alternator rebuild kit for '91
#1
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alternator rebuild kit for '91
I've searched high and low... but can't find one. Some places sell the parts (brushes, rectifier, regulator, bearning), but the cost of the 4 parts is more than a new/rebuild one would cost. Whats the deal? Dont they sell kits for a '91? Any idea where to get one?
Howdo
Howdo
#2
Race Director
I did not look but this place has about as many parts as anyone.
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/altparts.html
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/altparts.html
#3
Le Mans Master
#4
Le Mans Master
When my alternator seized,i got a brand new chrome 105 amp alt,installed it and its running great,i rebuilt my stock one,so i have a spare ! I bought it from http://myworld.ebay.com/billh6800
#5
Le Mans Master
I've rebuilt many of the older (C2, C3 and Ford) alternators over the years, but just rebuilt my first new style alternator (in fact a '91) a while back. These things are a pain in comparison. The bearings like to freeze on the shaft and can be very difficult to get off without a press and some care to keep from damaging the rotor.
We have a local rebuilder in our town that is a wealth of information and very quick to show you the tricks he's learned over the years. I usually just take a problem to him and he'll show me how to get something apart without damaging it and sells me the bearings and brushes when I need them. He's pressed out the old bushing and pressed in the new ones on many a starter for me at no cost. If you have a local rebuilder like this it's always good to become friends, it can save you lots of money and aggravation.
Good luck... GUSTO
#6
Normally rebuilding an alternator should not require a rectifier. The rectifier is certainly going to be the most expensive component. Most good auto parts stores should carry the bearings and brushes or be able to order them for you in a few days. If you do need a rectifier, you may well be better off just getting a rebuilt alternator from a reliable rebuilder.
I've rebuilt many of the older (C2, C3 and Ford) alternators over the years, but just rebuilt my first new style alternator (in fact a '91) a while back. These things are a pain in comparison. The bearings like to freeze on the shaft and can be very difficult to get off without a press and some care to keep from damaging the rotor.
We have a local rebuilder in our town that is a wealth of information and very quick to show you the tricks he's learned over the years. I usually just take a problem to him and he'll show me how to get something apart without damaging it and sells me the bearings and brushes when I need them. He's pressed out the old bushing and pressed in the new ones on many a starter for me at no cost. If you have a local rebuilder like this it's always good to become friends, it can save you lots of money and aggravation.
Good luck... GUSTO
I've rebuilt many of the older (C2, C3 and Ford) alternators over the years, but just rebuilt my first new style alternator (in fact a '91) a while back. These things are a pain in comparison. The bearings like to freeze on the shaft and can be very difficult to get off without a press and some care to keep from damaging the rotor.
We have a local rebuilder in our town that is a wealth of information and very quick to show you the tricks he's learned over the years. I usually just take a problem to him and he'll show me how to get something apart without damaging it and sells me the bearings and brushes when I need them. He's pressed out the old bushing and pressed in the new ones on many a starter for me at no cost. If you have a local rebuilder like this it's always good to become friends, it can save you lots of money and aggravation.
Good luck... GUSTO
On my 89 a couple of years ago, one day I noticed the rear bearing was tore apart and the shaft was just floating around while the engine was turning. I replaced that bearing myself. Then when I was at Autozone, had them test the alternator. And it turned out it was bad. So, I dropped it off at the local alternator/starter rebuild shop. Don't really know what was wrong with it.
#7
Le Mans Master
How would you know if the rectifier is bad?
On my 89 a couple of years ago, one day I noticed the rear bearing was tore apart and the shaft was just floating around while the engine was turning. I replaced that bearing myself. Then when I was at Autozone, had them test the alternator. And it turned out it was bad. So, I dropped it off at the local alternator/starter rebuild shop. Don't really know what was wrong with it.
On my 89 a couple of years ago, one day I noticed the rear bearing was tore apart and the shaft was just floating around while the engine was turning. I replaced that bearing myself. Then when I was at Autozone, had them test the alternator. And it turned out it was bad. So, I dropped it off at the local alternator/starter rebuild shop. Don't really know what was wrong with it.
