fc_soldier

After disconnecting the Radiator, fuel system, exhaust from manifolds, tranny connections and housing, motor mounts, and pulling the wire harness back. Is there anything hidden that I need to be careful about. IE Ground wires that are hard to see?
Do I have to remove the accessories? If so which ones?
Should I do the rear main seal? 49,000 miles
Any other import seals I should hit up?

Basically I'd like to hear some lessons learned.

Im using a happy hooker to remove engine.

96GS#007

Don't need to remove the motor mounts, just the single nut on each stud that passes thru the diagonal brace that runs from the frame rail to the crossmemeber.

Need to remove the alternator and the a/c compressor needs to be moved aside.

Some people remove the ps pump from the engine in order to leave the ps system intact. I disconnect the lines to the pump and the reservoir and leave it all connected to the engine. 6 of one, half dozen of the other.

There are a bundle of ground wires connected via a bolt to the driver's side of the block above the oil filter. There are several other grounds that are held in place via one of the transmission to engine block bolts (also on driver's side).

I'd do all the timing cover seals at a minimum. Everything else kind of depends on what it looks like. If the rear main looks fine, I'd leave it alone. Ditto the oil pan gasket (although this is clearly the easiest time to change it!).

Watch the windshield wiper motor when pull the engine.

fc_soldier

Yeah thats what I meant... I didn't mean take the motor mount off I typed without thinking about it. Speaking of motor mounts is there a poly bushing we can get?

I just remember when I pulled my T/A (1985) a bunch of ground wires.
Thanks for the reply it just gives me more confidence. I ordered a rear main just in case and I alread ordered both the timing cover and oil pan so it will be done.

Thanks alot you have been very helpful to me. Im so close Ill buy you a beer sometime.

If anyone else has inputs please add on.

JAKE

Well, it seems that you're already past this point, but I left the exhaust manifolds bolted to the heads, left the intake manifold, fuel rails, injectors and valve covers on as well as flex-plate, spark plugs and wires, Opti, damper, hub, radiator, shroud and wiper motor.

Can't remember specifically about the water pump but I believe I left it on too.

Removed the alternator, starter and P/S pump and set the A/C compressor to the side. Removed the idler pulley and I also completely removed the exhaust from under the car to give me more working room while on my back, underneath. Room to align and bolt on the block/trans during re-install.

Yes, lots of ground wires on the driver's side rear of the block area.

Hardest parts for me was the top, passenger side trans to block bolt and reconnecing one 02 plug on the passenger side.

Jake

96GS#007

When are you pulling the engine? I may be able to sync up my schedule and give you a hand if you want.

fc_soldier

I started yesterday but I only go to put a few hours in. IM going to be at it again tonight. Im going to get everything disconnect like you said and Jake. I could always use the extra eyes and help. Take a look at the thread in the pac. north west forum. We are going to get together for some work on a c5. But Let me know if you wanna lend a hand that would be great.

TravisD

Watch the oil pressure/temp sensors a the back of the intake/block. I managed to snap one of 'em off when pulling my '96 LT4 motor. That was a year ago. Hopefully have the process reversed soon!

I pulled the trans, exhaust (downpipe/cats, cat-back), alternator, and moved the AC to the side. left the P/S intact, just unbolted the pump.

fc_soldier

1)Im to the point that I have to disconnect the brace on the tail of the tranny. Im having alittle trouble with it. Do I just take the bolts off and knock it off with a rubber hammer? Then I have to do the driveshaft bolts, remove the driveshaft all while tranny is supported at the pan. And then lower the jack, in turn lowering the tranny giving me access to the bolts right?

2) What about the fuel lines I disconnected the fuel rail but at point should I remove the fuel line?

3) Once I have the tranny unbolted is there any other connection to the engine besides the tranny lines and the elec. connectors?

4)Im to the point where I can disconnect the tranny but I shouldn't do so until I have a hoist hooked up correct? Or can I just support the harmonic balancer with a jack and disconnect it completely?

96GS#007

Before you remove the c-beam completely, you need to remove the driveshaft. You'll be in for a treat removing the beam. No matter what you may think while you're under there, it does come out. Consider it a rite of passage

Don't forget to unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate before dropping the tranny and also the shifter linkage.

Once you get to this point and all the electrical connectors are disconnected and the tranny lines are disconnected, you can lower the transmission a bit in order to access the bolts that secure it to the engine block. You'll want to have the engine supported via a wide block of wood and another jack...ie you don't want it to just flop backwards when you pull the transmission away.

There was no need to disconnect any of the fuel lines. With the lines still connected to the fuel rail and injectors the entire assembly can be lifted away from the engine and rested on the windshield (I always bundle it with a towel to provide a bit of cushion).

The harmonic balancer (damper) is on the front of the engine. You do not want to leverage 500lbs of engine with that. Besides, there's nothing to support at the front of the engine since the engine is going to tip backwards towards the firewall. Just put a block of wood under the oil pan with a jack or jackstand and it'll be fine.

To actually get the engine out you'll find it easier, after attaching the hoist, to lower the front of the car away from the engine vs lifting the engine the entire height. I always remove the front wheels just to provide more working room and clearance for the hoist as well.

Btw...if you look to the left of the engine, you can see the fuel rail and the injectors sitting on the towel on the windshield...

fc_soldier

Man you are a godsent. I was just about to post a pic and ask how to get the c-beam out. LoL

I guess Ill go back out to the garage and follow your steps.

I was thinking of a car I did before cause the engine tilted foward when we disconnected it. But I was looking at it and I realized it was going to come backwards.

Thanks alot and make sure you stop by this thread and check if I need any questions answered.

JAKE

So, you're removing the transmission, too!?

I didn't remove mine, other than unbolting it from the engine I left it in place held up with a jackstand.

Jake

fc_soldier

No Im leaving the tranny in I had to take of some parts to gain access to the bolts on the tranny.

fc_soldier

I made some progress I'm hoping to get alot done this weekend.

LD85

Your engine bay looks empty like mine!

Nice work!

96GS#007

Nicely done!

fc_soldier

Thanks now I have to set aside a day for cleanin the engine bay up.

fc_soldier

Should I swap to a 1996 LT4 Knock Sensor? Mine is a LT1 1996.

96GS#007

Knock sensors are the same. The knock module that is located in the PCM is different. If you plan to add roller rockers as part of your build, I would swap in the LT4 module.

fc_soldier

Yeah Im going with the COMP Cams Pro Magnum Roller Rocker Arms 1.6. So I guess Ill buy the knock module.

fc_soldier

Any other sensors i should upgrade or replace? (sensors prone to failure)

Also do I get O2 sims? Im running Longtubes and random tech cats. Or do I put a O2 hole after the cats?