How Dumb is this .. Mounting a supercharger
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Drifting
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How Dumb is this .. Mounting a supercharger
I am toying with the idea of mounting a supercharger on the front cross brace as opposed to engine mounting.
The belt tensioner should take up some of the motor torque affect, and a flexible shaft couplings should handle the rest. This would have a twin shaft support and the pulley would be on this doubly supported shaft . Alignment being pretty straight forward with a more or less standard motor adj. plate?
The complete thought is to have a radiator built that will offer more space on the Driver side, allowing for the PS reservoir to be relocated as well.
To complete this nonsense, I want to locate the A/C condenser and AT oil cooler to the space occupied by the "spare tire". Electric fans cooling both in sheet metal housing? [ need a high pressure air source back there, though?].
The space freed up front would then be occupied by the inter-cooler.
A Twin screw or Centrifugal could be used? Leaning toward the centrifugal.
Thoughts?
TJM
The belt tensioner should take up some of the motor torque affect, and a flexible shaft couplings should handle the rest. This would have a twin shaft support and the pulley would be on this doubly supported shaft . Alignment being pretty straight forward with a more or less standard motor adj. plate?
The complete thought is to have a radiator built that will offer more space on the Driver side, allowing for the PS reservoir to be relocated as well.
To complete this nonsense, I want to locate the A/C condenser and AT oil cooler to the space occupied by the "spare tire". Electric fans cooling both in sheet metal housing? [ need a high pressure air source back there, though?].
The space freed up front would then be occupied by the inter-cooler.
A Twin screw or Centrifugal could be used? Leaning toward the centrifugal.
Thoughts?
TJM
#3
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You could be right Sir?
But the traffic there is very light, not so here.
And........ we have a couple threads going on this sort of subject, here.
So............ I shall wait and see?
TJM
PS: No thoughts on the works?
#4
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Bad idea.
You never keep the belt tight, think about the flexible engine mounts, even if you did the second the engine flexed you'd throw the belt.
Traffic is light in the FI section, but that's because they get straight to the point.
You never keep the belt tight, think about the flexible engine mounts, even if you did the second the engine flexed you'd throw the belt.
Traffic is light in the FI section, but that's because they get straight to the point.
#6
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Thank you
If I was bright enough to know how to move it I would?
TJM
#7
Safety Car
Details on what you are trying to do may aid in the suggested solution. There are some folks in the FI area that have adapted blowers to their vettes that were never intended for the C4 chassis.
Aaron
Aaron
#8
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Seen that on an LT1.
Brackets are so bulky and fuss up the front of the motor.
I fret about all that "wagging steel mass" hanging out there too?
TJM
#10
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I think the main reason that this is a bad idea is that it is unnecessary. There are a lot of C4's out there with conventional blowers on them that never have any problems - mine included. My Procharger mounts on the drivers side and is very stable. And my intercooler fits up fromt without moving anything. I guess my point is why overcomplicate something that is not that complicated?
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I think the main reason that this is a bad idea is that it is unnecessary. There are a lot of C4's out there with conventional blowers on them that never have any problems - mine included. My Procharger mounts on the drivers side and is very stable. And my intercooler fits up fromt without moving anything. I guess my point is why overcomplicate something that is not that complicated?
An Obsession to be different?
Hell, I'm still trying to figure out how to move the tread?
TJM
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#15
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#16
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Yup.
But a head unit is a fraction of the "kit" price.
Everything else is commercially available through non-automotive sources.same stuff, sometimes better.
But this is about the coolest air in the straightest line.
A Lysholm twin screw is $750 rebuilt and warranted, and $1,200 new.
The kit is $7,000.00 So what do you get?
Bolt on convenience I think. Which is OK, unless you are a tinkerer?
TJM
But a head unit is a fraction of the "kit" price.
Everything else is commercially available through non-automotive sources.same stuff, sometimes better.
But this is about the coolest air in the straightest line.
A Lysholm twin screw is $750 rebuilt and warranted, and $1,200 new.
The kit is $7,000.00 So what do you get?
