Changing 1992 LT1 Spark Plug Wires
03-04-2010, 10:12 PM
#1
5th Gear
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2010
Location: Taunton MA
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Changing 1992 LT1 Spark Plug Wires
I need suggestions on how to change the spark plug wires on the right bank of my 1992 LT1. Is it possible to do without disassembling the engine?
03-05-2010, 11:50 AM
#2
I assume you mean the Drivers side because changing the wireson the passenger side is easy.
You will get several different opinions on how to do this, I can only tell you what worked for me.
Disconnect the battery - post
Remove the serpentine belt
Then...unbolt the ASR module from the inner fender well and move it out of the way. Then disconnect thealternator and remove it.Unbolt the air conditioner and lay it out of the way. You don't need to disconnect the hoses. Just lay it on the radiator.
You will then need a puller to remove the pully from the power steering pump. Unbolt the Power stering pump and slide it forward. This will now give you complete access to the wires.
The problem is that the wires run between the PS pump and ps pump bracket. IT's difficult to get to the wires without this step Good luck
You will get several different opinions on how to do this, I can only tell you what worked for me.
Disconnect the battery - post
Remove the serpentine belt
Then...unbolt the ASR module from the inner fender well and move it out of the way. Then disconnect thealternator and remove it.Unbolt the air conditioner and lay it out of the way. You don't need to disconnect the hoses. Just lay it on the radiator.
You will then need a puller to remove the pully from the power steering pump. Unbolt the Power stering pump and slide it forward. This will now give you complete access to the wires.
The problem is that the wires run between the PS pump and ps pump bracket. IT's difficult to get to the wires without this step Good luck
03-05-2010, 01:08 PM
#3
Drifting
Just a tip to speed up the job, leave the power steering pump in place - then CUT the ignition wires going behind that bracket. When installing the new wires go UNDER that bracket. Remember that the factory did it their way to make it easier on the assembly line - once the engine is already in the car there is no reason to duplicate the factory routing.
Thomas
Thomas
03-05-2010, 01:38 PM
#4
I didn't find it all the difficult by having the front end of the car up on stands and accessing the connections on the opti from beneath the car. I certainly did not touch the alternator or a/c compressor on my 94. I may have unbolted and moved the ASR out of the way.
03-05-2010, 01:49 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
I just did mine and I did it EXACTLY the same way that BobRR3 did. It's not going to be easy any other way. I would NOT however recommend cutting the factory wiring harness - especially under the hood!
The following users liked this post:
Leedawg007 (08-17-2022)
03-05-2010, 02:54 PM
#6
Drifting
The Internet loses and sometimes isnt clear. To be clear: I am NOT advocating cutting an engine wiring harness - I AM advocating cutting the factory ignition wires only where they snake between the power steering pump and the block on an LT1, this makes for a speedier job of removal and eliminates having to do anything with the power steering pump on an LT1. If you are at all nervous about getting the firing order correct, then by all means take the long road and replace only one wire at a time.
Thomas
Thomas
03-05-2010, 03:02 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
When I did mine a couple years ago I did not cut the old plug wires and I did NOT remove the power steering pump.
The new wires routed the same way as the stock wires, just took patience. And the car was on jackstands.
The new wires routed the same way as the stock wires, just took patience. And the car was on jackstands.
03-05-2010, 03:40 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
The Performance Tool p/s pulley installer/puller is # WC-87022, available at Summit, PepBoys,etc. Almost a "must have" if you own an LT1. $24.00
As stated, there's a bunch of ways.
I use jackstands and pull the wheels, easier on your back.
I also pull the fenderwells, it makes it much easier and takes 5 minutes.
Pulling the pass side fenderwell is also a good way to get to the top fitting on the fuel filter.
As stated, there's a bunch of ways.
I use jackstands and pull the wheels, easier on your back.
I also pull the fenderwells, it makes it much easier and takes 5 minutes.
Pulling the pass side fenderwell is also a good way to get to the top fitting on the fuel filter.
03-05-2010, 04:24 PM
#9
Drifting
Okay, so there you have it, apparently the '92 LT1 has a little more room where the stock ignition wires go between the ps pump and the block than on my '95. As suggested, just be patient and take your time.
Thomas
Thomas
03-05-2010, 08:59 PM
#11
Advanced
Member Since: Jan 2010
Location: Erie PA
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did mine about a week ago...also a 92. Took some time (about 3 hours). I did it over two nights. I didnt have to remove anything other than the inner fender pieces on the drivers side. I bought a extension kit..that had different lengths and a 90. I can say that I used just about all of them during this. Seemed like each plug took a different configuration of extensions. A tip I got off here for the passenger side was to lay across the engine (from the drivers side to the passengers) when putting them back in on the passenger side. It is a test of patience but in my case they quoted me 185 at the dealership...
03-11-2010, 03:33 AM
#13
Le Mans Master
What am I getting into..... I've done a bottom end rebuild, in the car, start to finish (pull car in, pull car out...new rings, bearings, hg) in 5 hours on the other cars I build....oh god. Granted that would've taken me a week when I first started, but...damn. I these cars have the same potential shortcuts...or this is gonna suck.
