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Old 07-24-2010, 04:33 PM   #1
IU-Z07
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Default Door Ajar Switch

Whenever it gets hot out, the LH door ajar switch stops working properly. I have to wiggle it around to get the radio to turn off. How can I clean it or otherwise make it function properly?
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:15 PM   #2
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These door ajar switches are a poor design.I replaced both of mine & they still work poorly or occasionallyWhen they don't work my pass-key/alarm does not work & does not lock my doors
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:20 PM   #3
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I bought one from the dealer 30 bucks and it stuck,took it back and used a hacksaw on mine on both sides ,split it apart and cleaned it with brake cleaner than JB welded it back together.this was about 10 months ago and still working good.I only did this because i need one and didn't want to wait.
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Old 07-26-2010, 01:14 PM   #4
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Click the image to open in full size.

Typically, the nipple/plunger device on the end of the switch is what goes bad. I replaced mine with a new switch from the dealer and it cured my problem. The switch on the passenger side was faulty, causing my alarm to go off after the ignition was off and the car was parked.
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:33 PM   #5
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Sprayed my '85's with WD40 and seems to have relieved the stickiness (for now).

Use the spray "snorkel tube", let soak for several minutes, then work the switch in and out several times by hand.

-CKB
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:58 PM   #6
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I was planning to try either WD40 or electrical connection cleaner. I didn't know if they would be damaging or helpful.
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:59 PM   #7
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Replaced mine with these a couple of years back & they have worked fine ever since.

http://www.ecklers.com/corvette-door...1985-1987.html
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onedef92 View Post
Click the image to open in full size.

Typically, the nipple/plunger device on the end of the switch is what goes bad. I replaced mine with a new switch from the dealer and it cured my problem. The switch on the passenger side was faulty, causing my alarm to go off after the ignition was off and the car was parked.
I bought a pair that look like that, but the ones on my '95 are flush at the end. Those tips don't seem to have any adjustment, and I believe that when the door is shut those little tips will be completely gone.

Anyone else run into this?

Steven
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:02 AM   #9
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My driver's side started to go. I spray some silicon lubricant in there and whack it in and out a few times- sorts it out. If it gets worse I will swap it with the passenger side one as obviously it gets much less use
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Old 07-28-2010, 02:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCorvetteFan View Post
I bought a pair that look like that, but the ones on my '95 are flush at the end. Those tips don't seem to have any adjustment, and I believe that when the door is shut those little tips will be completely gone.

Anyone else run into this?

Steven
Look real close to the tip, you should be able to get in a small putty knife (back side) or the smallest screwdriver you can find and pry the tip out.
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Old 07-28-2010, 06:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vette079 View Post
Look real close to the tip, you should be able to get in a small putty knife (back side) or the smallest screwdriver you can find and pry the tip out.
I didn't even think about that! Thanks!

Steven
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IU-Z07 View Post
Whenever it gets hot out, the LH door ajar switch stops working properly. I have to wiggle it around to get the radio to turn off. How can I clean it or otherwise make it function properly?
You can try with WD40, but it probably is a temporary fix.
Better of buying a new one or try to pry out the tip as mentioned in the prev. reply to "oldcorvettefan".
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:54 AM   #13
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What exactly is my goal when I am "prying out the tip?"
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Old 07-28-2010, 02:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
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What exactly is my goal when I am "prying out the tip?"
If the internals of the switch are still OK.

Pry/pull out the tip for lets say 4 mm or 1/6th of an inch, and spray just a little WD 40 on the larger "****" where the pin sits in, because that is the actual switch.

Itīs plastic in plastic and wears over time and will not slide in and out that easy.

Now you have pre/adjusted the switch, when you close the door now, the small pin is the first thing that hits the door post, thereby pushing in the switch enough so the electronic circuit in the switch closes.

When you open the door again, you will notice that the pin is pushed in in the larger **** again.

