C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old 08-31-2010, 12:29 AM
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sharp90
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Default Brake Booster

What is the difficaulty level in replacing the power brake booster?
Old 08-31-2010, 11:12 AM
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0Paul Ruggeri
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Its a pretty easy job. Should take you about an hour or 2 depending on you level of experience.
Old 08-31-2010, 01:11 PM
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Took me...a lot longer..have to remove the driver seast to get to the 2 nuts holdng it on...getting the damn thing out was pretty rough as well...this is on a 92....
Old 08-31-2010, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mfi
Took me...a lot longer..have to remove the driver seast to get to the 2 nuts holdng it on...getting the damn thing out was pretty rough as well...this is on a 92....
Same here. Technically it is VERY easy. But getting the two bolts off, which is above the steering column on the inside of the car is a pain. Take the seat out which is easy and have patience. It goes on a lot fast than it came off. I think it took me 3 hours with 2 hours of it on those 2 bolts, but you might have better luck and be done in 45 minutes...
Old 08-31-2010, 02:23 PM
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Black89Z51
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I did the same on my 89. Had to remove the drivers seat and lay on the floorboard to get those 2 nuts off and back on. Be warned though, some aftermarket replacement brake boosters are unpainted metal and will rust very fast. I cleaned the new one I picked up and painted it black (body color). I noticed that there was something in the metal that repelled the paint, so I just kept cleaning. It's not perfect, but it's not rusty.
Old 09-01-2010, 12:02 PM
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ejscarfo
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Originally Posted by Black89Z51
I did the same on my 89. Had to remove the drivers seat and lay on the floorboard to get those 2 nuts off and back on. Be warned though, some aftermarket replacement brake boosters are unpainted metal and will rust very fast. I cleaned the new one I picked up and painted it black (body color). I noticed that there was something in the metal that repelled the paint, so I just kept cleaning. It's not perfect, but it's not rusty.
Usually those parts are coated with an oily substance so they don't rust on the store shelf. Generally I use brake parts cleaner to clean that stuff off. Usually takes a couple of apps. Then I prime it and see what happens. If the primer bubbles, etc. then I tear it down and start again. If not, I paint away.

I will be doing the brake booster job soon, as soon as the weather cools down that is.
Old 09-01-2010, 03:48 PM
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aj1988
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Quick suggestion, when I did mine the biggest problem was dropping the nuts when I was trying to put it back together. Put a little dab of grease in the socket you are using and it will hold the nut in while you get it started.
Old 09-01-2010, 07:09 PM
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samsonb
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Originally Posted by aj1988
Quick suggestion, when I did mine the biggest problem was dropping the nuts when I was trying to put it back together. Put a little dab of grease in the socket you are using and it will hold the nut in while you get it started.
I found it easier to hold the nut with a long extension magnet. Then turn the nut by finger to get it started.
Old 09-01-2010, 08:36 PM
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I taped the damn nut on the socket...worked pretty well..biggest prob was wrestling the damn booster out of the car....several beers later and it was done..and so was I.......
Old 09-01-2010, 08:50 PM
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One problem I had was adjusting the screw on the pushrod. I wasn't able to get anything to hold the pushrod still while still having room to put a socket on the screw to back it out some. Right now, the screw on the pushrod is adjusted to short.
Old 09-01-2010, 10:52 PM
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aj1988
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If you are talking about the pushrod that goes into the master cyl I had that same problem till I put some vice grips on it and pulled it to the front of the car. Put another set of vice grips on the rod and then adjusted the screw out (it was all the way in when I got the booster). Hope that helps.
Old 09-01-2010, 11:20 PM
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samsonb
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Originally Posted by aj1988
If you are talking about the pushrod that goes into the master cyl I had that same problem till I put some vice grips on it and pulled it to the front of the car. Put another set of vice grips on the rod and then adjusted the screw out (it was all the way in when I got the booster). Hope that helps.
You put vice grips on the rod and pulled it out towards you so you could get access to the nut? Wouldn't that damage something?
Old 09-02-2010, 12:01 AM
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aj1988
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I didn't put that much pressure on the vice grips. And what I grabbed onto was the nut. Just pulled stright out. Since I am rather short I haven't tried pushing on the break pedal and seeing if that will push the rod out, but if you have someone that can help you that might be an alternative way of getting the rod out. And when I did this I was alone and really didn't think of using the break till later.

It took a couple of trys to get it right. If you adjust it too far out then you have break drag all the time.
Old 09-02-2010, 12:15 AM
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aj1988
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This is what you are talking about, right?
Old 09-02-2010, 12:34 AM
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samsonb
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Originally Posted by aj1988


This is what you are talking about, right?
Yes, that is what I'm talking about. You have the pushrod, and a screw at the end. Though the pushrod in your pic sticks out alot further than on mine. That is a good idea to try with the car running to press the brake pedal and put something like a brick to keep the brake pedal pushed. Shut car off then pull the master and see what that did.

I had read of putting a blob of something like white lithium grease on the screw. Then tighten and remove the master to see how close the screw is to the master.

Old 09-02-2010, 12:44 AM
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I'm not sure the car has to be running. If you just push on the pedal when it is off the brakes will engage. When I finally figured out that pushing on the pedal was the way to go I just got a broom and pushed and then wedged it in using the window to hold it in place.
Old 09-02-2010, 01:09 AM
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When I adjusted mine, I put the left front on a jackstand so I could spin the wheel and see if there was any drag. It took a couple of tries to get it right. I did finally beak down and get some help with the pedal.

Good luck.

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Old 09-02-2010, 01:15 AM
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samsonb
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Originally Posted by aj1988
When I adjusted mine, I put the left front on a jackstand so I could spin the wheel and see if there was any drag. It took a couple of tries to get it right. I did finally beak down and get some help with the pedal.

Good luck.
Thanks. I remember last time I was doing some checks. The front wheels turned easier with the engine running for some reason.
Old 09-02-2010, 07:44 AM
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The front wheels turned easier with the engine running for some reason.

That's because the running engine powers the PS pump.
Old 09-02-2010, 04:05 PM
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samsonb
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Originally Posted by onedef92
The front wheels turned easier with the engine running for some reason.

That's because the running engine powers the PS pump.
I mean the wheels spin easier with the engine running. I had the front jacked a while back and was checking some things and noticed the wheels didn't spin too freely. Later I had the car running and noticed the wheels would spin freely.


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