Jimi Lane

Looks like I now have to replace a rear wheel bearing hub. I've got the shop manuals, and found one for $156 at Carquest. Anyone got any tips on this job to make it easier?????? Those bolts on the back are going to be tough. doesn't appear that I will need to take the shaft loose though.

Thanks,
Jim

Bob86ZZ4

I followed the directions in my Haynes (not noted for being a very good manual) and it went just fine for me. It was quite a while ago so I don't remember anything to pass on to you, sorry.

Bluevette85

Do a search in the archives and you will find many posts on this subject. You will need a long strong Torx bit (T-55?) to remove the wheel hub bolts. People recommended a set they sell at Autozone and said other brands like Craftsman weren't strong enough. I'm replacing the hubs also but got them at PepBoys because they were the only ones to offer a lifetime warranty.
While your at it, check the u-joints and bushings.

Aggravated4life

Other tips...rent or get a 36MM axle socket to remove the large nut off the spindle.
Youll need new cotter pins too for there.

Also,if you dont have power tools,get the longest breaker bar you can get.I have both 12 and 24 inch and they come in handy to free the torx bolts.Misc extensions are a plus as well.
Problem with the shaft on,sometimes,and doing it on the garge floor on jack stands,the breaker bar will either touch the suspension or the floor making it a bit difficult to get the 3 torx bolts off the back.
Really not a hard job though if the bolts come off with little force.Mine were stuck on there tight and took me a while to finally get them loose.
:)

No Go

I run Pep Boys bearings too. Lifetime warranty which I've already used! They're great!

:)

ittlfly

I would suggest that the day/ night before, spray the torx bolts down with WD ,Liquid Wrench or someother peneitrant to help free up them up. :yesnod:

thedevl

I just did this myself. Did the u-joints while I was in there. What I did to get the torx bolts out was to heat the bolts with a torch, not a lot but 30 or 40 seconds, heated all three at once, waited about 2 minutes, and removed them with normal effort. Don't forget they may be hot when you get them out.


Flynn :reddevil

CFI-EFI

What worked for me was...With a 6" extension on a 1/2" impact wrench, I was able to get to all of the T55 bolts without removing anything off of the car. The extension provided just enough "wobble" to fit the socket(?) into the head of the bolts. Good luck.

Jim-K

I hope i didn't screw up but I put blue locktite (semi perm) when reinstalling the hubs. Also put red locktite on the caliper bolts. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I lost a wheel once on the highway. I was lucky though since i had traction bars and they acted like a ski and prevented too much damage. Never did find the wheel though...

Guest

Doing the bearings is a good time to get everthing else, bushings, pads, park brake, etc. I used the 36MM socket and the Torx, wasn't that bad a deal. Found a guy selling "in the box" rear bearings on Ebay, got a great deal at about $60 each I think.

ittlfly

At $60....take all of them you can get!