take it to get it cut. My local chain hardware store cuts them for free if you have the blank. Pretty easy solution compared to the time and expense if you lose your one key. I only had one key when I bought my Vette so I made two replacements and put the original up in a safe place.
#9
earlier and some later oe keys are a bit shorter and wallow around in the ignition switch. with age you will lose contact and have to jiggle them to get them to complete the circut. Gm put out a tech. blerb bout this, when you get new keys, make sure they are longer than the oe ones. hope this helps.
#10
earlier and some later oe keys are a bit shorter and wallow around in the ignition switch. with age you will lose contact and have to jiggle them to get them to complete the circut. Gm put out a tech. blerb bout this, when you get new keys, make sure they are longer than the oe ones. hope this helps.
ACE hardware stores have key readers and the right blanks...
about $12