Have any of you tried to retight your interior ? how get rid of most of the rattles ?
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Have any of you tried to retight your interior ? how get rid of most of the rattles ?
i took a ride on a '08 350z yesterday and i really liked how tight it is (i know its a new car) and i would like to get rid of every shake and rattle of my interior,my top is rattling a lot this days and well,the other interior plastic trims and parts are making its job also,is there a trick or something i can do to try to achieve the "new car ride" feel on my 87?
I know we have a stiff suspension (i have Z52) somehow but i would like to tight everybolt to get rid of all the noises,at least try.-
Have any of you tried ?
I know we have a stiff suspension (i have Z52) somehow but i would like to tight everybolt to get rid of all the noises,at least try.-
Have any of you tried ?
#2
Rattles and Squeeks
Later C4's had small pieces of Velcro between surfaces of plastic (or fake leather) interior parts that contact each other. My '95 has a few spots where the edge of the Velcro is visible; like where the dash meets the windshield pillar. Only the nappy side of the Velcro is used, not the 'hook' side. And it was likely placed there during assembly with the back side of the Velcro having contact cement (glue). But you could shove some into cracks with a thin instrument like a finger nail file, dull knife, etc. Each Velcro piece 1/4"X1" or so and pushed in so as to be out of sight.
This won't do anything for the chassis noise but should quiet the 'leather' squeeks inside. Pushing on the parts should reveal those making the most noise.
This won't do anything for the chassis noise but should quiet the 'leather' squeeks inside. Pushing on the parts should reveal those making the most noise.
#3
Le Mans Master
Later C4's had small pieces of Velcro between surfaces of plastic (or fake leather) interior parts that contact each other. My '95 has a few spots where the edge of the Velcro is visible; like where the dash meets the windshield pillar. Only the nappy side of the Velcro is used, not the 'hook' side. And it was likely placed there during assembly with the back side of the Velcro having contact cement (glue). But you could shove some into cracks with a thin instrument like a finger nail file, dull knife, etc. Each Velcro piece 1/4"X1" or so and pushed in so as to be out of sight.
This won't do anything for the chassis noise but should quiet the 'leather' squeeks inside. Pushing on the parts should reveal those making the most noise.
This won't do anything for the chassis noise but should quiet the 'leather' squeeks inside. Pushing on the parts should reveal those making the most noise.
#4
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#5
Team Owner
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Co-winner 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
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try re-tighten every little screw around. These cars are 13~25 years old. If you have broken plastic, buy epoxy and get them fix. Ensure you do it fast, it dries fast.
#6
Burning Brakes
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My '84 had a bunch of rattles and I figured "hey its an old car," but I tightened every screw that I could reach and, Presto! I sounds like a new car. Very quiet inside now, and it only took 15 minutes!
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#8
Drifting
My 85 makes a metallic "tinkle" noise (like 2 wrenches lightly smacked together) when going over cracks, etc in the road, it seems to be coming from the suspension somewhere. It is not the exhaust, as I have gone through great pains to make sure it is tight. I think my old 82 TA used to make the same noise. Anybody have any ideas? Not to hijack Sammies thread or anything, but that noise drives me insane.
#9
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '05
Upon advice from others on this forum, I have put Velcro everywhere I could think of (dash panels, rear area trim, halo panels, sill panels, etc.). It works great where it fits, The only problem I have had is that the adhesive melts in the sun's heat, so be careful about that. I have also used UHMW-PE tape in the tight spots (between the dash panels and over every place where a screw goes in behind a panel). I don't know how to get this stuff commercially, I knew of its properties (pressure sensitive tape with a slippery surface) and asked for a sample from an industrial supplier. Right now I am pretty satisfied with the noise situation in the interior, but I had to take out every panel and figure out how it could contribute to the racket. One of the best finds was the contact points between the top dash pad and the windshield pillar trim. One of the worst things I did was adding the marketed targa silencing pads. I think they contributed to the demise of my plexi top. It is cracked right around one of them.
Of course this campaign included adding sound deadener under the carpet and inside the rear compartments. I'll get the doors next.
Oh yeah, and I had a tinkling sound that I couldn't find for a long time. It turned out to be pieces of the cat that had broken off and were dancing around in the rear Y-pipe.
It takes time and effort, but it is rewarding. Good luck with it.