The rotor in an alternator, (starter and generator as well for that matter) spins so close to the field/stator that if the bearing (bushing in most early generators) actually goes bad, the rotor will rub against the stator and can easily damage one or the other. This can prevent the alternator from working even if the rectifier is not damaged. Rectifiers do fail, after all it's little more than a few diodes arranged to convert AC electricity into DC electricity. If a diode fails the alternator will put out AC electricity and it will no longer perform as designed.
The secret is to replace the bearings and brushes at the first hint of noise before the bearings actually fail. On the early alternators which were relatively easy to rebuild, I would replace the bearings and brushes at around 70k as a preventative measure. The new ones are more of a pain and I'm inclined to wait for the noise of a failing bearing.
Good luck... GUSTO
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found some kits
I found 2 kits for rebuilding ( i found out I have cs130 alternator):
1) on ebay ($31). the kit includes the regulator, rectifier, brushes and 2 bearings.
2) alternatorparts.com ($39). same parts as above except no regulator. i talked to this guy and he said the regulator never fails and isnt usually a part of a rebuilt kit.
the $31 ebay one scares me a little, because the price is so low, i wonder about the quality.
Gusto, thanks for the tips about the press fit of the bearings and finding a good local shop.
howdo
1) on ebay ($31). the kit includes the regulator, rectifier, brushes and 2 bearings.
2) alternatorparts.com ($39). same parts as above except no regulator. i talked to this guy and he said the regulator never fails and isnt usually a part of a rebuilt kit.
the $31 ebay one scares me a little, because the price is so low, i wonder about the quality.
Gusto, thanks for the tips about the press fit of the bearings and finding a good local shop.
howdo
#9
Just roll over and buy a lifetime alternator. CS130 is crap. PepBoys lifetime is a NEW aftermarket piece. (at one time they lifetimed a rebuilt) They stand by their stuff. I know, I've gotten 3 replacements out of them in the 15 years I've had my vette.
Best thing you can do for alternator life is a 200degree boost fan switch and or reprogram the main fan on temp. The heat just kills them.
Also a low battery is very hard on them.
JS
Best thing you can do for alternator life is a 200degree boost fan switch and or reprogram the main fan on temp. The heat just kills them.
Also a low battery is very hard on them.
JS
#10
Le Mans Master
The alternator kit is available at Checker for $49. The counter guy can get it for you.
The rectifier comes in two flavors. cheap and barely adequate. The cheap one has small diodes like an S10 alternator.
The biggest problem with rebuilds is the overhaul shops cut the stator wires. Then they crimp a new single wire on the two stator shortened wires.
There is not enough mass to resist heat, and the solder melts on the wires.
The corvette one is like the cadillac one. larger diodes and a bigger heat sink.
I installed a new rear half of the alternator case that I bought from Summit that has cooling fins on the back.
It should take you about 10 minutes to get it off the car, and about 1.5 hours to take it all apart, analyze it, and put the new pieces in.
Getting it apart , you need a soldering iron. You unsolder the stator wires where they exit the case under the black plastic cover. If you are unsoldering a single wire, you might as well stop and go to a wrecking yard and pick through alternators till you find one without the cut stator wires.
I got one from a Buick, and it has lasted 2 summers. You can just take it apart, and pop the Buick back half onto your corvette one, and when it breaks, you can buy a rebuild kit.
The rectifier comes in two flavors. cheap and barely adequate. The cheap one has small diodes like an S10 alternator.
The biggest problem with rebuilds is the overhaul shops cut the stator wires. Then they crimp a new single wire on the two stator shortened wires.
There is not enough mass to resist heat, and the solder melts on the wires.
The corvette one is like the cadillac one. larger diodes and a bigger heat sink.
I installed a new rear half of the alternator case that I bought from Summit that has cooling fins on the back.
It should take you about 10 minutes to get it off the car, and about 1.5 hours to take it all apart, analyze it, and put the new pieces in.
Getting it apart , you need a soldering iron. You unsolder the stator wires where they exit the case under the black plastic cover. If you are unsoldering a single wire, you might as well stop and go to a wrecking yard and pick through alternators till you find one without the cut stator wires.
I got one from a Buick, and it has lasted 2 summers. You can just take it apart, and pop the Buick back half onto your corvette one, and when it breaks, you can buy a rebuild kit.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; 09-17-2009 at 11:23 PM.