Bolt on convenience I think. Which is OK, unless you are a tinkerer?
TJM
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#19
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Dumb...round two
Well I tried to move this thread, and I asked for the God’s of the Forum to move for the dummy, but I’m guessing the Moderator’s feel I provide more entertainment value, here?
First I want to clear up the Dumb part:
I just don’t care for the appearance of the bracket mounted Centrifugal units. Call it Personal taste
Issue #2 is the heat. The cooler the better, Slapped next to the block is a rather “hot spot”. [easy, but hot]. Not to mention the heating to the air plumbing.
Issue #3 is the kit piece. 1/2 the cost at least is bracket and plumbing. The heads are fairly inexpensive.
#4 Is the power transfer. This isn’t [ may not be] an issue, an idler pulley with a high speed [12,000rpm rated at 7200 in lbs] universal to the Head unit drive pulley is easy to do, and a pair of torsion bearings offsets the angular momentum of the motor torque over. [ think swing arm on motor cycle]. Those parts are about $350.00 and are bullet proof.
Now #5.. the inter-coolers is a big buck item, because they can charge a lot. Air to Air inter-coolers are common in industry and are the same parts. Just resold and marked up
[ a lot]. There is a large variety, and a little math will get you the right one in the $400 range.
All this puts me back over the brace, with the inlet in front of the radiator plane.
#6 the Air plumbing is now short and pretty direct. Almost a perfect shot to the Throttle Body [ with MAF in the plumbing].
Yes the radiator is expensive, but mine is 20 years old? so…………?
Moving all the other coolers back is a $300.00 cost. Fan and t-stats included. Finding a high pressure air source is still a question? Plenty of low pressure on the bottom side if I can come up with that???.
So install, with the S.C. Head and relief valves, easy plumbing and the inter-cooler is about a $2,500 cost?
Not to mention doing something different, which is fun.
Now,… me being a twerp aside, …any experience that says this won’t work or input of interest???
To really get things stirred, 1.6 ration rockers on the exhaust [ and 8 new springs] take care of the cam issue, pretty close.
Please beat me up?
TJM
First I want to clear up the Dumb part:
I just don’t care for the appearance of the bracket mounted Centrifugal units. Call it Personal taste
Issue #2 is the heat. The cooler the better, Slapped next to the block is a rather “hot spot”. [easy, but hot]. Not to mention the heating to the air plumbing.
Issue #3 is the kit piece. 1/2 the cost at least is bracket and plumbing. The heads are fairly inexpensive.
#4 Is the power transfer. This isn’t [ may not be] an issue, an idler pulley with a high speed [12,000rpm rated at 7200 in lbs] universal to the Head unit drive pulley is easy to do, and a pair of torsion bearings offsets the angular momentum of the motor torque over. [ think swing arm on motor cycle]. Those parts are about $350.00 and are bullet proof.
Now #5.. the inter-coolers is a big buck item, because they can charge a lot. Air to Air inter-coolers are common in industry and are the same parts. Just resold and marked up
[ a lot]. There is a large variety, and a little math will get you the right one in the $400 range.
All this puts me back over the brace, with the inlet in front of the radiator plane.
#6 the Air plumbing is now short and pretty direct. Almost a perfect shot to the Throttle Body [ with MAF in the plumbing].
Yes the radiator is expensive, but mine is 20 years old? so…………?
Moving all the other coolers back is a $300.00 cost. Fan and t-stats included. Finding a high pressure air source is still a question? Plenty of low pressure on the bottom side if I can come up with that???.
So install, with the S.C. Head and relief valves, easy plumbing and the inter-cooler is about a $2,500 cost?
Not to mention doing something different, which is fun.
Now,… me being a twerp aside, …any experience that says this won’t work or input of interest???
To really get things stirred, 1.6 ration rockers on the exhaust [ and 8 new springs] take care of the cam issue, pretty close.
Please beat me up?
TJM
#20
Race Director
Sounds like a STS rear mounted turbo system might be more ideal.Or,You can build your own easily with off shelf turbo parts and mount it all in the rear.The SC idea you have sounds like a whole lot of work.