Of course this campaign included adding sound deadener under the carpet and inside the rear compartments. I'll get the doors next.
Oh yeah, and I had a tinkling sound that I couldn't find for a long time. It turned out to be pieces of the cat that had broken off and were dancing around in the rear Y-pipe.
It takes time and effort, but it is rewarding. Good luck with it.
#10
Drifting
Well, I discovered what my noise was today, after 14 years I am actually running out of stuff to fix and decided to hunt it down. My driver side front shock is broke in two! You cannot see it, as the top bell of the shock covers the shaft. Every time I hit a bump, the bell gets rung. My car is a Z51 and came stock with Bilsteins. The PO told me he had them replaced due to the stiffness of the ride, I am unsure of what they are right now. What would you guys think would be a good replacement that might soften up the ride a little? I am assuming they would need valving that somewhat matches the mongo spring rates, but I hate the "heads or tails" feeling when I roll over loose change. Of course, price is a consideration.
#11
Instructor
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I found UHMW in a tape form at a place called Woodcraft.They call it Slick Strips. 3/4 inch wide by 19' is around $7.99. Woodcraft is a woodworker's specialty store. They have stores all around the country. There may be one near you.
#12
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
hi xphnmn
weird that you bumped this thread , i was thinking on this one two days ago...
any tips will be greatly appreciated !
i've been watching the anti squeak kit on midamerica :
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-1-0-762.html
any of you using it ? might be a good start !
// edit, i remember that i read that this can ruin your weatherstrip,there was a thread about how to correctly adjust your top to get rid of the rattles and squeaks , any links ???
weird that you bumped this thread , i was thinking on this one two days ago...
any tips will be greatly appreciated !
i've been watching the anti squeak kit on midamerica :
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-1-0-762.html
any of you using it ? might be a good start !
// edit, i remember that i read that this can ruin your weatherstrip,there was a thread about how to correctly adjust your top to get rid of the rattles and squeaks , any links ???
Last edited by Calderone; 10-02-2010 at 06:58 PM.
#13
#14
Race Director
Some guys that have replaced the heater core don't get it all back together exactly like it came apart. Screws get lost or plastic mounting tabs get broken all lead to squeaks and rattles. Fix everything else first, then go for the dash. I still have the original heater core and my dash area is still quiet. 92 and up seem to be rattle free or at least better than earlier ones. After I installed a cross bar and camber braces, my vert is very tight.
#16
Burning Brakes
here ya go...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...cs-no-56k.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...cs-no-56k.html
The one thing I WOULD like to do is put some heat-reflective material around the tunnel. I think you could bake bread inside the console on a hot day. Is there way to pull just the console to expose the tunnel underneath without stripping out all the carpeting?
#17
Racer
I just removed my entire interior and put in the madvette insulation kit and new carpet in the car.
I also bought a roll of felt tape online and felted any plastic on plastic or metal surfaces.
I also bought a new interior screw kit just to make sure every screw is the correct one
it made a huge difference. It was hours of work but it was worth it.
I also have a DRM roll bar and R&D racing cross brace that i haven't installed yet but when these parts are on it will eliminate chassis flex and really keep everything from moving.
I also bought a roll of felt tape online and felted any plastic on plastic or metal surfaces.
I also bought a new interior screw kit just to make sure every screw is the correct one
it made a huge difference. It was hours of work but it was worth it.
I also have a DRM roll bar and R&D racing cross brace that i haven't installed yet but when these parts are on it will eliminate chassis flex and really keep everything from moving.
#18
Former Vendor
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I just removed my entire interior and put in the madvette insulation kit and new carpet in the car.
I also bought a roll of felt tape online and felted any plastic on plastic or metal surfaces.
I also bought a new interior screw kit just to make sure every screw is the correct one
it made a huge difference. It was hours of work but it was worth it.
I also have a DRM roll bar and R&D racing cross brace that i haven't installed yet but when these parts are on it will eliminate chassis flex and really keep everything from moving.
I also bought a roll of felt tape online and felted any plastic on plastic or metal surfaces.
I also bought a new interior screw kit just to make sure every screw is the correct one
it made a huge difference. It was hours of work but it was worth it.
I also have a DRM roll bar and R&D racing cross brace that i haven't installed yet but when these parts are on it will eliminate chassis flex and really keep everything from moving.
Thanks for your order...
Tim