C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Video on Headlamp Motor Removal and Repair 88-96

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Old 01-25-2012, 07:54 PM
  #21  
0Willcox Corvette
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:56 PM
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:00 AM
  #23  
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OK, I followed the video from start to finish to replace the bushings (pellets) in my 1991 corvette headlight. Everything was fine until I tried to remove the gear. It would not budge. Plus there was no opening in the back of the case (like in the video) to push out the gear. I followed steps 12, 13 and 14 in Corvettemagazine.com's article on replacing the bushings and the gear came out. Here is the jump to the article:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/body...1988-1996.html
I did the repair on my work bench. As it is so easy to pull the whole assembly, I can't imagine doing it on the car. You will want to take the headlight covers off to do the work. Suggest that you somehow mark how it was bolted up or you will have fun checking the alignment of the cover when you put everything back together. Alternatively, you could cover all the painted surfaces with blue tape before you start and then just leave the covers on. Also, the factory must use 80 pounds of torque on the torx screws. They are really a bear to break free. Our last thing. Be careful with the headlight bracket (the "horseshoe") if you remove the headlight assembly for the repair. It is aluminum and has several weak spots that will break easily.

Last edited by summerst; 04-08-2012 at 07:42 PM.
Old 04-07-2012, 10:38 PM
  #24  
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On motors where there is no back, you just have to work the gear out... They can be bound up from all the pellet debris but they will come out...

Willcox
Old 04-08-2012, 12:42 PM
  #25  
Deepa
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Same on my 91, the passenger side gear was a bitch to get out...

I took a 8 foot long piece of coated electrical wire, like 10-12 guage which fit into the hole on the gear shaft which the roll pin fits in...that gave me leverage to pull the gear out and not scratch shaft or anything else up. It took me a while because I wasnt pulling hard enough on it.

Hope this helps,

Mike
Old 04-08-2012, 05:06 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
On motors where there is no back, you just have to work the gear out... They can be bound up from all the pellet debris but they will come out...

Willcox
Yeah. Now you tell me. Maybe you should add a post script to your video. I would have loved to watch it with your guy taking apart my headlight assembly. It probably would go viral on the internet! Seriously, I appreciate your efforts to make the video. I am just trying to help the next guy out as there is no reason to get frustrated on this job when you are that far enough along in tearing the thing apart.

My 1990 has a back that you can push on while the motor in the 1991 does not. The wiring harness is different as well. Both cars have the original headlight motors so I would assume that pre-91 cars have the open back motors and the 1991 through 1996 have the closed back motors.

Last edited by summerst; 04-10-2012 at 04:51 PM.
Old 04-30-2012, 07:43 AM
  #27  
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I just replaced the bushings (pellets) in the driver's side on my 1991. Its odd that the driver's side case has an opening on the back to push the gear out while the passenger side does not at least on my car. I have had my 1991 since 2000 so I don't believe that the headlight motor was ever replaced. Apparently, the headlight motors are mirror images with this important exception (at least when it comes to the Willcox video). Bottom line is that the driver's side was much easier to repair that the passenger side. Also, I found that if you slip a nail punch into the slot where the motor passes through the gears when removing the motor, the job goes much faster in reassembly and there is zero chance of error getting the thing back together properly.
Now that I'm all done, I have an extra working passenger side headlight assembly for a 1991 to 1996 Vette that is available for $150 plus $10 shipping in U.S. I will post it later in the parts for sale section with a picture, but early birds reading this get first shot at it. I found that its nice to have a working one handy when attempting to replace the pellets the first time as it provides an easy reference and offers a backup if you screw up replacing the pellets the first time and your car is a daily driver like my 1991. Plus the extra assembly (whether its your repaired old one or the one I am selling) will always have the same value so basically all you end up paying is the shipping.

Last edited by summerst; 04-30-2012 at 04:28 PM.
Old 11-12-2012, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
ttt
Excellant vidieo. I've had several Firebirds and 'Vettes. I've always replaced the plastic gear with a brass one. I've always found that part of the "dust" or "crumbs" was from the gear. On two occations I found teeth missing. Just curious why you used plastic and not brass?

Thanks, Dave
Old 12-01-2012, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by DAVECAD2.0
Excellant vidieo. I've had several Firebirds and 'Vettes. I've always replaced the plastic gear with a brass one. I've always found that part of the "dust" or "crumbs" was from the gear. On two occations I found teeth missing. Just curious why you used plastic and not brass?

Thanks, Dave
The gears were designed to fail.

When plastic wears out or breaks the motor is serviceable. When brass wears out it takes out the motor.

I've always felt that buying pellets maybe twice in the life of the motor is cheaper and keeps in touch with how the motor was designed thus avoiding other issues a locked up motor could cause.

IMHO,

Willcox
Old 12-06-2012, 09:23 PM
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:35 PM
  #31  
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Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 12-07-2012 at 09:37 PM.
Old 12-07-2012, 01:24 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
Dogfish.. Please start your own video thread.

You made a great effort in bring this to the forum and I know exactly how much work goes into making these. For that I tip my hat to you!

But.. I'm sorry, some of the techniques used in your video I do not agree with and this is why it keeps getting pulled. With a few revisions I'm sure it would make an excellent help video.
Which techniques do you not agree with so that I can make a better video? Thanks
Old 12-07-2012, 04:47 PM
  #33  
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If you don't mind, email me direct at Support@Willcoxcorvette.com and we will discuss this a bit. <-- You never messaged me....

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 01-19-2013 at 09:39 PM.
Old 01-19-2013, 09:38 PM
  #34  
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Bump... got a customer looking for this..
Old 02-11-2013, 02:36 PM
  #35  
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Just got the parts in from you guys and getting ready to do this, thanks.
Old 02-16-2013, 05:30 PM
  #36  
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Good deal.. let me know if you have any problems...
Old 02-17-2013, 01:49 AM
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This is fantastic, and timely! Thanks.

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Old 03-04-2013, 09:59 AM
  #38  
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great info. good video.
Old 05-06-2014, 12:43 AM
  #39  
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bump... Someone is looking for this..
Old 05-06-2014, 05:21 AM
  #40  
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...thus avoiding other issues a locked up motor could cause.
This is the current situation with my RH motor; the manual know will not turn to close the headlight...

I'll be back to view this vid soon as this job comes up in the quque...


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