calpbs

I have a new fastest 1/8th mile time of 7.66. My 60 ft. time is 1.697.
Any tip less than drag radials or slicks to help reduce the 60 ft time.
It was suggested that I disconnect the fromt sway bar, any suggestions will be welcomed.

engle1147

Those are some very descent #....might want to remove the rear shocks for a pass and see if that helps.

M.J.L.

Higher stall TC and gears.

rodj

Highly dangerous; have you ever driven with no shocks? Totally un-controllable if you get any bounce going

If you are getting that time on street tires you are doing well.
What engine , stall , gears?
Disconnecting the front bar does allow the front to lift better giving better weight transfer

engle1147

The OP said "any suggestions will be welcomed"
I've done it at the track (most tracks are very flat) and had no problems with excessive bounce or control issues but every car is different...the hook is better because of the quick squat/weight transfer factor.

The OP has a 383 motor and higher stall already so it seems he is running out of options other than the slicks or weight reduction efforts.

383vett

Disconnect the front sway bar and change to 90/10 drag shocks up front (they're cheap and easy to do). Do not disconnect the rear shocks. The car might have too much squat at launch and might make it uncontrollable down the track. Tracks are not all level. They often have bumps or expansion cracks where the concrete meets the asphalt. Set the rear camber to zero to get more tire contact.



I'm cheating, I've got a 12 bolt.
I

calpbs

My set up is a 11:1 383 built strong, 3600 TCS stall, Professional built 700r4 and 3:73 gears in my dana 36. I also have newly installed energy suspension bushings, KYB shocks, all new suspension, ball joints, bearings tie rod ends rack etc. I also have the lowering block on the front, and longer bolts on the rear. ZR1 rims with 315-35-17's on the rear. I dont want to break the dana 36, my plan is to upgrade to a dana 44 then I will get drag radials or slicks. every bit I take off the launch I put back greater on the fat end.

steve40th

Rear end alignment is very important. Our Vettes tend to go negative on camber when launching and the tires toe out.
It was recommended to me to have shocks set on stiff as possible(rear), stiff spring (ZO7), disconnect front sway bar, go Positive 1 degree camber in rear, and Zero toe in rear. If all suspension pieces are good, you should get into the 1.5 60' easily.
Higher stall converter helps significantly as well as stickier tires.

calpbs

sounds like the most reasonable options are to disconnect the front sway bar, drag shocks and new alignment specs. Has anyone made a quick disconnect for the swaybar similar to rock crawler type jeeps? I am sure I can figure something out. Will some of the double adjustable shocks go 90/10? if so would love some recommendations. If I get close to a 1.50 60ft time them my present set up should be in the 7.40's possibly 7.30's. Then I have to do a roll bar. That would be awesome.

rssshen vette

We have somewhat same set up. (See Sig) I'm running the stock torque converter. I have dana 36 with 3:73's on my car with BFG's drag radials on my 85 stock 16" wheels. If you're not running DR... you need to get a set. You'll certinly be in the mid to low 1.6 60' range.

farscape1a

i just have a question. how are both of you running with a dana 36 with times like that? i thought the diff would have detonated with that kind of power. especially running drag radials... i plan on running a 383 making about 500 hp. would a dana 36 handle that?

383vett

You will blow up your dana 36 before you get close to 1.5 second 60' times. Better to change to a 44 before it breaks.

rssshen vette

I'm not making 500 rwhp so that's one factor... the other factor is my launch is around 12-1500rpm. I don't have a high stall so that helps in not turning my dana 36 into chiclets.

pologreen1

Ihave seen them take a fair amount of gear, just not with 500hp

aminnich

Are you racing at Brainerd? I have been running at Paradise, until I got laid off that is.

If you are interested I have a set of almost new Nitto 555Rs, 315/35/17 mounted and balanced on new black ZR! replica wheels. For sale, but not cheap. PM me if interested.

farscape1a

i'm not going to be making 500 rwhp. it's going to be around 425 - 450 rwhp. would the D36 would give it up under that too? i want to run an auto because i can't shift that fast or that well, but i don't have the money for a D44...

calpbs

I am not sure what my HP numbers are but I launch at 2400 to 2500 rpms but I dont kill the throttle pedal I just mat it. I am afraid a violent dead hook will kill the dana 36 so I am just trying simple little things. I just installed a B&M pro stick because I spend so much time concentrating on the shift I sometimes miss the shift light. If the weather is agreeable I will run this Friday Night at brainerd. With the new shifter I can better shift at key RPMs and possibly pick up ET that way. I have several modifications planned for this season. I am very happy with the start I am having.

farscape1a

so no matter what, i'd be rolling the dice every time i get on the loud pedal. oh well. the project is still many years away, so i still have time to ponder...

calpbs

There is no sure thing. My car is a purpose built street hot rod designed to run in all aplications, drag, road race hill climb, etc... I have been looking for a trade or a deal on a dana 44 but until then I am living on the edge. Three seasons on my Dana 36 with many many launches. I have a 3:73 gear in it the whole time. I have not run soft tires yet, I run some sumitos at 18 psi and they break loose if the track is not prepped well. I have been told that if the tires will spin the rear will live. I have seen some stiffening options for the dana 36 but if I break I will go to the Dana 44. I like living on the edge.

383vett

What are you running in the quarter?