Difficulty Pushing In Auto Gearshift Selector Button
#21
Melting Slicks
Just be sure the linkage to the lock plate that the soleniod pulls is lubed and real free. As you can see it does not take much to bind these things up a little. coke, beer, cleaners ect, get down there thru the years and everything get gummy and sticky.
#22
Holy Smokes! I've been fighting this problem for 5 years! Took it in to a local Vette shop for service and they wanted to replace the entire shifter. I figured I would just keep it neutral when storing it in the garage. Like previously mentioned, it only occurs when the car is cold.
#23
This is an old thread, but I just removed the btsi solenoid from my 96 today. I had an observation I haven't seen posted, thought I would add it. I didn't remove the shifter or pull the console off. Just remove the 4 screws holding the glove box cover and lay it on the carpet behind the seat, right side up so the light goes out. Then, pull the front of the glove box rug back to expose two more screws, and remove them. Remove one more screw under the ash tray. All 7 screws are 7 mm hex, same size. Then carefully lift the console cover about 45 degrees. I could hold the flashlight in my mouth and see well enough to fish a screwdriver in, pop off the two ends of the solenoid, pull it up and disconnect the connector. Wind up the connector wire and stash it in the back of the compartment so it won't get tangled in the shifter. When putting the console cover back down, check the tang for the gear indicater is on the little spindle so it shows the right gear. Done. *** Somebody suggested it's an antitheft device, but I would think thieves know to press the brake. I've also heard it's a safety control to make sure you're actually paying attention before putting it in gear. I can handle that. Works fine for me. *** One more thing, my solenoid was stuck closed. When I pulled hard it opened and then slid easily. Apparently the failure is the gasket or something has deteriorated with age and sticks to the mechanism so the coil can't move it. I didn't do an autopsy.
Last edited by davewatson; 10-23-2012 at 07:50 PM.
#24
Holy Smokes! I've been fighting this problem for 5 years! Took it in to a local Vette shop for service and they wanted to replace the entire shifter. I figured I would just keep it neutral when storing it in the garage. Like previously mentioned, it only occurs when the car is cold.
#25
Instructor
Thread dust off x4. Well this happened to my 95 Pace Car today and thanks to the forum I was able to head out with my 7mm socket and remove the 7 screws and gain access to the interlock. I wanted to update with two additional tidbits.
1. the interlock is not a solenoid as described elsewhere it is actually a magnetic lock. When the brake is applied it releases the shaft that allows the button to be depressed.
2. With that in mind it is much easier to "repair" the interlock then a solenoid say for the rear hatch. What I did was first remove the intelock using the aforementioned procedure. I then sprayed the extended shaft with CRC Lectra-Motive cleaner, I then actuated the shaft with my foot on the brake and the key in the run position. This frees up the stickiness on the end. I then sprayed CRC 2-26 on the shaft and repeated the actuation.
I tested the release and it appeared to function properly. I reversed the teardown procedures using needle nose pliers to reattach the white pivots and presto my Pacer shifts in and out of park flawlessly
All told it took about 30 minutes to do. Be very carefull to keep the console from scratching the radio bezel when attempting this . THe old ruberized plastic tends to scratch easily. I removed the cigarette lighter socket and covered the front edge of the shift console with a microfiber.
I now hand the thread to someone in the distant future.
Eric
1. the interlock is not a solenoid as described elsewhere it is actually a magnetic lock. When the brake is applied it releases the shaft that allows the button to be depressed.
2. With that in mind it is much easier to "repair" the interlock then a solenoid say for the rear hatch. What I did was first remove the intelock using the aforementioned procedure. I then sprayed the extended shaft with CRC Lectra-Motive cleaner, I then actuated the shaft with my foot on the brake and the key in the run position. This frees up the stickiness on the end. I then sprayed CRC 2-26 on the shaft and repeated the actuation.
I tested the release and it appeared to function properly. I reversed the teardown procedures using needle nose pliers to reattach the white pivots and presto my Pacer shifts in and out of park flawlessly
All told it took about 30 minutes to do. Be very carefull to keep the console from scratching the radio bezel when attempting this . THe old ruberized plastic tends to scratch easily. I removed the cigarette lighter socket and covered the front edge of the shift console with a microfiber.
I now hand the thread to someone in the distant future.
Eric
Last edited by ewjxn; 03-13-2014 at 07:11 PM. Reason: Damn typos!
#26
Heel & Toe
Great thread after all these years!
Thread dust off x4. Well this happened to my 95 Pace Car today and thanks to the forum I was able to head out with my 7mm socket and remove the 7 screws and gain access to the interlock. I wanted to update with two additional tidbits.
1. the interlock is not a solenoid as described elsewhere it is actually a magnetic lock. When the brake is applied it releases the shaft that allows the button to be depressed.
2. With that in mind it is much easier to "repair" the interlock then a solenoid say for the rear hatch. What I did was first remove the intelock using the aforementioned procedure. I then sprayed the extended shaft with CRC Lectra-Motive cleaner, I then actuated the shaft with my foot on the brake and the key in the run position. This frees up the stickiness on the end. I then sprayed CRC 2-26 on the shaft and repeated the actuation.
I tested the release and it appeared to function properly. I reversed the teardown procedures using needle nose pliers to reattach the white pivots and presto my Pacer shifts in and out of park flawlessly
All told it took about 30 minutes to do. Be very carefull to keep the console from scratching the radio bezel when attempting this . THe old ruberized plastic tends to scratch easily. I removed the cigarette lighter socket and covered the front edge of the shift console with a microfiber.
I now hand the thread to someone in the distant future.
Eric
1. the interlock is not a solenoid as described elsewhere it is actually a magnetic lock. When the brake is applied it releases the shaft that allows the button to be depressed.
2. With that in mind it is much easier to "repair" the interlock then a solenoid say for the rear hatch. What I did was first remove the intelock using the aforementioned procedure. I then sprayed the extended shaft with CRC Lectra-Motive cleaner, I then actuated the shaft with my foot on the brake and the key in the run position. This frees up the stickiness on the end. I then sprayed CRC 2-26 on the shaft and repeated the actuation.
I tested the release and it appeared to function properly. I reversed the teardown procedures using needle nose pliers to reattach the white pivots and presto my Pacer shifts in and out of park flawlessly
All told it took about 30 minutes to do. Be very carefull to keep the console from scratching the radio bezel when attempting this . THe old ruberized plastic tends to scratch easily. I removed the cigarette lighter socket and covered the front edge of the shift console with a microfiber.
I now hand the thread to someone in the distant future.
Eric
Appreciate these posts after all these years!
That’s one value of the Corvette Forum!