teufelhund

I've been reading on here and thought that my heads have the 7/16 studs in them. I may be wrong I would like verification before I rip my valve covers off to find that I need different studs to go with my heads. I have a 86E with the iron heads. What is the stock stud size on them? Also with a roller tip I'm assuming I'm going to still need to trim to tabs. If anyone is getting away without having to on the perimeter style heads please let me know.

Thanks,
Merritt

JAKE

The 86E heads have press-in 3/8" studs.

"trim to tabs", not sure what you're referring to but if you're referring to the oil drip tabs, yes. Chances are they'll need to be ground down. Don't try breaking them off or you could end up with a hole in the cover.

Jake

teufelhund

I was trying to say drip tabs.... And great I thought they were at least threaded studs. Can you switch out studs in heads without removing the heads? Or is there a way to make my roller tip rockers work? Is it simply the size of the nuts so I can use the larger stock nuts? Since they are the stock stamped style with a higher ratio and roller tips.

Thanks

65Z01

To make those 7/16" RRs work you would need to take the heads to a machine shop and have new studs pressed in.

Else you need to exchange the current RRs for 3/8" ones.

CFI-EFI

I wrote a big long post before your last post and I lost it. To change stud size the heads would have to come off and be machined for screw in studs. With your stamped rockers all you have to change is the fulcrum ***** and the nuts and you can use your new 7/16" stud 1.6:1 rocker arms on the existing 3/8" studs. Also with the stamped style rocker arm, you may not have to grind on the drippers. If you do, don't take off any more than necessary. Those fulcrum ***** need all the oil they can get.

RACE ON!!!

RACE ON!!!

teufelhund

Thanks, I'll try using my current stock ***** and nuts with the new rockers. I'll keep you posted on if I get extra noise ect. because of this. I will trim the tabs but not remove them like I was going to do and see if that helps. Thanks alot for the help.

JAKE

The best plan is NOT to re-use the *****. Each ball mates to the rocker it ran with and shouldn't be used on a different or new rocker. Same principle as not reusing flat tappet lifters on a different cam OR moving a lifter from the lobe it's been running on.

Another benefit to getting new ***** is you can order the type which have oil grooves in them. GM went to that mod on the BB Chevy engine to address rocker ball galling many years back.

Be sure to lube the ***** well when installing them. I use camshaft assembly lube.

Jake

CFI-EFI

:Iagree:
Physically the old ***** will work, but JAKE is right. You may end up with a shortened parts life. The nuts are self locking and the "self lock" can reduce with age and R&Rs. I think the ***** and nuts are available in kits. They are too cheap to gamble on.

After you have completed the swap, drop the valve covers into place with no gaskets and crank the engine to see if the rockers bounce the valve covers around. I really don't think you have to mess with the drip tabs with the stamped steel rocker arms.

RACE ON!!!

teufelhund

So you recommend I get:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

and

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku



I may go ahead and try a test fit to make sure the arms even work before I go buying new parts. Thanks again for your help.

CFI-EFI

Those are the parts I'm referring to. I'm not sure you won't be able to find them faster and for less at the corner parts store, but those ARE the items. They are the stock parts. The rockers will fit. Except where the push socket is located (closer to the fulcrum) they are the same dimensions as the stock arms.

RACE ON!!!

jim_hewett

Installed narrow body 1.6 rockers(CompCam) w 3/8 studs and definitely had to grind off drip tabs for valve cover fit.(4 center bolt design ) You've got two further options either taller covers or thicker gaskets. Personally I would chg out existing rockers for 3/8" and grind the tabs & use std gaskets.(KISS theory) Of course reassemble w moly grease applied to push rod ends and valves.
Another point TDC each piston per your FSM then do an "engine idling zero back lash adjustment on each valve." The latter is an insurance policy which ensures no valve crash or bad idle. A technique never mentioned in your FSM.

Cheers
Check your 6

hobby0002000

Make sure the push rods dont hit (rub) on the heads when going with 1.6 rocker arm as they(push rods) move in closer to the rocker stud with a 1.6 rocker.

coupeguy2001

Hey Devil Dog, Remember me? I had my pilots pickup the heads from you in San Diego. I bought your aluminum heads for my 57 chevy pickup, and they are sweet. A mild pocket port, new valve job, 89 rocker covers, and it looks like a ZZ4. Well it is a ZZ4 clone.
The truck gets way better gas mileage with the 350 than my old 327 ever did. more torque and HP as well.
Thanks again.
Chris

JAKE

Those are the ***** I was referring to.

I wouldn't run the engine with the new rockers AND the OLD *****. Remember, those two parts mate with each other. Maybe not a big deal, I just wouldn't do it.

Jake

CFI-EFI

With stamped steel rocker arms like teufelhund has??? Also, he doesn't have center bolt valve covers, like you say you did.



So you say to eliminate the rocker arms and add studs? Where? Two sets of studs? He already has ONE set of 3/8" studs. How does that work? How does it run with no rocker arms? The rockers you recommend trading for studs are for 3/8" studs.

RACE ON!!!

jim_hewett

Reread the post "ole salt",...the 4 ctr bolts refers to my 94(he has a perimeter bolt pattern)...and I'm simply suggesting for the guy to return the original 7/16 for 3/8 RR's if in fact he has 3/8 studs, got it?? Lets see...you must be the official bean counter/proof-reader/second guesser gone ballistic!! Slow guys are always confused!

Cheers

CFI-EFI

No need to reread. I got that, and even acknowledged that in what you quoted from my post. And that helps the original poster...HOW???If you are going to quote someone, you ought to see that what you are quoting supports your point. In this case, the quote you chose, demonstrates no need to reread, in fact quite the contrary.



"I'm simple". If you had mentioned that in your first post, I would have better understood and maybe not have responded. But you have posted misleading info, regardless. I read where you suggested "I would chg out existing rockers for 3/8" studs". What does he do with 2 sets of 3/8" studs and no rocker arms?



Do you read much? He didn't buy "RR's". He bought stamped steel rockers for 7/16" studs. The difference is in the nuts and the *****. The stamping is the same. All production SBCs come with 3/8" rocker arm studs.



I haven't second guessed a thing. *I* actually read both his post AND yours. We have way too many incorrect, confusing, and misleading posts on this forum. Some from know nothing do gooders and some from people that don't take the time to read and comprehend the problem. I attributed your's to not having read or comprehended the OPs posts. But maybe you're are right about, "Slow guys are always confused!". That WOULD explain your post.

RACE ON!!!

jim_hewett

Your misc. ramblings validate nothing "ole salt". Have a good life as difficult as it may be for you.

Cheers
Check your 6