Now it is adjusted as it should be, the reason for this is that weatherstrips wear out and get thinner over time.

If you had a solid switch with no "adjustable" pin, you will end up with a switch that doesnīt close after a while.

In short you could call this small pin an adjuster pin.

If you did this and the radio still doesnīt switch off after you release the ignition key followed by opening the door, then the switchīs internals are most likely shot, wich isnīt repairable.

Only thing to do is to buy a new one, they arenīt that expensive and are not that hard to replace either.

Last edited by vette079; 07-28-2010 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vette079 View Post
If the internals of the switch are still OK.

Pry/pull out the tip for lets say 4 mm or 1/6th of an inch, and spray just a little WD 40 on the larger "****" where the pin sits in, because that is the actual switch.

Itīs plastic in plastic and wears over time and will not slide in and out that easy.

Now you have pre/adjusted the switch, when you close the door now, the small pin is the first thing that hits the door post, thereby pushing in the switch enough so the electronic circuit in the switch closes.

When you open the door again, you will notice that the pin is pushed in in the larger **** again.

Now it is adjusted as it should be, the reason for this is that weatherstrips wear out and get thinner over time.

If you had a solid switch with no "adjustable" pin, you will end up with a switch that doesnīt close after a while.

In short you could call this small pin an adjuster pin.

If you did this and the radio still doesnīt switch off after you release the ignition key followed by opening the door, then the switchīs internals are most likely shot, wich isnīt repairable.

Only thing to do is to buy a new one, they arenīt that expensive and are not that hard to replace either.
So, if I'm reading this correctly, I install the new switch with the little pin completely extended - just as the picture above shows. When the door is closed, that head and pin assembly will be pushed into the body of the switch, thereby causing the switch to automatically and properly adjust itself.

I just kept looking at the new part, the old part, and visualizing my new part breaking the first time I closed the door.

Thanks!

Steven
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:41 AM   #16
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Pretty much, yes.
Before you close the door with the new part, be sure the wider **** moves freely in the switch, and see to it that the small pin only sticks out about 4 millimeters or so.

Be sure you have one for a 1994 model, the one back in post 4 (onedef92).

How are your weatherstrips?

Did you replace them recently?

In that case the plunger/small pin doesnīt push in that far compared to old strips, because they (new strips) are a little thicker.
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Old 07-30-2010, 07:47 PM   #17
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Thanks for the great instructions. The jury is still out on how well it worked.

What is the procedure for replacing the switch? Do I need to remove the door cover?
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IU-Z07 View Post
Thanks for the great instructions. The jury is still out on how well it worked.

What is the procedure for replacing the switch? Do I need to remove the door cover?
Yes...at least you do on an '85...in order to re-position the metal plate behind the fiberglass that the visible screws go into as well as undo the single pair wire connector.
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Old 07-31-2010, 03:19 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Yes...at least you do on an '85...in order to re-position the metal plate behind the fiberglass that the visible screws go into as well as undo the single pair wire connector.
Itīs just that the OP has a 90-96 model, so with a little luck he doesnīt have to do that.

There is a retainer on the inside of the door, that one you donīt want to loose track of, this is from the FSM:

Remove or disconnect,

1. Negative batt. cable
2. Lower screw. Replace with longer screw (Gm p/n 11503397 or equivalent started into retainer.
3. Upper screw.
4. Pull switch outward and rotate switch to expose upper screw hole.
5. Reinstall upper screw to hold retainer.
6. Remove lower screw.
7. Pull switch outward and depress harness lock tab to allow passage of switch and harness through opening.
8. Switch from harness.

Install or Connect,

1. Switch to harness.
2. Switch and harness into door.
3. Long screw through switch and lower door screw hole into retainer.
4. Remove upper screw.
5. Rotate switch and install upper screw through switch into retainer.
6. Remove longer screw.
7. Install original lower screw.

Done.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:53 PM   #20
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Seems to be working! Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:53 PM
 
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