My solution for mounting support brackets with headers
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
My solution for mounting support brackets with headers
I used 3/8" x 1" aluminum stock to make this mounting bracket:
It's got 2 countersunk 5/16" holes and uses the 1/4" spark plug harness mounting points.
I threaded a center hole for a 3/8" x 16 pitch attachment. It's attached with tapered allen head stainless screws.
Finally, I've decided to use a stud (vs using a bolt). It will be permanently installed using JBWeld. It's also stainless.
I finished the plate by polishing it.
Note: You can see the spark plug harness mounting holes for the rear two cylinders in the pic.
It's got 2 countersunk 5/16" holes and uses the 1/4" spark plug harness mounting points.
I threaded a center hole for a 3/8" x 16 pitch attachment. It's attached with tapered allen head stainless screws.
Finally, I've decided to use a stud (vs using a bolt). It will be permanently installed using JBWeld. It's also stainless.
I finished the plate by polishing it.
Note: You can see the spark plug harness mounting holes for the rear two cylinders in the pic.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; 05-26-2010 at 10:49 PM.
#2
Race Director
Thread Starter
Oh yeah....
Total cost was less than $10 for two brackets (mounting points). Custom length support braces will still need to be made. (Alternator and A/C support braces btw).
Total cost was less than $10 for two brackets (mounting points). Custom length support braces will still need to be made. (Alternator and A/C support braces btw).
Last edited by GREGGPENN; 05-26-2010 at 10:50 PM.
#3
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
Looks slick
#5
Race Director
Looks great! My only question is, if you JB weld the thing, it might get in the way of the machinists jig if you ever get the heads milled or ported.
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
(Probably will use silicone to help them stay in the head.)
Note: I also considered punching the stud on the backside so it can't come out -- of the bar I drilled. (I considered a center punch or a stotted punch to deform it. Then, I just decided to bond the stud in.)
Last edited by GREGGPENN; 05-27-2010 at 01:05 AM.
#7
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I'm only planning on permanently bonding the stud -- to the bracket I made. The allen screws attaching it to the head will remain removable!
(Probably will use silicone to help them stay in the head.)
Note: I also considered punching the stud on the backside so it can't come out -- of the bar I drilled. (I considered a center punch or a stotted punch to deform it. Then, I just decided to bond the stud in.)
(Probably will use silicone to help them stay in the head.)
Note: I also considered punching the stud on the backside so it can't come out -- of the bar I drilled. (I considered a center punch or a stotted punch to deform it. Then, I just decided to bond the stud in.)
#9
Le Mans Master
Bonding the stud in will work just fine.
Years ago someone gave me a tip for keeping non critical hardware (bracket to head mounting bolt(s) from vibrating loose / backing out: On the threads of the bolt(s) use a wrap or two of plumber's teflon tape....never had another issue with loosing or loosening hardware after that.
Get that car put back together.
#11
Race Director
Well done!
#12
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St. Jude Donor '05
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
A 3/8" taper allen has SO much depth that the head would require a countersink as thick as the aluminum bar. There wouldn't be enough threads left! (to keep it from spinning).
#16
Race Director
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