Intermittent starting
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Intermittent starting
I'm having that problem where my '88 coupe decides to not let me leave where I currently am. It'll crank, but it will not turn over. The car is cold, so it's not a heat soak issue, and if I wait x amount of time, it'll start and act normal. Where should I go from here?
My key is old, so I probably need a new one. How much would that be?
Should I just test the key and find out which key it is and get a bypass kit for the VATS?
My key is old, so I probably need a new one. How much would that be?
Should I just test the key and find out which key it is and get a bypass kit for the VATS?
#4
Le Mans Master
I'm having that problem where my '88 coupe decides to not let me leave where I currently am. It'll crank, but it will not turn over. The car is cold, so it's not a heat soak issue, and if I wait x amount of time, it'll start and act normal. Where should I go from here?
My key is old, so I probably need a new one. How much would that be?
Should I just test the key and find out which key it is and get a bypass kit for the VATS?
My key is old, so I probably need a new one. How much would that be?
Should I just test the key and find out which key it is and get a bypass kit for the VATS?
If the engine will crank/turn over, it's not VATS.
Jake
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
That's contradictory statement (highlighted). Crank(ing) and "turn over" mean the same thing. What you're saying by writing that statement is 'it'll crank but it won't crank' or 'it'll turn over but it won't turn over'.
If the engine will crank/turn over, it's not VATS.
Jake
If the engine will crank/turn over, it's not VATS.
Jake
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Cincinnati, Oh USA
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It isn't the key either. Engines need spark, spark at the right time, fuel and air and in the correct ratio, and cylinder compression in order to start and continue to run. When it won't start, THAT is the time to do some diagnostics and find out what is missing. Use a timing light to see if you have spark during cranking. Use a fuel pressure gauge to see if you have 35 to 42 psi and if it holds up with the ign off. Use a noid light plugged into an injector on each cylinder bank during cranking to see if it pulses. You can make your own noid light with an LED (light emitting diode) in series with a 680 ohm resistor. The homemade noid light must be connected with the correct polarity, you can try it both ways.
The starter motor, "turns over" the engine in order for it to start and run.
The starter motor, "turns over" the engine in order for it to start and run.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
But it only doesn't start at random intervals, like this morning. After work, when I got home, it started right up no problem. Logically, I don't see how something can fail, but then not fail. I've replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor cap, the air filter is properly placed. I don't exactly have a Fuel pressure gauge or the money to get one, but I pressed on that thing on the passenger side and it spews gas pretty religiously with the key on.
#9
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: Blue Ridge GA
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Try replacing the Ignition Module. They can be intermittent when going bad. They aren't expensive, either. But get a good one. Make sure that the screws holding down the coil are tight because I found out a loose ground can kill your IM.
#10
Slingshot
Could be a failing fuel pump or fuel pump relay. If your Corvette is 20+ years old and on the original fuel pump, you are on borrowed time. You need to check the fuel pressure when it is cranking but not starting. Also, a fuel pressure gage is about $35 - $50; get one, you will need it if you are goig to maintain your C4 yourself.