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Engine has been sitting 14 months. Has not turned over... Pre-Oil Question?
March 2009 -Take the car for a 200 mile trip. Discovered the rear hubs were shot. Bought parts and equipment to do R&R of rear suspension. The project grew to include drive train. Replacing universal joints, poly-bushings, clutch slave cylinder, hydraulics, beam plates and possibly a new flywheel. BTW, this is all Black Harley Man's fault! Working with limited time and limited budget. The car is still on the Race Ramps/Jack(Front) and Jack stands (Rear). Yes, I do miss driving the car!
May 2010 - The good news is I am back and focused on completing the jobs at hand. Dana 44 is back in the car with new bushings. Universal joints/half shafts, rear knuckles, and hubs are done. Brakes put on the car yesterday! I also installed the proper pilot bearing to be used with the MN6. (Note, that the rental tool from Advanced Autoparts worked like a charm. I had previously tried the packed grease method and that was a complete failure and only created a mess to clean up.)
As I get closer to getting this car back on the road after 14 months I am pondering the start up of the car. I am assuming that every drop of oil has had time to find its way back into the engine oil pan.
Q. Should I place a small amount of oil into each cylinders through the spark plug holes before restarting a engine?
Q. If so, how should I go about it?
Q. How much oil should be placed in each cylinder?
Q. Best Method for getting it into the cylinder etc?
Yikes! Fourteen months is a long time to allow an engine to sit, but I think that you're on the right track. First start with fresh, clean oil and filter change. Then remove all the spark plugs, squirt some oil into each combustion chamber, and turn the engine over by hand using the dampener bolt at least two complete revolutions to make sure that the rings were free in all eight cylinders.
Next I would align #1 cylinder at TDC, remove the distributor and use a pre-oiling device attached to a power tool to spin the oil pump to pre-lube the system. Keep spinning the oil pump until you see coming out of the rockers on each bank. Re-install the distributor.
Use some starting fluid on the air intake housing and start up the engine. Check your oil pressure, water temperature, and RPM. Keep the engine running until it reaches operating temperature. You should be good to go then after re-setting/checking the initial advance. Good luck!
My experience. I tore off the rear suspension on April of 2006. It has been sitting on jack stands for the last four years with no money or time to get her fixed. I started working on her a few weeks ago. I charged the battery checked oil and fluids. I then turned the key and she fired right up. Not bad for a 19 year old car.
My experience. I tore off the rear suspension on April of 2006. It has been sitting on jack stands for the last four years with no money or time to get her fixed. I started working on her a few weeks ago. I charged the battery checked oil and fluids. I then turned the key and she fired right up. Not bad for a 19 year old car.
Very surprised. Last december the snowblower gas was about 2 yrs old and didn't even smell like gas anymore.
It's an LT1 so your oiling method won't work. Starting fluid is entirely unecessary.
Just start it!
Eddie
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.beachcomber
Next I would align #1 cylinder at TDC, remove the distributor and use a pre-oiling device attached to a power tool to spin the oil pump to pre-lube the system. Keep spinning the oil pump until you see coming out of the rockers on each bank. Re-install the distributor.
Use some starting fluid on the air intake housing and start up the engine. Check your oil pressure, water temperature, and RPM. Keep the engine running until it reaches operating temperature. You should be good to go then after re-setting/checking the initial advance. Good luck!
Yikes! Fourteen months is a long time to allow an engine to sit, but I think that you're on the right track. First start with fresh, clean oil and filter change. Then remove all the spark plugs, squirt some oil into each combustion chamber, and turn the engine over by hand using the dampener bolt at least two complete revolutions to make sure that the rings were free in all eight cylinders.
Next I would align #1 cylinder at TDC, remove the distributor and use a pre-oiling device attached to a power tool to spin the oil pump to pre-lube the system. Keep spinning the oil pump until you see coming out of the rockers on each bank. Re-install the distributor.
Use some starting fluid on the air intake housing and start up the engine. Check your oil pressure, water temperature, and RPM. Keep the engine running until it reaches operating temperature. You should be good to go then after re-setting/checking the initial advance. Good luck!
it would take another month for me to do all that.
Probably for the most part all unnecessary.
The second it fires up it will get more oil quicker than preoiling. Ive started cars up that sat for yrs with no problems. THere is still oil on the parts in your engine but its up to you.
That is just what I would do. Fire it up and run until warm, then change oil.
I have let cars sit for years and started with a fresh battery. Also I have never had a problem with gas sitting in a closed tank for several years either.
Im from the just start it camp.. but as to the fuel.. If you have trouble starting it or running poorly, its the gas. I dont know what they have changed in fuel formulations but it goes bad quickly.
Also I have never had a problem with gas sitting in a closed tank for several years either.
Anything older than 3 or 4 months with the newer fuel is junk, even with stabilizer in it...for the sake of $50 in questionable fuel, it's a small investment to start fresh and not have to worry.
Corvette Store
Engine has been sitting 14 months. Has not turned over... Pre-Oil Question?
Working with limited time and limited budget. The car is still on the Race Ramps/Jack(Front) and Jack stands (Rear). Yes, I do miss driving the car! 
Anything older than 3 or 4 months with the newer fuel is junk, even with stabilizer in it...for the sake of $50 in questionable fuel, it's a small investment to start fresh and not have to worry.
