schrade

...and ready to bag.

I haven't ohm spec'ed yet; unless one of 'em is WAY off (which isn't likely since it was runnin' fine), all 8 are goin' back in.

28 hours in now, give or take :30.

The intake is in the performance shop, should be ready tomorrow. The lifter valley will see the shop vac tomorrow too

96GS#007

You need to apply liquid teflon to the intake bolt threads upon reassembly or oil will wick up the threads and onto the intake you just cleaned.

Gaskets should be installed dry. Front and rear intake "seals" are RTV. As another poster mentioned, "The Right Stuff" truly is the best RTV to use for the ends.

schrade

Thanks '96........

You think it's not good to give the intake-to-head gaskets a thin film of grease? I did that on the '87 TPI, and I had no problems...



I got the intake back from the shop. They pulled the bolts that I asked them NOT to, but they still feel grit-free, after I had already chased the threads. No damage there I guess. They didn't pull the baffle from underneath, or the PCV valve either

So I went back to the car wash, to get the carbon jam and cleaning residue left inside, and stuck the wand inside all the ports again. I'm glad I did.

Lifter valley clean-up - the worst.

Vacuum the intake ports; close 'em up with paper towels....

geist

Liquid Teflon eh? Guess I need to get some of that. Would that also be good to use on the water pump bolts?

Need to get some The Right Stuff too ... aka The Expensive Stuff. Intake / Valve Cover / Oil Pan gaskets all supposed to be dry I think, but what about the timing cover gasket, is The Right Stuff good to use on the Timing Cover?

schrade

Liquid soap turns to glue when it dries. That's one reason they use it for window tint, and also for mounting tires on a rim, but where there's lots of HEAT, I don't know what happens to the glue - like at the injector O-ring. Maybe it stays gummy and keeps the seal better.

But also ya' gotta' remember, the upper and lower rings do entirely different stuff - upper for gasoline and positive pressure, lower for air vacuum and negative pressure.

96GS#007

Yep, use for the water pump bolts as well. It comes in a tube, Permatex and others sell it. GM sells it as well but as you'd expect the tube is sized for shop use not the DIY'er...ie it'd last most people a life time

96GS#007

There's no reason to apply grease to gaskets.

schrade

I suppose...

I just cannot put stuff together dry. That's how they do it in Detroit, and it's not wrong, I just don't thinks it's best.

Jaguar long ago used to buy auto trannys from Ford for their Jag's. First thing they did was break 'em down, and re-assemble them properly with all the same parts (a few models did get hi-po mod parts).




I'm chasin' bolt holes in the block now. All holes are open underneath, except each end hole, so they'll drain the jam onto a paper towel. I did them the same way I did the intake holes, except for the end holes. Run the bolt thru twice, rinse the bolt in gas, pump some spray lube into the hole.

The end holes needs more spray to blow up out of the hole the jam that's in them. Catch the overflow with a paper towel to stop it from runnin' into the valley.

When cleanin the matin' faces, I highly suggest a toothbrush to clean the debris from the head-to-block joint, at the valley end. If there's any grease jam in there, RTV and a gasket probably won't seal it.

STL94LT1

Maybe that's why Jag's have so many problems and one of the worst resale values in the market.

BrianCunningham

You going to do any upgrades while your in there? or keep it stock?

Just pointing out it would be an excellant time.

schrade

This was 25 years ago.


I haven't decided yet. It's not a DD, so I'm open to suggestions. Cash ain't really a problem either; it's just that everything was workin' fine. Clean burn, good mileage, etc, and I don't need tons of power.

This is chasin' the last corner hole, and halfway through a TOTAL dry fit, no gaskets...

96GS#007

I wouldn't use Jaguar to illustrate quality, especially "long ago".

The end seals are RTV on the LT1/4. Put a little grease on those gaskets and what do you think will happen to that RTV? It won't stick. Now what happens.....leaks at the corners.

You do what you want. In a year (or sooner) you can post about the intake oil leaks.

schrade

The dry fit is done - no gaskets, no hard connections (two weather connectors for electricals snapped at the lock tab), just a few bolts. Everything fit clean, no grit.

I haven't figured how the bracket sits yet by the EGR-to-intake inlet, and I missed a pic of it. Anybody?

C4DC

This help?

schrade

Thanks there C4DC

Your stuff looks as clean as ttx6 too. How do you keep it clean? Is that a LT4?

Got me out of a slight jam there. I couldn't lock down the first 8 bolts, and leave two out in the corner. So says the manuals, about torque sequencing???

At any rate, the total dry fit was good.

Sinking the injectors into the injector ports was tedious. I had plenty of Trans-X on the O-rings, and in the injector port walls. They were still tough, and even after workin' each rail back and forth a little, the didn't sink totally until after drivin' the four rail bolts. Even then, I backed up the bolts a little, then worked the rails again, AND ROTATED THE INJECTOR BODY back and forth a little, just to make sure the O-rings were seated AND NOT BINDING.

The intake seated good. After gettin' it into place, I lifted first the front end of it, dropped it, and then the back end of it - maybe a 1/16", just to even up the RTV.

I put Trans-X on the rubber V/C gaskets, just to soften 'em up, and not install dry. Minor mistake - Trans-X softens rubber, and swells it too. I had to work it to make sure it stayed in the groove because of how much it swelled (that's what makes it good for O-rings).

More pics tomorrow, if anybody wants any more. Sound off.

C4DC

Glad I could help. Yes, I have the LT4, Lots of simple green and rags and it is easy to keep up after that with an occasional clean up. Mine is actually pretty dirty and needs a little tlc to keep it really clean. The sand and dirt really build up in all the crevices under the fuel rails.

schrade

Looks good.

Don't you worry about the opti seal?

schrade

I fired the motor after changin' the oil, cause of the gas leak.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1565722623
(I highly suggest makin' sure your gas lines are SECURELY capped off - 65z01's idea is best I think).

It fired right up, but was stumblin' and the fan came on too. The check engine light fired immediately too, and I was tryin to think of the coolant or fan connector I missed. I barely touched the WP connector puttin' back the serpentine belt. Then I remembered . I turned it off, disconnected the battery, and plugged in the 2 connectors on the air inlet hose. It re-fired smooth as ever.

I got a few wisps of smoke at the block behind #7. Either it's solvent and sludge that didn't run completely off the back of the block. I saw no oil drippin' onto the ex manifold, and am hopin' no harness loom is cookin'.
; It was just a few wisps.

The TPI I did several years ago was a miss cause of the CSI not seated, and one loom was too near the EGR pipe that didn't have the insulatin' sleeve replaced yet.

So it's shut off to see if old jam is just cookin' off. Fingers crossed

schrade

Fired it again, and no smoke. It had to be some buildup on the back of the block.